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John, I love the pictures. The black and white one offers vintage looking details.
I'm glad you are sharing your adventures with us.
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... make a joyful noise ... http://www.mcknightguitars.com AGF MCKNIGHT GUITAR SNIPPETS https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...d.php?t=663228 I'll continue "Doin' Life ... As a Luthier's Wife" McJam = Guitar private event June 21-22, 2024 [email protected] Pre-sign is required and begins now. |
#47
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July 17th Progress!
Got a lot done today. After double checking with Blues Creek and watching John Mayes bend a few sides on DVD I of course did what everyone does…. I picked my favorite parts of each method lol. John Mayes uses 2 blankets and plugs and unplugs the heat. I only have one blanket (which is what many folks use) and I used a on off switch. Blues Creek presses the middle last, Mayes does it first…… I picked a way and went. I found my second side to go 10 times smoother!
It fits the mold perfectish. A little overhang, perfect. I do have a kink? /crack on side 1. I stuffed it with CA glue and moved on. (nice spot for inlay....) Then onto scalloping the Braces! Ok I am removing the transverse brace and replacing it with a non radius’d brace. I was told I would have an impossible time with the neck if I did not change out the brace. I made the replacement with quartersawn Sitka. The grain ran off funny so I corrected the grain angle before shaping. Heres my helper... Look how much flatter the top will be braced properly Then onto my first joining. I read the Rigid Joiner manual. It looked easy. 3 sweeps with scrap then 2 sweeps with the Mahogany back pieces sandwiched together. Wow! No light! Perfect. The backwood was precut an odd shape so I used nails and the straightedge trick for joining. Then I snugged with clamps. Then added weight. Last edited by Kitchen Guitars; 07-18-2009 at 03:50 AM. Reason: Messed up the order |
#48
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Now a back strip.
I found a cool peice of wavey? wood (lace Mahogany?). How to cut a skunk stripe??? I used the straight edge as a guide and found my height .044 on a peice of scrap. 4 moves later I had a perfect line sized for the strip and 2 accent lines. |
#49
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This thread is so interesting to me.
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----------- Frog Level FL18 Yamamoto Y-OM |
#50
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__________________
... make a joyful noise ... http://www.mcknightguitars.com AGF MCKNIGHT GUITAR SNIPPETS https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...d.php?t=663228 I'll continue "Doin' Life ... As a Luthier's Wife" McJam = Guitar private event June 21-22, 2024 [email protected] Pre-sign is required and begins now. |
#51
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it's coming along nicely John!!!!! keep it up!!!!!!!!!!
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#52
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It's an inspiering thread.
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#53
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July 18th More progress
Now the top is a 20’ radius with a flat top end.
It seems my flatness sander drum is ever so slightly, slightly crooked. I will have to learn what to do about that. I made a 3” to 4” hose converter out of a coffee container so I could do much better dust collection. Works perfect. I flatness sanded the back stripe, then into the back. I needed to get it flat BUT next time I will trim the back down as much as possible on the inside. I made some of the less than properly seated B&W strip pull out. Repair was tedious but doable. After supergluing my fingers together twice, it went in perfect. Then with an 80 grit tiny sanding block I brought it down to almost level. Then gently scraped it down to level. I still need to fill in 2 spots, I’ll get those done later. My back ended up at .076 to .081 in thickness. I made 2 top back braces 5/16” wide, 2 lower @ ½” . I used the Washer to emulate the radius trick. But, it chews up too much stock where the line lands. So I made a Radiused wood stencil then traced it at the middle bottom of the new braces. Some band saw then sanding in the 20’ radius dish. I have been told ideal would be 15’ for the back, 28 to 35’ for the top. I ended up with 20’ 20’. Which is not ideal for a guitar but as a photographer I like the numbers lol. I located the center line then squared off the back brace locations as per “Guitarmaking Tradition and Technology” book So, back braces are ready to go on. I glued in the back strip using the straight edge as a guide to keep even. I removed the straight edge. Cleaned up the glue goo. Lights off. Thanks for the words of encouragement. They give me reasons to smile and carry on!..... as I pull chisels out of my fingers and such. |
#54
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Awesome!...Keep up the great work.
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#55
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Looking good, John - I can see that your helper is doing a great job
Fliss |
#56
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Better than watchin Bonanza! You should turn this whole adventure into a reality TV series ... much more entertaining than what's out there now (and dramatic - what neck joint WILL he use ... how will that backstripe look finished ... will he try a bevel next time???).
Coming along nicely! Thanks for all the posts. John
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Ryan MGC EIR/Sitka Doerr SJ Legacy Select MadRose/German Omega MJC EIR/German Baranik CX Mad Rose/Western Red Cedar |
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July 19th Braces and stuff
Hi folks. I am up for a TV show. I've watched American Iron Chef. My dog could do a better show! Easter week the secret ingredient was Rabbit! We skipped Kentucky Derby week! Anyway........
I cut the slots where the braces would be placed. When I glued up I went skimpy in the exact area the brace slot would be cut. So, chipping them out after the dove saw cut was easy. A little run of sandpaper and rockn roll I put in the braces 1 at a time. I used a factory squared block to square off the center strip Then onto cut the sides to fit.....How? My first idea didn't work but it got me thinking in the right direction. I read cut them together then the line matches up. I tried a cheap Japan saw because the protruding top edge of the good Dove saw was in the way, this way So I switched to this method. Still room to think out abetter way, but it worked. On the bottom I needed to cut only a 1/4" off one and something like 1/32" off the other. I will add more length to the bout in future builds. To close. But, I did it! |
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Pt 2 7 19
It was now Midnight. Time to quit, but I didn't want to! [IMG] Last edited by Kitchen Guitars; 07-20-2009 at 06:30 AM. |
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Quote:
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July 22 The Box is almost done!
I made some big boo boo's. Nothing that was not fixable. But, I made hours of work for myself. Nothing makes you remember better methods like hours to think about it.
I put on the end blocks without sizing them first! Chopping a 1/4" off of one and a top 1/8" and a bottom 1/8" off another was a real bummer. + I had the NT block on an angle I guess when I leveled it down. That caused problems also. I drove a drill bit into the table and used that as a centerpost. Then I poked a hole in the sandpaper on the radius dish, accessing a center hole. I leveled the molds sorta and centered sorta. I used a White construction pencil to mark the whole top perimeter. That will tell me when I am level. I also added a center brace I made quickly. It really seems like a great addition for holding the top and bottom in place. Well, 15 minutes of sanding with the 28' dish leveled all but the back of the NT Block. So, I filled in the set pin holes I won't use and superglued a thin piece of Mahogany (remember the height gauge for the Backstrip? RIP) on the slope I had created sanding flat something that was not flat. Now I rough sanded. Then Radiused down quickly. When I did the back side with the 20' it went a lot smoother. First I went back to the class pictures at A.S.I.A on this method. I braced and leveled better. Marked it and sanded. The end blocks cooperated! Onto kerfing. I have watched build threads for 5 years now. The clothespins everywhere was always the picture that had me wondering "How in the heck do I get to that point" Now I am here! It's 10:30. Time to make my wife some Eggplant Parmesan. Last edited by Kitchen Guitars; 07-23-2009 at 07:36 AM. |