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  #61  
Old 03-10-2015, 10:04 PM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default Body Sanding

Here are a few pics of the body sanding process. Once this is done, Larry will do the inlay on the headplate and the fretboard, then sand the neck.

There are a few pics of Larry using a black light to see any glue residue.














Now the bearclaw is popping a bit!
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
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  #62  
Old 03-15-2015, 06:58 AM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default Logo Inlay

Here Larry inlays the pearl logo in the headplate.


The two-piece logo



Setting the correct position



Tracing the logo outline





Routing the headplate



To Be Continued...
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
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But it all comes out on the inside
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  #63  
Old 03-15-2015, 07:04 AM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default Logo Inlay

The logo inlay continued...













Larry whips out a dimebag of ebony dust and rubs the dust into the small gaps around the logo



The logo is then flooded with water-thin CA glue



After the glue dries it is sanded



And voila! One inlaid logo
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
You're longing to be
But it all comes out on the inside
Eventually

Last edited by OddManOut; 03-15-2015 at 09:02 AM.
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  #64  
Old 03-15-2015, 07:57 AM
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TomB'sox TomB'sox is offline
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Default

That last series of pics was my favorite yet. I always wanted to see how the inlays were always done so perfectly. I am amazed that he did the router by hand first off...his own personal CNC machine I guess. Then I always wondered how the inlays could be done so perfectly with no gaps etc. The ebony dust and glue filled in all those gaps perfectly....it is amazing. In a way though I feel like I just pulled back the curtain and found the wizard, the magic is gone a little.

Tom
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  #65  
Old 03-15-2015, 07:59 AM
dbradfie dbradfie is offline
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Default

That was very enlightening for me.

Thanks for posting the detailed pictures.
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  #66  
Old 03-15-2015, 09:32 AM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB'sox View Post
That last series of pics was my favorite yet. I always wanted to see how the inlays were always done so perfectly. I am amazed that he did the router by hand first off...his own personal CNC machine I guess. Then I always wondered how the inlays could be done so perfectly with no gaps etc. The ebony dust and glue filled in all those gaps perfectly....it is amazing. In a way though I feel like I just pulled back the curtain and found the wizard, the magic is gone a little.

Tom

Glad you liked them. There will be more.

Every luthier has their methods for doing things. This thread shows Larry's particular take on building a guitar. The ebony dust trick is cool, and the results very nice looking. It has a particular limitation, however. The wood dust trick only works well on black headplates. On lighter headplates the filled gaps are more visible. So this limits the choices for headplate wood.

My personal favorite for headplates is to match the back wood with a book matched heaplate from the back offcuts. However, the hand inlay of the logo becomes more difficult. Many of the larger builders deal with this by using CNC inlay or using water transfer (non-inlaid) logos. Perhaps others luthiers can get it done by hand...I don't know.

Quote:
That was very enlightening for me.

Thanks for posting the detailed pictures.
My pleasure. Thank you for following this thread.
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
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But it all comes out on the inside
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  #67  
Old 03-16-2015, 07:40 AM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default 12th Fret Inlay and Heel Cap

A bunch of pics just came in. There are multiple posts below.

Continuing with the inlay theme, here are a few pics of the 12th fret marker being inlaid. Also a few pics of the endcap being glued up.


One of the design details on all of my custom Tahoe guitars thus far has been a plain fretboard with only a 12th fret marker. When Larry and I came up with the (IMO) simple-yet-elegant design for this 12th fret marker back in 2011, we were calling it a "willow leaf". But it has become fondly known as the "propeller".

Once laid out, the inlay process is identical to the logo inlay shown above.















As Larry was doing the logo inlay, he asked me "So...what about a heelcap?". The obvious choices are to match either the binding or the back. Since curly mahogany to match the binding is in short supply, Larry called down to the Tahoe Guitar Co. Wood Scrap Department and requisitioned some MadRose scraps. Look what showed up...a book matched offcut from the back. Brilliant! Pretty nice match, no?




A little glue, wax paper (to protect the sides from glue squeeze out), and some clamping action.





