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  #91  
Old 01-08-2015, 10:39 PM
printer2 printer2 is offline
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It looks like some health related issues are really going to effect me in the next while. I took stock of where I am in my guitar building scheme of things. I wanted to build my walnut guitar, had the wood for it along with the mini cherry guitar soaking up the moisture in my home brew environmental chamber. The cherry one is further along, the sides were joined, so I pick that one to work on as I will have a better chance of it getting done.

It was to be a nylon guitar with a 19" neck but I might change that. I saw the Yamaha Guitalele, thought it was cool and wanted to make my own. I was going to use the same body shape as my current guitars but I wanted to narrow the width. I managed to do the bracing for it this evening and then I took a page out of Bruce Sexauer's song book and glue the sides onto the top with hide glue and those little blocks instead of kerfed lining.




It did take time but I did not have to contour the lining as you would normally do when you glue up the top. The back will be done with kerfed linings. All in all a fairly productive evening.


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  #92  
Old 01-10-2015, 09:36 PM
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Coming along, going to use this neck blank I built up before. Originally I was going to do a 19" nylon guitar using some poplar I laminated way back when I had ideas on making a couple cigar box guitars. Boy have I come a long way from then. I changed my mind but I realized I had a problem with the truss rod being too long for this neck as I wanted it to come out the headstock. Cut the scarf joint and move the headstock piece up which will give me another inch of scale length. Still going to be shorter at about 21 1/2". I really need to make a jig to do scarf joints. Each time it is rigged up differently, at least I have enough clamps.



I am going to try a dovetail joint on this one, why not try something new when I am just getting the hang of the one I was using? At least I am having fun.


Last edited by printer2; 01-10-2015 at 10:25 PM. Reason: One more pic
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  #93  
Old 01-19-2015, 06:54 PM
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Give me enough time and I am sure to change my mind. Not 100% sure what I want out of this cherry guitar. I wanted to do a dovetail joint for the neck and body but while some applaud me for getting things done with inexpensive tools, my router let me down. The router collet is so offset the bit scrapes the one side of the collet. In the mean time I pulled out the back of the walnut guitar and did a back strip on it. I saw some pen blanks and thought I could use them to make purfling. I cut thin slices of the sides, sanded them and then slit those with a razor saw. Not a perfect job and probably not going to do it again. I wanted to do a row around the top and also use it for the rosette. It is a pain to bend, doing the back was not so bad.

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  #94  
Old 01-23-2015, 01:41 PM
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Well for better or worse the rosette is done. Not going to use this pen blank for a guitar again. Not very bend friendly. At least I can start bracing the top.






Last edited by printer2; 01-23-2015 at 08:23 PM.
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  #95  
Old 01-23-2015, 08:16 PM
Jim.S Jim.S is offline
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Can't see the rosette Fred. The back strip looks okay from a distance. I am a bit confused, are you talking about the guide (pattern follower) on your router rather than the collet? You can buy better guides rather than the ones that come with your router depending on the router you have.
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  #96  
Old 01-23-2015, 08:35 PM
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Well that was strange. The pictures were fine today, redid the links and they seem ok now.


Guide bushing! Why did I type collet? Well they both are parts of a router, I'm not that far off. The bushings are fine, the insert that the bushing sits in is manufactured fine. It is the base of the router that is out. I was thinking of making a new insert that is offset so the bushings are centered in relation to the bit. I was just too annoyed by it I didn't feel like doing some precise manufacturing. I'll have to get back to it yet.
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  #97  
Old 01-25-2015, 09:35 PM
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Braced up.



Added the sides.



Something strange going on with photobucket, changed my picture links again.

Last edited by printer2; 01-26-2015 at 07:10 PM.
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  #98  
Old 01-30-2015, 07:00 PM
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Did this in response to a thread on torrification in the General forum. Thought I would put it here also.

Torrified a piece of spruce. More or less. I wanted to get a oxygen free environment and thought of generating some carbon dioxide by mixing vinegar and baking soda, but no vinegar in the house. Thought about nitrogen. Where can you get a small quantity of it?

