Does the one dexter help with low end feedback from K&K

[markcrawford]

Well, who knows whenever I will get this done. The guy that was going to put it in for me around here is flaking on me. I do not want to carry to Mark to normal guitar techs because it’ll take them eight weeks to get it back to me. I live in Rocky Mountain North Carolina if anybody knows anyone near me. Mark Cane The Fret King is awesome but it’s difficult for me to get it to him during the week because I’m working. I’m scrambling trying to find somebody that can do it. I wish I knew how to use a soldering iron, but I just never got into that. I put the kk in myself. Oh well. Hurry up and wait.

[guitaniac]

Originally Posted by markcrawford

Well, who knows whenever I will get this done. The guy that was going to put it in for me around here is flaking on me. I do not want to carry to Mark to normal guitar techs because it’ll take them eight weeks to get it back to me. I live in Rocky Mountain North Carolina if anybody knows anyone near me. Mark Cane The Fret King is awesome but it’s difficult for me to get it to him during the week because I’m working. I’m scrambling trying to find somebody that can do it. I wish I knew how to use a soldering iron, but I just never got into that. I put the kk in myself. Oh well. Hurry up and wait.

In the meantime, something as simple as a Boss GE-7 graphic equalizer could be very helpful. You’d need to experiment with it a bit and get a sense of where your problem(s) lie when your guitar top starts reacting to a high sound level. My guess is that some healthy cuts at 100Hz and 200Hz would help.

Locally here, there’s an excellent player who uses a GE-7 to preamp his Pure Mini equipped vintage f-hole guitar. He cuts the heck out of the lows for pro stages which have massive subwoofers.

I should mention that the GE-7’s input impedance is 1Mohm, perfect for a passive Pure Mini.

[aschroeder]

Originally Posted by guitaniac

In the meantime, something as simple as a Boss GE-7 graphic equalizer could be very helpful.

I recently posted about my own problems with feedback on my K&K equipped guitar. As guitaniac mentioned, a graphic equalizer pedal would help. In the past I used a GE-7 pedal and it works great for most of my guitars. I now have upgraded to a Boss EQ-200 pedal that does the same as the GE-7, but allows me to save multiple EQ settings for different guitars. I use it so I can quickly switch guitars during a set.

With that said, neither the GE-7 or the EQ-200 could fully cure my problem. My guitar still had too much in the low frequencies even with the low end cut as much as the pedal allows. In order to fix it I actually ran it through both pedals. Kind of an abnormal solution, but it did work in the short term. I go through the GE-7 first and dial out !00% of the low end and midrange frequencies. Then I go through the EQ-200 to dial it in. It then sounds amazing, but it's a bit ridiculous to run through two graphic EQ pedals.

Down the road I plan to install the James May Ultra Tonic upgrade so my K&K is more plug and play.

[guitaniac]

Originally Posted by aschroeder

I recently posted about my own problems with feedback on my K&K equipped guitar. As guitaniac mentioned, a graphic equalizer pedal would help. In the past I used a GE-7 pedal and it works great for most of my guitars. I now have upgraded to a Boss EQ-200 pedal that does the same as the GE-7, but allows me to save multiple EQ settings for different guitars. I use it so I can quickly switch guitars during a set.

With that said, neither the GE-7 or the EQ-200 could fully cure my problem. My guitar still had too much in the low frequencies even with the low end cut as much as the pedal allows. In order to fix it I actually ran it through both pedals. Kind of an abnormal solution, but it did work in the short term. I go through the GE-7 first and dial out !00% of the low end and midrange frequencies. Then I go through the EQ-200 to dial it in. It then sounds amazing, but it's a bit ridiculous to run through two graphic EQ pedals.

Down the road I plan to install the James May Ultra Tonic upgrade so my K&K is more plug and play.

Hi aschroeder, If you need more than a 15db cut on those low frequecies, I’m wondering if you installed your Pure Mini with tape instead of glue. That tends to emphasize the bass. In any event, you could even get a 30db range from the GE-7 if you put the weakest frequency range up at +15db. It’s probably best to cut from the 0 mark, however, if no frequency range needs more than a 15db cut. The exception would be if you need more signal boost than the +15db boost which the master volume slider can provide.

