#1
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String Changing – All off or one at a time?
Do you take all your strings off, then put on the new set. Or do you swap out strings one at time when putting on a new set?
I wonder if you have noticed this? When I take off all the strings, perhaps to clean the fretboard or work on the bridge, the new set takes a while to “break in”, gain bass and resonance and for the guitar to come back to life. Whereas, if I change the strings one at a time the new set is “broken in” almost immediately. Perhaps this has something to do with the tension coming off the neck/truss rod and it taking a while to “engage” the neck again? Many have posted here how they have experienced a small tweak to engage the truss rod making a big difference to resonance. So, if you don’t have a particular reason to take all the strings off then just maybe changing the set one at a time may be a better option?
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I'm learning to flatpick and fingerpick guitar to accompany songs. I've played and studied traditional noter/drone mountain dulcimer for many years. And I used to play dobro in a bluegrass band. |
#2
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I always take them all off. Next time I'll try one at a time and get back to you!
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#3
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I'm an all off guy. Let's me get in and give everything a good wipe down. I've never noticed an issue with taking time to break in. I usually find it takes a couple of days to settle down!
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Martin |
#4
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Hi all
I still take the old ones off, and wipe down the fingerboard, etc. I've done both (and still change the slot head one at a time). I see no difference in the outcome since I pre-stretch strings (I KNOW I KNOW…strings don't really stretch). Perhaps I should say I pre-seat all the strings by adding more tension (stretching the slack out of them). |
#5
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I take them all off, reverse order of how I put them on. Then I will dust down the headstock and wipe clean the fretboard with a damp cloth and install the new strings.
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#6
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Anything with a floating bridge, I'll generally take the middle 4 strings off, leaving the outer two to hold the bridge in place. Once the new middle ones are in place, swap out the two outer strings.
It's just a matter of convenience really, less time (sometimes none at all) spent readjusting the intonation. Other than that, I'll do it either way. Depends on how much time I have to clean and polish things. I've never really bought into that theory that's bad to take all the strings off. It's a guitar. It can take it. |
#7
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I take 'em all off. It's the ONLY time I ever wipe down or clean or polish anything other than the strings. And I don't change 'em all that often, so the guitar is usually ready for a bit of cleaning by the time I do.
-Ray
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"It's just honest human stuff that hadn't been near a dang metronome in its life" - Benmont Tench |
#8
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I change one string at a time. I start with the plain strings. I take off the 1st string and replace it, etc, all the way through the wound strings; always finishing with the 6th string. Always in that order. That has just become my habit.
Last edited by 12barBill; 06-19-2021 at 11:02 AM. |
#9
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String Changing – All off or one at a time?
6 string mostly one at a time, bass to treble, except for occasional cleaning. 12 string also one at a time, main strings first, bass to treble, and then octave strings bass to treble; except octave 'g' string tuned up last. One 12 string to D# standard intervals and the other to C# Keltic (DADGAD intervals tuned down 1 semitone from D#). Don .
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*The Heard: 85 Gibson J-200 sitka/rosewood Jumbo 99 Taylor 355 sitka/sapele 12 string Jmbo 06 Alvarez AJ60S englmn/mpl lam med Jmbo 14 Taylor 818e sitka/rosewood Grand Orchestra 05 Taylor 512ce L10 all mahogany Grand Concert 09 Taylor all walnut Jmbo 16 Taylor 412e-R sitka/rw GC 16 Taylor 458e-R s/rw 12 string GO 21 Epiphone IBG J-200 sitka/maple Jmbo 22 Guild F-1512 s/rw 12 string Jmbo |
#10
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I take 'em all off. I detune to relieve tension and then just cut them all. Makes it quicker/easier.
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Be curious, not judgmental. |
#11
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One at a time for the most part, if the fretboard is looking a bit grungy then I'll take the strings all off and give it a cleaning.
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#12
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One at a time, starting with the low E string.
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#13
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One at a time, low E first. I don't know if it matters but my instinct tells me that it's better to keep tension on the neck.
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Faith Mars FRMG Faith Neptune FKN Epiphone Masterbilt Texan |
#14
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Except for my archtops with floating bridges, I take them all off and restring from the outside in. Archtops I do one at a time, although I may try Highroller's idea of taking off the middle four and replacing them, then the two 'e' strings.
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Guild F212: 1964 (Hoboken), Guild Mark V: 1975 (Westerly), Guild Artist Award: 1975 (Westerly), Guild F50: 1976 (Westerly), Guild F512: 2010 (New Hartford), Pawless Mesquite Special: 2012, 90s Epi HR Custom (Samick), 2014 Guild OOO 12-fret Orpheum (New Hartford), 2013 12 fret Orpheum Dread (New Hartford), Guild BT258E, 8 string baritone, 1994 Guild D55, Westerly, 2023 Cordoba GK Negra Pro. |
#15
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Quote:
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1955 Gibson ES-125 1956 Fender Champ lap steel 1964 Guild Starfire III 1984 Rickenbacker 330 1990s Mosrite (Kurokumo) Ventures 2002/2005 Fender Japan '60s Tele [TL-62-66US] 2008 Hallmark 60 Custom 2018 Martin Custom Shop 00-18 slot-head 1963 Fender Bandmaster (blonde blackface) 1965 Ampeg Gemini I 2020 Mojotone tweed Champ kit build |