Thomastik-Infeld Spectrum re-string method

[steveinrus]

I've just purchased a few sets of Spectrums.

I'm fairly proficient at the Taylor method of re-stringing my acoustics. I dislike the Martin method illustrated in their Care and Feeding manual.

I read in a post that the Taylor method doesn't work for restringing with Thomastik, though I'm not sure why that would be. I would really prefer to stick with the Taylor approach, i.e., initially, cut each string about 1.5 posts above the corresponding tuning post, insert the string till it is just sticking out of the end of the tuning hole and then wind it around the post to tension. I've never experienced any slippage with this approach.

Would appreciate any advice.

[Bluepoet]

I have strung Thomasik-Infelds, using the Taylor method, so, I don't know what the problem is...they weren't any different, as far as results, and I liked them, just fine. Ultimately, they didn't last as long as I like, so I stopped using them, but that didn't have anything to do with how they were strung...

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by steveinrus

I've just purchased a few sets of Spectrums.

I'm fairly proficient at the Taylor method of re-stringing my acoustics. I dislike the Martin method illustrated in their Care and Feeding manual.

I read in a post that the Taylor method doesn't work for restringing with Thomastik, though I'm not sure why that would be. I would really prefer to stick with the Taylor approach, i.e., initially, cut each string about 1.5 posts above the corresponding tuning post, insert the string till it is just sticking out of the end of the tuning hole and then wind it around the post to tension. I've never experienced any slippage with this approach.

Would appreciate any advice.

Depending upon the guitar, the length to cut off can sometimes be different.

Ie: If the tuning pegs are closely spaced, then sometimes 2 or 2-1/2 posts length is best.

Ie: If the tuning post is short, a shorter length cut to prevent the string from overlapping itself on the tuning post is suggested.

Ie: If the tuning posts are tall AND the headstock is at only a shallow angle compared with the neck, an extra bit of length should be given to wrap the string downwards near to the bottom of the post to increase string break angle at the nut. This is particularly true of Fender style electric headstocks (strats and teles).

A bend in the string with pliers often helps narrower diameter strings from slipping in the sound-post hole. Sometimes, bending from the soundpost hole won't create a clean enough angle in the string to hold the narrow diameter strings. (ie: .009" or .008" electric gauge high E strings.) This is how I have been taught when I first started working at a well known guitar store in Toronto, and have been doing this ever since with nary a problem.

"If it works, use it. If it doesn't, don't." (Ralph Towner's answer to one of my questions about composition rules during a master class, but can be applied to all of life.)

The only thing that really peeves me with string changes is when people leave medusa style headstocks. Any protruding string can cause injury, and I have witnessed a friend on stage with a medusa headstock where just as he moved, so did a female back-up singer. She got a string right into her eardrum! Rupture!!

And how many times have I poked myself on clients' guitars' strings due to the excess not being cut close to flush with the post and string wraps.

That's all for my diatribe on string changing. ;-)

[arie]

Originally Posted by steveinrus

I've just purchased a few sets of Spectrums.

I'm fairly proficient at the Taylor method of re-stringing my acoustics. I dislike the Martin method illustrated in their Care and Feeding manual.

I read in a post that the Taylor method doesn't work for restringing with Thomastik, though I'm not sure why that would be. I would really prefer to stick with the Taylor approach, i.e., initially, cut each string about 1.5 posts above the corresponding tuning post, insert the string till it is just sticking out of the end of the tuning hole and then wind it around the post to tension. I've never experienced any slippage with this approach.

Would appreciate any advice.

the only issue that i can imagine is that the silk wrapping adds a tiny amount of thickness the the winding end. you may find yourself with a bit less string on the post then you though, and a bit more stack up, but the amount is insignificant and not worth worrying about.

i like Thomastik's and silk wrapped ends especially. i think they look classy. imo they have a modern tone to them that i find doesn't work all that well with my vintage dirtbag guitars but i'll probably put them on something newer when i get a chance.

use what ever method works best for you and make your wraps clean and tight and trim off those ends. or you can leave one long and park a cigarette on it.

how can somebody put a name on a method for wrapping strings?