I personally can’t remember needing more than a 9db cut of any frequency band. If I did, it would be easy to get from my Zoom A1-Four pedal as I can program two simulated GE-7s in series within a patch. (50 patches available to program multiple patches for multiple instrument rigs.) If it was just one or two frequency ranges that needed more than a 15db cut, I could put one of the simulated parametric EQs in series with the simulated GE-7.

In any event, you could definitely use the Ultra Tonic, or the Ultra Tonic add on, if your Pure Mini is glued in and it still needs such an extreme EQ correction.

The A1-Four is another possible solution, but I wouldn’t recommend the A1-Four for folks who like to keep things simple. Albeit, it’s a useful tool for old geezers like me with plenty of time to study a piece of complicated gear.

[markcrawford]

The Mach 2 has a notch filter that works like a charm most of the time. I can also tell you that preamp sounds much better than the original pure mini xlr. I have both and the older pure mini xlr does not have the high-end "air" that the match 2 does. I keep the pure mini xlr as a backup but the money I spent on the match 2 several years ago was well spent. It runs off of 18 volts phanom and has more high-end and the notch.

[guitaniac]

Originally Posted by markcrawford

The Mach 2 has a notch filter that works like a charm most of the time. I can also tell you that preamp sounds much better than the original pure mini xlr. I have both and the older pure mini xlr does not have the high-end "air" that the match 2 does. I keep the pure mini xlr as a backup but the money I spent on the match 2 several years ago was well spent. It runs off of 18 volts phanom and has more high-end and the notch.

The Mach 2 looks like a nice high-end piece of gear. I don’t doubt that it gives you pristine sound and that putting a GE-7 in series in front of it might dirty up your sound a bit. In an emergency, however, adding the GE-7 will give you better EQ control. You should certainly try using the Mach 2’s sweepable mids, but the sweepable mids only go down to 170Hz and it can’t control it’s entire sweepable midrange at once.

[markcrawford]

Got my guitar back tonight. The guy who put it in chose switch 8 I think. I can tell you that it absolutely eliminated feedback. Wow. I actually turned up the bass. I think with the e string sensor and less low-end, it almost sounded too balanced. Like the G was subdued. I expect that is because I have been used to hearing those CEO-7s with a ton of low end. Anyway, I am going to play it a while and he said that if we needed to go back and look at the switches again, we could, no worries. He did the "tap test" and also used his Bose powered speaker right in front of it. He is musician and has a great ear, which is why I chose him to do it. I will say that I am going to like the extra body on the high E. There is a noticeable difference, and for fingerstyle stuff, it really helps. Other guitars in my stable will get this eventually. I have been playing it on a powered speaker here with the regular pure mini di (I use the match 2 on gigs but this will do for an in-house test drive). Guess what, I can actually use this preamp now with no worries. I always like the way it was smooth but liked the Mach 2 for added high end air. Dayam....if you are on the fence...get it done. I am still not sure I will have to do it with my Collings CJ. Just goes to show you how balanced that guitar is.

[tadol]

Nailed it! It’s so nice to just plug in when you need to, never worry about batteries or feedback, just adjust EQ if you feel you need to. The UltraTonic may be the one piece of kit at a gig that I never need to worry about, or even think about - it just works exactly the way you’d hope it would -

[guitaniac]

Hi Mark,

Thanks for following up. Glad to learn that you found a satisfying resolution to your issue.

[markcrawford]

Which dip switch did you use for your CEO-7? I am getting my second one done now. I wanted to see someone used a different switch setting. I think my tech used 9. Holler.

[fwphoto]

Originally Posted by markcrawford

Which dip switch did you use for your CEO-7? I am getting my second one done now. I wanted to see someone used a different switch setting. I think my tech used 9. Holler.

My D-18 is set to 4 so I'd expect your CEO-7 would definitely be set to a higher number. It's a bit of a PITA for sure but, if you can, you should probably pull the circuit & play with the DIP switches yourself to judge the best balance between feedback suppression & fullest tone available. Kinda like string selection, you are the judge of what makes your guitar sound best to you. The James May site has good instructions on how to do it here:

https://k3y8da.a2cdn1.secureserver.n...tions-V1.2.pdf

The good news is once you get it set to *your* preference you won't need to do it again. I hope to be adding the UT to my 00-18 this winter after it (hopefully) goes on sale again around Christmas. I've had a good guitar tech install my previous pickups but think I'll try this time myself. We'll see. :-)

Frank