#1
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Bolt on Mortise & Tenon Fit Question
I am using a simple mortise tenon bolt on neck which attaches via two bolts.
I have both mortise and tenon routed however the tenon is either slightly too wide / or the mortise a bit too narrow (hope that makes sense). My question is where should I incrementally remove material from in order to dial in the fit? slim the tenon or widen the mortise? To add, it seems very close to fitting so I do not think very much material at all will need removal .... slivers here and there I am hoping. Thanks. Nahil. |
#2
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Easier to remove it from the tenon.
A slightly loose fit will allow you to adjust the neck position at final fitting. |
#3
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It’s not uncommon to have to block sand the sides of my tenons a bit
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#4
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As Skar said, tenon is easiest.
As far as the "fit" goes, a tight tenon won't benefit you much, the important thing, and what will determine your neck tilt and side to side angle (to center the strings over the neck) is the heel to body fit. If your tenon is too snug then that fit becomes difficult. |
#5
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So if I understand you right the important thing would be the alignment of the attachment bolts, correct? If the bolt location is aligned square so that the attached neck tilt and pitch transitions flush with the soundboard where the fingerboard extends? Sorry if I am rambling but I am just slowly trying to get a grasp of this guitar building obsession! Thanks, Nahil. |
#6
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Most of the bolt on designs I've seen include clearance where the bolts pass into the tenon, to allow for some adjustment. The bolts hold everything in place correctly, but they are not the aligning feature. This is different from a dovetail type joint, where all the alignment mentioned is done by the mating fit of the two pieces. |
#7
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The attachment bolts and their respective holes obviously have to be fairly close, but the neck block holes are usually specified to have enough play that the neck will not be prevented from proper alignment by the attachment bolts. All you have to think about is what happens to the neck angle as the bolts are snugged. The heel shoulders are pulled in tight to the body and their relationship is what determines all of the critical alignment relationships between the neck and the body. You should be working from a plan that details these relationships. You can zoom in on the 00 plan that I recently posted to see how the heel fits to the body in a typical mortise and tenon neck joint: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1--c...7e9R9QDGX/view The fit of the heel to the body is what it's all about. Last edited by Rudy4; 10-23-2020 at 12:47 PM. |
#8
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Just curious: what software do you use to create your plans? Back-in-the-day, I used to draw mine with a pencil and drafting machine on a drafting board and made copies via blueprint. (One has to be old enough to remember those.) |
#9
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That is very kind of you to share. Thank you. |
#10
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I've been retired for 14 years and knew that when I retired I wanted to do building guide packages with full size printed plans so I purposefully pursued a long-term project at my day job that required redoing all our electrical and plant layout diagrams. I settled on DesignCAD 2D and got about 5 years of CAD experience before retiring. I've continued using DesignCAD 2D since I retired and I've created a lot of really nice construction drawings with it. I e-mailed the final drawings as pdfs to my local blueprint shop and they ran off batches of 100 for me as full size drawings that made them very economical in those quantities. DesignCAD 2D is reasonably priced and easy to use, if you have any basic CAD knowledge. https://www.turbocad.com/designcad/designcad-2d.html |