After trimming it to profile
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
You're longing to be
But it all comes out on the inside
Eventually

Last edited by OddManOut; 03-16-2015 at 07:51 AM.
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  #68  
Old 03-16-2015, 07:58 AM
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Default Tuner Holes

This series of pictures shows the tuner holes being drilled in the head. These pics are taken from the process on two different necks.


Larry sets up his fancy headstock jig. A key step here is to put some backing to prevent tearout on the holes when drilling.








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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
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But it all comes out on the inside
Eventually
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  #69  
Old 03-16-2015, 08:21 AM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default Bridge Location 1: Pin Hole Drilling

Here is an important step...placing the bridge in the correct location on the top. Drilling the holes for the bridge pins is an integral part of this process. The outer holes are used for preserving the location by use of location pins.

The approximate location



The tool shown allows for the distance from the nut to the 12th fret to be translated from the 12th fret to the bridge. This establishes the correct bridge location.




The centerline for the pin holes is marked






Marking the hole locations





The drilling begins





Measurements prior to drilling through
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
You're longing to be
But it all comes out on the inside
Eventually

Last edited by OddManOut; 03-16-2015 at 10:13 AM.
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  #70  
Old 03-16-2015, 08:35 AM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default Bridge Location 2: Pin Hole Drilling and Positioning

Measurements confirmed, the drilling is completed





Here are the outer holes. These have been fully drilled so location pins can be inserted. The other holes will be drilled through after the bridge is glued to the top.


Small segments of dowel are in place. These protrude from the back side of the bridge and through the top. They will be glued in place once the top is drilled.



Now the position of the outer pin holes is transferred to the top






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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
You're longing to be
But it all comes out on the inside
Eventually

Last edited by OddManOut; 03-16-2015 at 08:54 AM.
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  #71  
Old 03-16-2015, 08:49 AM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default Bridge Location 3: Positioning. Bridge Shaping.

The outer holes are now drilled through the top



The drill bit is used to maintain the position of the first hole while the second is drilled





Note the lighter spruce shavings



The location pins will be glued in place, protruding from the outer holes on the bottom of the bridge. Thus the bridge can engage with the top, reliably preserving the bridge location during subsequent steps.



Here Larry is shaping the top of the bridge. The bushing at the bottom of the sanding cylinder rides along a guide matching the desired profile.


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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
You're longing to be
But it all comes out on the inside
Eventually
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  #72  
Old 03-16-2015, 09:47 AM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default The Guitar Thus Far

A couple of status pics. The second shows the two guitars-mine and the mahogany/Adi dread-being built together.



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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
You're longing to be
But it all comes out on the inside
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  #73  
Old 03-16-2015, 10:39 AM
Marcus Wong Marcus Wong is offline
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The build is almost complete. You must be extremely excited! Maybe living so close might not be a good thing after all. Bet you want to just slap the neck on it, string it up and start hammering away lovely build
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  #74  
Old 03-16-2015, 09:04 PM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Wong View Post
The build is almost complete. You must be extremely excited! Maybe living so close might not be a good thing after all. Bet you want to just slap the neck on it, string it up and start hammering away
I am getting excited...I would guess another 5 weeks or so, depending on when Larry starts "painting" the guitars.

Actually, I do pretty well for most of the build process. I have certainly learned that luthiery is not about rushing things. The most difficult time is the three weeks during which the guitar is hanging while the finish cures. That can be a bit tough...and it is just around the corner.

Quote:
lovely build
Thank you very much!
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
You're longing to be
But it all comes out on the inside
Eventually
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  #75  
Old 03-28-2015, 07:50 PM
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Default Paint!

Larry is spraying nitro finish the guitar! Once all the coats are on, it will hang for three weeks or so to allow the finish to cure.


Bridge and extension area masked, ready for painting.




Two bodies, two necks. Let us spray.




The curly mahogany binding starts to pop against the MadRose.










The neck binding



A bit of curl from the neck lams



The MadRose back has come to life
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
You're longing to be
But it all comes out on the inside
Eventually
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