#16
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I plan to keep the 80 / 20 strings on my western redcedar /mahogany and spruce / ebony guitars.
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M. D. Vaden / Arborist, Photographer - Hsienmo 38S, Sinker Redwood - Hsienmo Autumn, European Spruce - Teton STA180CEAB-AR, Sitka Spruce - Teton STS205CENT, Thuja / Redcedar |
#17
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I am currently at the beginning stages of a search for what strings my guitars like. I bought eight sets of Elixer Nanowebs. I got two each of phosphor bronze (98/2) and 80/20 in both 12-53 and 13-56. I put the 98/2 alloy strings in 13-56 gauge on both my Yamaha LL-16 (all solid Rosewood) and my D-18 (all solid Mahogany) I’m almost a week short of one month on the phosphor bronze 13’s. The D-18 had a small change in the tone, probably just because they were brand new strings, and I was more or less expecting that. It came to me with Martin phosphor bronze 13’s on it, so no big change there. The Yamaha however, really surprised me. I was using some Martin uncoated 80/20 light gauge (12-53) and it sounded pretty good. The 98/2 13’s made this guitar a super star. It is louder, brighter, clearer, just about everything better. I am completely blown away with what these strings have done for the Yamaha. After nearly a month of playing, and it is divided pretty equally between the two guitars, the strings are still good. Up until this I have always been sceptical of the claims that coated strings will last twice as long as uncoated, but no more. I am now a believer.
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#18
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Lovely music. I have just just tried 80/20 on an adi/rosewood guitar and it was a bit too shrill on that one, I think I can also tell from your recording, nice bottom, but two shrill on the lighter strings. Maybe it is the adi top that sometimes requires a darker string or at least mediums.
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Jan |
#19
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I go back and forth between 80/20s and P/Bs on my hd28. I like them both, so they take turns to keep it from interesting.
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#20
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For my dreads it:
- Martin D40 (Sitka/IER) - PB (Mediums) - Guild D44M (Sitka/Maple) - PB (Bluegrass) - Custom built 12 Fret SS (Engelmann/Black Walnut) - 80/20 (Bluegrass) - Martin D18 (Sitka/Mahogany) - Jury is still out - PB or 80/20 (Mediums) - each offer its own flavor of awesome. Side note: My Larrivee 12 Fret 000-40 (Sitka/Mahogany) - holds its own with all of my dreads and again - Jury is still out - PB or 80/20 (Mediums) - each offer its own flavor of awesome. Perhaps the Sitka/Mahogany pairing is the most versatile. Last edited by FingahPickah; 07-08-2023 at 06:45 AM. |
#21
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When I bought my D-28 back in the early 70's, there wasn't a lot of variety for string choices.
I figured, well it's a Martin guitar, so just put Martin strings on. About 30 years later, with more choices, I was able to buy different strings in bulk. I began using PB and D'Addario lights. Then 2/3 years ago, on a whim, I put 80/20 strings on. They sounded great. These were the strings this guitar broke in and opened up with. It was a sound I remembered this guitar having. Now I only use 80/20's with this particular guitar. |
#22
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Some years ago I ran through a bunch of strings on my Bourgeois (sitka and EIR) to figure out what strings it liked best, and The Martin SP 80/20s came up on top, and I've mostly been using them on that guitar since then; unfortunately they stopped making them a few years ago, and I'm running out. They just give it a little bit of extra sizzle in the top end.
Though, I do tend to run PBs on my OM-21. .... Have you found a good alternative to the SPs since they stopped making them? I haven't found anything that I like as much.
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"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A (Call me Dan) |
#23
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I have 80/20 on my 000-28EC and PB on my HD-28 Adi
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11 Eastman E6OM 61 Hofner Senator 79 Guild D-25 70 Yamaha FG-110 69 Ryoji Matsuoka no.20 (classical) 21 Marlon Navarro Studio (classical) 22 Martin 000-28EC 2019 Martin Style 28 Herringbone Adi ' 50s Magnatone Lap Steel '60s Decca DSP (Dept. Store Parlor) Late 30's Favilla Soprano Uke Electrics and more electrics |
#24
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Given equivalent conditions, playing time, yadda yadda, which lasts longer between 80/20 and PB?
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(insert famous quote here) |
#25
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Don't chase tone. Make tone. |
#26
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Partly why PB really became the industry standard and so popular is because its alloy composition is much more corrosion resistant than brass. I think most folks agree, plus they sound good
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Don't chase tone. Make tone. |
#27
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I do think that 80/20s sound better on some guitars, and monels on others. I don't have any guitars that I prefer the sound of PBs on, though I don't hate them on any.
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"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A (Call me Dan) |
#28
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And I found that different brands of 80/20s sound different too! On this particular guitar the Martin 80/20s and Newtone 80/20s sound too brittle, but the Earthhood silk and steel 80/20s sound great. Bottom line? Experiment! |
#29
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I have, yeah, don't love them, but they're ok.
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"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A (Call me Dan) |
#30
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Besides the alloy, I think the core wire and coating have as much to do with the tone differences in strings. All else equal, I prefer PB on just about everything. I tend to be a creature of habit with respect to sound.
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"Lift your head and smile at trouble. You'll find happiness someday." |
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Tags |
80/20, rosewood, string comparison |
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