How about getting a tire and getting it filled up with nitrogen? Attach a hose to the valve stem, copper tubing into the oven and into the bag. Bag, what bag? I used to look after some metal heat treating equipment, for small items they had little stainless steel bags that you put the part into, squished out all the air and then folded the flat to seal it up.

So why not do the same with some aluminum foil around a piece of spruce? So I did. But any air left in the bag is not good for the part to be heat treated or the spruce. In heat treating with a baggie we usually would put a sacrificial metal that attracts the oxygen and combines with it before the part gets to the point where it will. They have a similar metal in a vacuum tube to suck up any gasses, in both cases the material is called a getter. Won't explain why.

I could not think of what to use as a getter, maybe something wood based that is thin and low mass but has a lot of surface area to react with the oxygen? But what to use?

Used toilet paper. Debated about whether more air will be trapped in with the toilet paper, went with it anyway. Cut a strip of spruce, cut it in half lengthwise, clamped them together and sanded all the edges so both pieces were the same size. Quickly rigged up a deflection gauge and loaded each piece and noted the deflection using a bolt as a mass. One deflected 0.113" the other 0.112". Took a number of measurements and was pretty confident on the numbers.

Now if I heated a piece up and then compared it to my control piece I would not know if any change was due to a lower moisture level in the baked piece or due to torrifcation. So I put both pieces in the oven and held them at about 110 C for 20 minutes. Then I sealed up my spruce toilet paper combo platter and baked for an hour. Should have had better control of the temperature, wanted to have about 250 C but hit close to 290 C a few times when I was distracted. The higher temperatures gives more of a color change, something I sure had.



Spruce tops that get treated end up stiffer along the grain and less stiff across the grain. The piece I used was a strip cut across the grain. So I should see the deflection increase as compared to the pre-treated value. I remeasured the control piece, had the same deflection as earlier. The treated piece had a previous deflection of 0.113", after treated it was about 0.122". So 10% greater deflection.

Would be interesting to try it with a purge of nitrogen doing the tire thing. Heard it is about $10 to fill up a tire with nitrogen. Maybe some other time. Would be practical to do a top in a pizza oven I guess. anybody up for it?
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  #99  
Old 01-30-2015, 08:38 PM
printer2 printer2 is offline
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Insert swear word here, _______.

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  #100  
Old 01-31-2015, 08:32 PM
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Help!

So I have this black and white 0.010" fiber that I want to make a B-W-B sandwich. I want to run it vertical between the wood binding on the top side, easy enough, but also between the binding and the side. How do I keep it perpendicular to the side? I would like to do something like this.



And I have this.

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  #101  
Old 02-01-2015, 10:17 PM
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Managed to use some card stock for mounting pictures as purfling. A little rough around the edges but I am going to have to wrap this guy up quickly if I can, other priorities in life have become more important. Tomorrow finish off the top side then move on to the neck.

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  #102  
Old 02-02-2015, 02:05 PM
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Printer,
I have found it best to glue the purfling to the bottom edge of the binding before you bend the binding and it makes the job easier.
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  #103  
Old 02-02-2015, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEK View Post
Printer,
I have found it best to glue the purfling to the bottom edge of the binding before you bend the binding and it makes the job easier.
I bent the sides and later decided to use excess width that I cut off as the binding. Did not plan for it.
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  #104  
Old 02-07-2015, 10:35 PM
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I was not happy at how I did the binding so I removed it. Hopefully get its replacement on tomorrow. There has been some talk about an all walnut guitar. I thought what the heck, why not. A while back I used a piece of walnut to see what kind of job I can can do at resawing. It was a flatsawn piece I originally got for a neck and had no other use for it.



It is not going to be pretty, just stripped down box and the neck that I did for the pine box but found it neck heavy. Not expecting too much longevity out of it, just want to see how loud it would be and what kind of tone.

Last edited by printer2; 02-08-2015 at 07:51 PM. Reason: Oops, left out a word.
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  #105  
Old 02-08-2015, 07:46 PM
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One side bent, one more to go. Hot air gun gets the pipe hot.

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