How to assess if Taylor 414CE needs a neck reset?

Barnzy · #1 12-05-2016, 05:11 PM

Hi Guys,
My Taylor is an older one and so it is a non-NT neck. Mine is from '98. I am pretty good with truss rod adjustments and do have some room to lower the saddle, but I am not sure about how to decide if it is time to get the neck adjusted. I do feel the action is okay at the first 7 or so frets, but then it really creeps up too much and I am a high fret player too. So, how can I take measurements to decide if it is reset time? Thanks for the discussion....
Barnzy

docwatsonfan · #2 12-05-2016, 06:47 PM

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musi...neckangle.html

fazool · #3 12-05-2016, 07:03 PM

no, you're better off going by Taylor's specs not a third party shop. Frets.com is very knowledgeable and expert but the manufacturer's specs are easiest to use.

Here are a whole bunch of files to review

In particular, you want to read THIS one

Earl49 · #4 12-05-2016, 07:46 PM

The Pre-NT neck is still bolt on, so it's not that big a deal to reset - if it is really necessary.

charles Tauber · #5 12-05-2016, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fazool

In particular, you want to read THIS one

I gotta say, that's one of the worst articles I've ever read on assessing neck angle. Aside from all the chest beating about how Taylor guitars are "special", the information is marginal and the diagrams confusing and misleading.

Go with Frank Ford's information: it is accurate and unbiased.

fazool · #6 12-05-2016, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

I gotta say, that's one of the worst articles I've ever read on assessing neck angle. Aside from all the chest beating about how Taylor guitars are "special", the information is marginal and the diagrams confusing and misleading.

Go with Frank Ford's information: it is accurate and unbiased.

Not sure why it's confusing.

Remove any relief in the neck so it is dead flat. Lay a straight edge on the frets. For steel string guitars the bottom of the straight edge should align exactly to the top of the bridge.

Thats all there is to it.

charles Tauber · #7 12-05-2016, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fazool

Not sure why it's confusing.

Remove any relief in the neck so it is dead flat. Lay a straight edge on the frets. For steel string guitars the bottom of the straight edge should align exactly to the top of the bridge.

Thats all there is to it.

If so, why did it take Taylor 2 pages, and diagrams, to state what you said?

(Although this discussion is specifically about Taylor guitars, as you well know, that isn't an entirely reliable method for guitars not manufactured by Taylor. Just for the sake of clarity.)

fazool · #8 12-05-2016, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

If so, why did it take Taylor 2 pages, and diagrams, to state what you said?

(Although this discussion is specifically about Taylor guitars, as you well know, that isn't an entirely reliable method for guitars not manufactured by Taylor. Just for the sake of clarity.)

Yes of course. I agree with you on those points.

Since the OP is only looking at a Taylor guitar, I figure following their methods would be best. I agree, Frank Ford and frets.com are a better reference for general neck checking.

And, you are also correct, that was a marketing piece really - some sales stuff all over it. But it had some diagrams and got the point across. Obviously he already owns a Taylor so doesn't need the sales pitch part.

fazool · #9 12-05-2016, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

If so, why did it take Taylor 2 pages, and diagrams, to state what you said? ....

Because I am a master of language

JackB1 · #10 03-08-2018, 03:12 PM

After putting in a new saddle, would I need to have the neck on my taylor reset? Or does this not matter since you are measuring with a straight edge to the wood of the bridge?

ChrisN · #11 03-08-2018, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackB1

After putting in a new saddle, would I need to have the neck on my taylor reset? Or does this not matter since you are measuring with a straight edge to the wood of the bridge?

Not necessarily. Separate issues. You should go ahead and check neck angle now, under string tension. Remove neck relief if you feel comfortable you can restore it, then lay a 24" straightedge on the frets between the D and G strings, slide toward bridge (careful of abrading those frets). If the straightedge *just* hits the edge of the bridge, or rides slightly above it, you're fine, regardless of saddle height. If more than slightly below, or more than 1/32 above, then a simple reshim may be necessary to restore angle. I suspect you'll find yours is OK, but you never know. If you're not mechanical, I'd leave the reshim to a Taylor tech - it's a 15-minute deal, and small $$.

The saddle/reset issue comes into play if you FIRST put the saddle where you want it, THEN reshim. The reshim will change the action and your "new" saddle height will be obsolete. So, check/adjust neck FIRST, then do new saddle, rather than the other way around.

JackB1 · #12 03-08-2018, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisN

Not necessarily. Separate issues. You should go ahead and check neck angle now, under string tension. Remove neck relief if you feel comfortable you can restore it, then lay a 24" straightedge on the frets between the D and G strings, slide toward bridge (careful of abrading those frets). If the straightedge *just* hits the edge of the bridge, or rides slightly above it, you're fine, regardless of saddle height. If more than slightly below, or more than 1/32 above, then a simple reshim may be necessary to restore angle. I suspect you'll find yours is OK, but you never know. If you're not mechanical, I'd leave the reshim to a Taylor tech - it's a 15-minute deal, and small $$.

The saddle/reset issue comes into play if you FIRST put the saddle where you want it, THEN reshim. The reshim will change the action and your "new" saddle height will be obsolete. So, check/adjust neck FIRST, then do new saddle, rather than the other way around.

OK great. I'll check with a straight edge later. And if it's OK, then it's on to the saddle replacement.

JackB1 · #13 03-09-2018, 06:28 AM

Neck seems to look ok to me

JackB1 · #14 03-09-2018, 06:32 AM

ChrisN · #15 03-09-2018, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackB1

I think that angle looks fine, but it's hard for me to tell how much the bottom corner of the straightedge touches below the front/top edge of the bridge, if at all. If it's 1/64 or less, I wouldn't do anything, but I would get it adjusted at 1/32. Others may disagree. I sent one to Taylor for a warranty fix - I thought the neck was fine - it just touched the edge, didn't drop below, and they reset it while they had it, which was nice. In your place, if it's 1/32 or less below, I'd do the saddle and check it again in a year.