Stringing a Classical

[Rosco NZ]

Hi, I have been using the method on the Taylor website with no problems at all and it looks very neat as well.

Rosco

[fongie]

Originally Posted by Jrmusic

Hi all, I always roll my E B A E strings towards the outside of the headstock when I string but I roll the G and D towards the inside of the headstock in order to have the strings as straight through the nut as possible. Basically the wraps roll in the direction that would minimize the angle after passing thru the nut. Anyone else do that? When you see instructions they always seem to tell you to always roll outwards... I am not sure if the string hole through the rollers are staggered on some guitars but on mine they are all centred.

Really? I like to see a picture, do you have one? Very interesting, I have always done the opposite on my steelstring slottheads. They all roll out not in. I use the Taylor method.

[Jrmusic]

Alright, last string change I guess I only rolled the E strings towards the outside, the rest rolled towards the inside of the headstock. I find if I roll all of them towards the outside I especially have issues tuning the wound strings because they will get hung up on the nutslots and "ping" while tuning. I also believe strings should ideally not angle to much after passing through a nut, as a rule.
I suspect this guitar could have had better positioning of the holes in the rollers, so that the strings lined up better.

It is a mid 70`s TARO C-94

[Englishplayer]

Actually, there are ball end strings that sound good on my Taylor, Ej 32 0r Ej34, but the guitar is more of a hybrid than a classic classical . The Ej 32 I think is the one with the black instead of the clear nylon.

That being said, some folks don't approve of the ball end strings. There are several good explanations of good restringing methods on-line, and you can watch people do this on you tube. I've restrung classicals and ukuleles and if you take it one step at a time it isn't as difficult as it looks. Be prepared for the amount of time it takes the strings to hold in tune. Nylon stretches and stretches.

The picture posted by Texas.. above looks like the perfect stringing. Well Done! Mine never look that good! However, they don't need to.

[fongie]

Jr cheers for that, I see what you mean.

English player, cheers mate. You learn something new everyday. I already purchased a Jim Dunlop ballend strings, if it doesn't sound good I will check the other brands which were recommended.

[kats45]

Jimmy's advice to..."buy a bridge bib!!!!!" makes a lot of sense.

What a great idea!

[kats45]

Originally Posted by WaddyT

There is a great instructions on stringing a classical with the correct tie method, which includes melting a little ball on the end of the treble strings to keep top dings from happening with the tie slipping. It's very simple. Also shows the correct way to tie at the machine head end.

Here: http://schrammguitars.com/tutorial.html

and Here:http://schrammguitars.com/stringingmethod.html

Worth passing along to your friends too.

This is great. I didn't think the other example above looked right. Looks messy to me, but schrammguitars.com looks good.

[the.ronin]

Originally Posted by kats45

Jimmy's advice to..."buy a bridge bib!!!!!" makes a lot of sense.

What a great idea!

No offense to the maker of the bridge bib but this is really one of those purchases you can do yourself. As I mentioned earlier, just pick up any sturdy, non abrasive material to make it out of. I picked up a $1.50 piece of leather from Michales (an arts and crafts store – I’d think any will carry it). Cut out a notch the shape of your bridge and you’re done.

I’m not one to shy away from paying a good tool (Stewmac ruler, notched nut gauges, come to mind) but this is one you really don’t need to pay top dollar for.

[Lunargent]

Originally Posted by Jrmusic

Alright, last string change I guess I only rolled the E strings towards the outside, the rest rolled towards the inside of the headstock. I find if I roll all of them towards the outside I especially have issues tuning the wound strings because they will get hung up on the nutslots and "ping" while tuning. I also believe strings should ideally not angle to much after passing through a nut, as a rule.
I suspect this guitar could have had better positioning of the holes in the rollers, so that the strings lined up better.

It is a mid 70`s TARO C-94

Gorgeous headstock, jr! Got any more pics? Only image I could find online had lousy resolution.

[pgilmor]

Originally Posted by WaddyT

There is a great instructions on stringing a classical with the correct tie method, which includes melting a little ball on the end of the treble strings to keep top dings from happening with the tie slipping. It's very simple. Also shows the correct way to tie at the machine head end.

Here: http://schrammguitars.com/tutorial.html

and Here:http://schrammguitars.com/stringingmethod.html

Worth passing along to your friends too.

Can't tell you how well I like this method. Gets in tune and stays there much better/faster than anything else I've tried.

[old iron rider]

This may sound strange, but I tie my EBG strings with three over and under ties. It never slips. The other three just get two. After all the strings are installed, I gently pull up on all the strings. Pre stretching. Not severe.
The final set seems to happen faster using this method. Hope it helps.

[jimmy bookout]

Originally Posted by the.ronin

No offense to the maker of the bridge bib but this is really one of those purchases you can do yourself. As I mentioned earlier, just pick up any sturdy, non abrasive material to make it out of. I picked up a $1.50 piece of leather from Michales (an arts and crafts store – I’d think any will carry it). Cut out a notch the shape of your bridge and you’re done.

I’m not one to shy away from paying a good tool (Stewmac ruler, notched nut gauges, come to mind) but this is one you really don’t need to pay top dollar for.

I should have mentioned that the bridge bib idea is easy enough to replicate on your own. That said, $6.95 is hardly "top dollar".

Jimmy

[state-it]

Originally Posted by the.ronin

I notice that most just wind and snip off the ends. I like to weave mine across starting with the 6th string working my way towards the 1st. Something I did with my ukuleles and brought over to the classical. Difference being that I tie off the 1st string and melt the end into a little ball. First time I did this and did not tie off the 1st string, it came undone. Hasn’t come undone since tying.


(Cordoba C5 which I have since sold.)

I know some use “bridge beads” or little beads that the string ties to – basically a ball at the end. I think there are 12 holed bridges too that allow you to wind each string around twice.

Good Lord. Looks like a teenagers teeth in braces.
Surely any reason for 'underlying' the loose ends is to help prevent slippage, so it should be the top three strings that should be laid out and bound with the wrapped strings

Not that strings slip when tied 'normally' anyway....

[wbajzek]

Originally Posted by WaddyT

There is a great instructions on stringing a classical with the correct tie method, which includes melting a little ball on the end of the treble strings to keep top dings from happening with the tie slipping. It's very simple. Also shows the correct way to tie at the machine head end.

Here: http://schrammguitars.com/tutorial.html

and Here:http://schrammguitars.com/stringingmethod.html

Worth passing along to your friends too.

I use this method, too, except I do it in reverse so the tail ends of the string point towards the floor. I got my suit coat caught on the end of a string once at a gig, and that was my solution.

[Jrmusic]

Here's the entire Taro lunargent.

http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/531144_10151547883278957_1542015081_n.jpg