Playing with cracked top...

[fazool]

Originally Posted by DaveKell

Here's the link to instructions I followed.http://en.allexperts.com/q/Guitar-Ma...-tight-top.htm. I researched this thoroughly before attempting it and the results were quite satisfactory. The crack can no longer be flexed downward.

egads...another one of those all-in-one how to sites like ehow


utter rubbish ....all of them

[DaveKell]

Originally Posted by fazool

egads...another one of those all-in-one how to sites like ehow


utter rubbish ....all of them

Here is the guy's profile who wrote the article: Anything concerning building, tuning, theory of construction. Specialist in finishing (40 years' experience); extensive knowledge of Rickenbacker instruments of all vintages. Rickenbacker factory connection on personal level; ONLY licensed Rickenbacker luthier in the world.

Member of American Guild of Luthiers


My guess is he knew what he was talking about. Plus, what he described worked perfectly for a first timer on a crack repair. Geez, it was just a few drops of vinegar!

[Jackknifegypsy]

No, it is not a recipe for disaster, necessarily.

While no one can predict what time and tide will do, I have a Dieter Hopf Classical guitar that has had a lengthy crack in the lower bout, from the lower front edge to 3/4 of the way to the soundhole, about 2 inches from the upper edge, looking down on the guitar, due to extreme temperature changes when I stored it improperly.

It hasn't worsened in 20 years, while being thru more than one temperature and humidity change. I've been tempted to get it repaired or superglue it myself but I can detect no difference in how it sounded before and after the crack appeared, so I am leaving well enough alone.

I am surprised at how resilient the Spruce wood is in not shrinking and widening the gap.

[mustache79]

Originally Posted by DaveKell

Man, HOW many times do I have to point out it was in the instructions I followed? I think the function of it was to help quickly evaporate moisture out of the glue when it was ironed into the crack. It worked great. As for trading it for the "pristine" Ovation I owned up until a few months back, I keep my guitars in pristine condition. It's an OCD I have and this one with a visible crack is driving me nuts. I could learn to live with it because of the sound, but the one I could trade it for sounds great too, as well as being a limited edition run. I still haven't made up my mind and may end up having to flip a coin!

If I had to choose between two good sounding guitars; one with a crack and one without, I'd choose the one without...

If you're OCD (I am for real) about your guitars, that crack will always leave you second guessing yourself. But, I have learned to live with imperfection in my instruments, and life, just fine, but then, it's mostly due to limited resources. As you can see in my signature, all of my instruments are inexpensive "B stock" pieces.

Good luck with your choice.

[fazool]

Originally Posted by DaveKell

Here is the guy's profile who wrote the article: Anything concerning building, tuning, theory of construction. Specialist in finishing (40 years' experience); extensive knowledge of Rickenbacker instruments of all vintages. Rickenbacker factory connection on personal level; ONLY licensed Rickenbacker luthier in the world.

Member of American Guild of Luthiers


My guess is he knew what he was talking about. Plus, what he described worked perfectly for a first timer on a crack repair. Geez, it was just a few drops of vinegar!

Perhaps you are right and I was generalizing. I just get frustrated when I go to those non-specific self-help (do everything in the world) sites and there is total crap posted. Google sends me thee all the time when I look stuff up and its just a big advertisement waystation. I do a lot of computer and auto repair work so I am always looking stuff up. Those sites are the worst and I guess I would never go there for info....like "hmmmm I wonder if I can do my own appendix removal?.,....I know, Ill check on eHow!"

This guys credentials sounded like he is legit and knowledgeable. I just hate the site.

[YamaYairi]

The advice may be totally fine, I just don't know what the chemistry of adding vinegar to the glue will do. I doubt that it evaporates out. The water in the vinegar evaporates but you still have an acidic solid left over that will do God knows what. A few drops is likely of no concern.
If you want advice on guitar repair the go to site is:
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/pagelist.html
If you want to buy books on the subject, these authors have great books:
Dan Erlewine, Frank Ford, Hideo Kamimoto.

[redir]

In the 20 years I've been building and repairing I've never heard of the vinegar trick either. So DaveKell that is why most of us with experience are questioning it. I am not saying it's wrong it's just not common. I would like to know what his reasoning is in it. For all I know he could be an organic chemist too! Having said that, diluting with water is definitely common and is actually in the Titebond literature. You can safely dilute Titebond to 10% and have a very strong joint. Distilled water is recommended.

His advice on CA was spot on. CA will definitely leave a noticeable glue line. I do however think CA is appropriate for interior cleats, though I prefer Titebond for that myself. The best method for gluing in cleats is to use powerful magnets to get the proper location and for an adequate clamp.

As my mom always said, 'there is more than one way to skin a cat.' Of course we always had dogs growing up, I have cats now so I don't repeat that one around the house.

=^,^=

[tadol]

Vinegar is sometimes used to soften AR glue, so I guess adding a tiny bit may be an attempt to create a slightly softer bond, or maybe it extends the working time a bit. Whatever, I'm glad it worked for you -

I'd keep the guitar you enjoy better. A few minor dings, a repair, a cleated crack - those are minor issues that any guitar that goes out into the real world and gets played may eventually have to deal with, and if dealt with properly, are no cause for concern at all.

[DaveKell]

Originally Posted by tadol

Vinegar is sometimes used to soften AR glue, so I guess adding a tiny bit may be an attempt to create a slightly softer bond, or maybe it extends the working time a bit. Whatever, I'm glad it worked for you -

I'd keep the guitar you enjoy better. A few minor dings, a repair, a cleated crack - those are minor issues that any guitar that goes out into the real world and gets played may eventually have to deal with, and if dealt with properly, are no cause for concern at all.

I finally realized this is the Ovation I'm supposed to keep. The one I could have traded back for is a 40th anniv Balladeer reissue. In the few months I owned it, I was trying different strings on it constantly and could never get the sound I remembered from my Glen Campbell Ovation I foolishly sold some 35 years ago. While I like the shiny bowl on the Balladeer reissue, this Elite feels like a more substantial instrument. And, I don't have to play it mic'd like the Balladeer in an ensemble that wants me to return to playing with them. The sound of the cedar top played fingerstyle is exquisite. I actually used one of my hand painted pinstriping brushes and mixed up a color from polyurethane striping paint that completely hid the crack from view. It's like it never even happened. Plus, I got this Elite from a guy who was down on his luck and sold it to me for $200 less than the going rate for one. Aside from UPS damaging it, I came out pretty good in the end.