Finish repair of top crack

[mirwa]

Lets see if this pic comes up,

This is the guitar after removing all the old glue and getting it clean, now I will ensure humidity is stable before commencing any repair

[runamuck]

Don't humidify it until you get the glue removed. You want the cracks to remain open until it's completely cleaned up.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by ynor

Then glue the crack with liquid hide glue...

Franklin, who makes Titebond, has, for decades, offered a bottled, ready-to-use liquid hide glue. Instrument makers have had mixed results with it. About a year ago, I was speaking with a Franklin representative who stated that they had just reformulated their liquid hide glue. Based on the 100% failure rate - as soon as the weather gets hot and humid, the glue joints failed - I experienced, I have had no interest in trying their reformulated liquid hide glue.

I have had success on the things that I've used Old Brown liquid hide glue, as well as fish glue.

However, my suggestion for this repair is to use Titebond or similar aliphatic resin glue and avoid liquid hide glue. Liquid hide glue might be a valid choice for the cleats, since the stuff is very tacky and the cleat can probably be applied without clamps. (I'd prefer to use strong magnets as clamps, and chose a different glue.)

[mirwa]

Yes, glue choice is as important as every other part of the repair.

On spruce / maple and any light coloured wood, I prefer not using titebond / ca or epoxies, I find they can stain or affect my finish clear and or colour coats.

I am an avid fan of titebond original due to its working time, so I use titebond on any back up cleats or for gluing cracks on darker woods like rosewood, ebony even mahoganys.

For doing a crack repair on a spruce soundboard, I will use hide glue, not the rubbish you get in a bottle but proper mix it yourself hide glue.

Steve

[mirwa]

Double up..

[mirwa]

Did you pick it all out and start again?