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  #46  
Old 02-19-2019, 03:09 PM
Howard Klepper Howard Klepper is offline
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The StewMac saw is a rip tooth with no set. The lack of a set tends to make it bind. And you are crosscutting with a rip saw--doable, but not ideal. But the cuts are shallow, which helps with the binding. I used one for years without complaining.

Then I got the Dozuki that LMI sells that takes about a .022" kerf. Ahh. Much easier.

When marking or when sawing with a block or the blade of a square for a guide, you get better accuracy by first putting your cutting tool on the line and bringing the guide to the tool, rather than the other way around.
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  #47  
Old 02-19-2019, 03:16 PM
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Bruce Sexauer Bruce Sexauer is offline
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Here are the pictures I promised earlier today. These are actually of the "Master" template, but except for being Corian rather than aluminum, the clones are very close to identical. I say very close because I have a philosophical issue with saying "identical", which they are as much as possible.

If these don't explain adequately, just say so.













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  #48  
Old 03-04-2019, 07:16 AM
Bonneybear Bonneybear is offline
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Wow, that’s interesting Bruce. I wish I could read all the notes and measurements on it. Why is there and adjusting slide on the pin? Thanks in advance. Mike
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  #49  
Old 03-04-2019, 10:18 AM
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Bruce Sexauer Bruce Sexauer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonneybear View Post
Wow, that’s interesting Bruce. I wish I could read all the notes and measurements on it. Why is there and adjusting slide on the pin? Thanks in advance. Mike
The pin is adjusted to reach to the desired scale length. One side of the template is 24” and the other side is 26”. The lines on the template represent specific scale lengths.

FYI: I have discovered that shipping the Corian version means I have to package it with support pieces lest it be broken. This raises the nuisance level to a high level for me, and since I had never intended to go into business as a lutherie supply house, if anyone wants one of these things they’ll have to pick it up in person. I’d rather build guitars.
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  #50  
Old 03-04-2019, 11:29 AM
ruby50 ruby50 is offline
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Bruce

I guess you don't find it a hassle to line up the fretboard that has already been tapered before fretting. Do you ever have that practice give you trouble?

Ec
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  #51  
Old 03-04-2019, 11:43 AM
tadol tadol is offline
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I think if you were to run a centerline down your tapered board, and use that as your reference for ds taping it to the jig, it would work as well. Bruce leaves the fingerboard square to slot, then lays out his tapers both width and thickness on the neck after gluing it all together, and bandsaws it to essentially finished dimensions. Then he marks his carving layout lines on that, which is essentially where his demo on Sunday started.

I think we got some decent video of that process - hopefully Bruce can find some time to edit it together and get it posted. From bandsawed blank to finish sanded neck, it takes about an hour, using just a spokeshave, a couple dragon rasps, and a shopmade sanding paddle - and a very well trained eye -
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  #52  
Old 03-04-2019, 11:52 AM
ruby50 ruby50 is offline
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My bad - it looked like a tapered board, but you're right, it is not

Ed
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  #53  
Old 03-05-2019, 07:10 AM
Bonneybear Bonneybear is offline
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Oh, ok I get it. The grooves in the aluminum are angled proportionally to get a plethora of diyscale lengths. Ingenious 🤔. The next time I’m driving through (wherever you are) I’ll pick one up. I’m in NJ and TN. Thanks for posted pictures.
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  #54  
Old 03-05-2019, 07:12 AM
Bonneybear Bonneybear is offline
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Petaluma CA
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