#16
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I started with a TAD 40, and then moved to a TAD 50. Did this mostly for the slight difference in tone. I find the speed bevel benefits my playing.
I moved away from tear drop shaped picks many years ago because of how they felt in my hand; the triangles just felt better to me. But teardrops might be a bit more versatile. |
#17
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This is the Official Silly Moustache advice :
1. TAD (346 large triangles) -three points, three times the benefit, point angle less acute - i.e. better string contact, better grip. 2. Speed bevel depending on your handedness. 3. Thickness - 40 (1 m/m) for light gauge strings. 50 (1.25 m/m) for mediums. 60 (1.5) if you want less attack, rounder bass/treble. n.b the 346 shape has more mass than 351, so 1 m/m roughly equates to 1.25m/m in 351/teardrop. n.b. - for mandolin - TAD50 3r speed bevel. Don't worry about cost, you'll never wear it out, and you'll never lose it. NOTE: My opinion is worth every penny you paid for it.
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#18
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My current favs are:
TP60-1r KS60 |
#19
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I use the TP-1R size... started with a 40, a decade ago, then bumped up to a 50 last year. It was a little difficult to get used to the bigger size, but really not that big a deal... (I was using a small Gibson teardrop heavy for MANY years...)
The TP-!R has 2 points and one rounded (TP, one R!)... I have them cut the speed bevel on both points, as well as up the side of the pick - I frequently let the pick rotate a bit while I'm strumming or doing all-purpose playing, so I like that bevel on both the point and the edge. At first I did not want the speed bevel, as I equated that with the normal wear on a regular pick, where the edge gets thinner and starts sounding sharper and "scratchy". Turns out I REALLY wanted that speed bevel; didn't care for the pick at all without it. I started with a 40; I was concerned that anything more would be too thick. After a year or two, I found myself thinking about a 50, as the 40 was feeling a little "loose". Blue Chip picks have such a different feel on the strings for me; they seem to "leap" off after an attack very quickly... I now have the 50 and love it! Don't know if I'll go thicker in the future... As was said, Blue Chip will exchange a pick if it's not damaged - but another great point is that they will work on a pick, at no charge... I've had my original TP-1R 40 back and forth to them at least 10 times over the past 11 years. The picks really wear like iron, but I have managed to nick the edge a couple times, so I'd send it back to them to have that bevel re-cut... they've never charged me! I pay postage there and they do the work and mail it back to me... Yep, they're expensive items... but I don't tend to lose things that cost a decent amount of money, so I've had mine for some time now... they aren't even close to wearing out! They may not be right for everyone, but they sure are right for me! Great picks, and a terrific company with which to do business...
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"Home is where I hang my hat, but home is so much more than that. Home is where the ones and the things I hold dear are near... And I always find my way back home." "Home" (working title) J.S, Sherman |
#20
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My 351 Medium came to a .66 mm. For a pick like Blue Chip stick with what you like. I would suggest try new styles with cheaper picks. I just got a TD35 and I love the feel. |
#21
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Yep, this is the one that I really like. I also still use the TD-35 which is the first Blue Chip that I ordered. Best, Jayne |
#22
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I have a TAD 40 1R too and think it’s a very versatile pick. I don’t tend to make much use of the rounded edge, but it does provide a nice option.
Jeff
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Flammang RS35, Flammang el35, SC 000 12 Fret ss, SC H13, SC PJ, Rockbridge 00, Eastman 810ce, Recording King RPH 03, Martin LX (on loan), Martin 0018vs (given to Godson), Lowden F388c (traded), SC OM (traded), Martin OM28v (traded), Martin 00017s (sold), Bourgeois Martin Simpson Slope D 12 fret (sold), Larrivee Parlor (traded), Larrivee L05MT (sold), Gibson LG1 (sold), Seagull Folk (traded) |
#23
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Almost voted that one too. Probably most versatile. I just love the TD, but you're right
KS corners look a lot like the TD shoulders, no? |
#24
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sm |
#25
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I think they are just in the range of and not accurate. |
#26
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Buy picks of various sizes and shapes similar to Blue Chip versions and see what works for your hands. My hands and your hands do different things. Do not rely on what I or others like to determine your choice
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#27
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I like this idea.
I started out with a TAD 50 (still have it) and like it a lot. I bought a TAD 40 for light gauge strings and guitars that don't require so much energy to produce good sound (still have it) I now mostly play with a TAD-3R 40 and I find that I rarely stray from it. If I really want to dig in on some flatpicking on a dread with medium strings, then I grab the TAD 50. All of my Blue Chips have speed bevels. I also tend to use the "shoulder" of my picks frequently. |
#28
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I also like Blue Chip picks and they are the only ones I use anymore.
My favorite is a little smaller than that of Gee Man. The TAD is very similar in size to the Fender triangle. (the white picks in the photo are Fender triangles) I like the TP size that is a little smaller. The R1 indicates that 1 corner is rounded. It’s nice to have for fast strumming, but for all other strumming or flat picking I prefer the pointed and speed beveled edges. The Jazz size is little and fat. I sanded my own bevel on that one and miss the sharper point on that one. The 100 size which is a fattie, is also a small fortune to spend for a pick |
#29
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I also play mandolin too, so I'm used to big triangles. CT55 and TAD 60, but I play dreads string with mediums. You can always order a 1-R version if you want to experiment with a rounder (darker) tip
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'21 Bourgeois Vintage D '21 Martin Custom Shop 18 Style 3 personally crafted mandolins 2 tele partscasters Yamaha Pacifica 611 VFM |
#30
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