#31
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Emerald has released a new video on string changes with the pinless bridge. Alistair uses the same method as before, just maintaining tension on the string after inserting the ball end into the hole. No golf tee. He does make it look easy.
On another note, the guitar Alistair is stringing has a light-colored fretboard. Anyone know what that is? I'm assuming its not a colored CF. |
#32
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In practice, I really couldn’t care less. They both look great, and I’ve never been able to detect any difference in feel in any fretboard material ever.
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Martin 0-16NY Emerald Amicus Emerald X20 Cordoba Stage Some of my tunes: https://youtube.com/user/eatswodo |
#33
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These arrived today. I’m going to have to tackle that 12-string pinless bridge soon…IMG_2073.jpg
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Martin 0-16NY Emerald Amicus Emerald X20 Cordoba Stage Some of my tunes: https://youtube.com/user/eatswodo |
#34
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Oddly I can't get my new X-20 fretboard to look anything but black. Maybe shiny black at low angles. Must have been the lighting and background in the video. Last edited by KevinH; 03-12-2022 at 10:31 AM. |
#35
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I’m posting this again…
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1950 Martin 00-18 RainSong Concert Hybrid Orchestra Model 12 Fret Eastman E20OOSS. Strandberg Boden Original 6 Eastman T185MX G&L ASAT Classic USA Butterscotch Blonde Rickenbacher Lap Steel Voyage-Air VAD-2 Martin SW00-DB Machiche 1968 Guild F-112 Taylor 322e 12 Fret V Class |
#36
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1966 Fender Mustang 2005 Takamine TF341DLX 2006 Hamer Artist Korina P90 2008 Taylor 814CE 2020 Emerald X-30 |
#37
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I think the pin-less bridge under the saddle may have evolved (or I have) since it was initially released. Possibly slot depth - I will have to stick a phone cam in there to be sure, but...
My early one does require some attention to keep the ball end in place during a change. The newer one I changed strings on this weekend really seemed to hang on without any fuss at all. Possibly my imagination since I've done it a few times. |
#38
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So here's a guitar maintenance tip for changing strings.
If your guitar has a bridge which holds the ball end of the new string in a slot beneath the soundboard (rather than with pegs for example), like Emerald guitars utilize, and you are frustrated by the string end popping back out while you are working on the other end at the tuners, utilize a CAPO to hold tension on the string in the bridge slot, freeing up both hands to thread the tuner end of the new string. |
#39
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Emerald Guitar String Change Tip
After leaving old strings on my Emerald guitar too long, due to dreading fighting with the bridge slot design, I had an epiphany. I put the new string in the bridge slot and pulled tension on it to keep it seated, then I put my CAPO on the neck to hold tension on the string, which freed up both of my hands to work on the tuner end of the string. It worked for all 6 strings without the ball end popping out once. Now I can change the strings on the Emerald as rapidly as any of my other guitars.
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#40
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If your guitar has a bridge which holds the ball end of the new string in a slot beneath the soundboard (rather than with pegs for example), like Emerald guitars utilize, and you are frustrated by the string end popping back out while you are working on the other end at the tuners, utilize a CAPO to hold tension on the string in the bridge slot, freeing up both hands to thread the tuner end of the new string. |
#41
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Could a person use a capo to hold the strings in place after you seated the ball in the slot? Asking for a friend. 'Cause I would use a capo. That might work. Using a capo, that is.
I am being conservative with band width, putting all three suggestions of a capo in just one post.
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Some CF, some wood. |
#42
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Like someone posted earlier, I believe the change to a pinless bridge was a solution looking for a problem. But since you can't get a new one without it, the capo is my go-to methodology.
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Strummin' to a different chord |
#43
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Here’s another vote for using a capo to hold the strings in the bridge. It made the string change I just did the easiest ever. I had some problems with the pinless bridge the first couple of times I changed strings. You can do either one string at a time or you can put all the strings into the bridge first, then work on the tuners.
As an aside, I had been hearing some buzzing on the high E string. I changed that string out a few months ago but still heard buzzing. But with this string change, the buzzing is gone. I’m a happy man. I’m not sure my string-changing technique has any effect on the buzz—but it didn’t hurt!
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Emerald X20 Baritone 2023 Yamaha SLG200S (Silent Guitar) Selah (Duncan Africa) 2022 Emerald X20 2021 Maton EBG 808TE 2011 Stonebridge OM32LMDB 2015 Martin D16e (GC Special) 2020 Taylor GS Mini 2015 Taylor 420 1995 Martin 00-17 1953 (with daughter) Yamaha 325e 2014 (traded) |
#44
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Except the Emerald Virtuo I got last summer, my other Emeralds are old enough to all use bridge pins. I changed strings on the Virtuo today, and also found using a capo made that task easier.
Thanks for the discussion about the pinless bridge and restringing!
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Some CF, some wood. |
#45
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I can confirm from personal experience that the capo trick does not work on an Amicus. Maybe if I owned a Kyser (aka death grip clamp) my opinion might differ.
My trusty IKEA wrench and a heaping dollop of patience work just fine. Interestingly, my more recent pinless X20 is a piece of cake for changes, with no black magic required. Maybe there have been refinements over the years.
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Martin 0-16NY Emerald Amicus Emerald X20 Cordoba Stage Some of my tunes: https://youtube.com/user/eatswodo |