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  #16  
Old 02-20-2016, 11:38 PM
johna2u johna2u is offline
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H6303 - Sovereign
Acoustic flatop - Natural
Production year(s) : 1972 (other years possible, not verified)
Late version of the H1203

price Original price

1972 : $109.95
http://harmony.demont.net/model.php?id=176#

Here are some more pictures of it.

One piece solid mahogany back. No seams.



Definitely a rosewood fingerboard. Can anybody tell if it is Brazilian?


Very pretty ribbon mahogany sides. All solid.



It really is in great shape.


The bridge is rosewood but needs serious help.
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Last edited by johna2u; 02-21-2016 at 08:53 AM.
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  #17  
Old 02-21-2016, 04:35 AM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johna2u View Post

The reason I hesitate to just shim it and glue it is I am not an experienced luthier. So there is a very good chance I will get the angle wrong. Glue the neck on crooked or some other stupid maneuver. If I bolt it on I would have a second chance at getting it right. Or a third or a forth.
You won't get the angle wrong if you calculate correctly how much to pare off the heel, and mark the cutting line accurately.

As far as shimming the dovetail goes, it's just trial and error doing multiple dry fits until you get the shims fitting right, and then , and only then, do you apply glue.

I don't have thousands of resets under my belt, but I can tell you that my first one went off perfectly, simply because I took the time to work out the parameters involved, and went about things logically. You can do the same ... it might take you all day, but so what ?
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  #18  
Old 02-21-2016, 08:46 AM
johna2u johna2u is offline
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So my proposal to add a bolt would be virtually the same process as a regular glued in reset. I'm not proposing cutting off the tongue as demonstrated in the links I included. I would keep everything intact. Just once I got everything fitting perfectly I would bolt it to lock it in place instead of glue it. That would eliminate the need to steam it apart in the future. Why is gluing better?

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  #19  
Old 02-21-2016, 08:58 AM
johna2u johna2u is offline
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What should I do about this Bridge. It has been ground down in front in an attempt to lower the action. I was thinking of sanding the altered part flat and gluing some new wood on top to reshape it. But maybe I should replace it with a pin Bridge. The bottom has a curve to it to match the arch of the top.



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  #20  
Old 02-21-2016, 09:19 AM
Wuchak Wuchak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johna2u View Post
So my proposal to add a bolt would be virtually the same process as a regular glued in reset. I'm not proposing cutting off the tongue as demonstrated in the links I included. I would keep everything intact. Just once I got everything fitting perfectly I would bolt it to lock it in place instead of glue it. That would eliminate the need to steam it apart in the future. Why is gluing better?

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You got a killer deal on this one!

The relative merits of bolt vs glue on sound are endlessly debated. Both are used to make wonderful instruments. The usual argument is that a glued dovetail joint provides superior contact to transmit vibrations while a bolt on is easier to service and can provide the same contact. The joints are designed to be attached by one method or the other so just changing the attachment method from glue to bolt might hold the neck on but it will not be as optimal as gluing it or a joint that was designed to be bolt on.

In this case glue is better because that's the original construction and it's a 40 year old solid wood US made musical instrument that's worth fixing properly. : )
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  #21  
Old 02-21-2016, 09:27 AM
johna2u johna2u is offline
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OK. I'm convinced. That is what I suspected. The tone will be better if glued. Making it one organic unit from head to tail. I am thinking I will probably just have it done when I can afford it.

As I mentioned earlier I used to have an H1260 which is the model Jimmy Page used on Stairway to Heaven. Even though I miss that old guitar I must say I like this one better.

I'm excited to get it back into shape.

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  #22  
Old 02-21-2016, 10:57 AM
Wuchak Wuchak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johna2u View Post
...I'm excited to get it back into shape....
I am excited for you! I can't wait to hear how this project proceeds. I predict a huge grin on your face when you get to string it up after the reset, followed by years of enjoyment.
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  #23  
Old 02-21-2016, 12:03 PM
johna2u johna2u is offline
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Well after focusing on it so much over the last few days I finally noticed the saddle. It was a piece of corian I got from the tech at a local music store. As I recall the nut and saddle were missing when I first bought it. I got a nut that fit pretty well but I really had no idea how to shape a saddle. So straight flat and sloppy wedged in with a piece of a business card to take up the slack in the slot. I'm ashamed to say I did this myself.

I remembered I had the old tusq saddle from my Taylor when I had the neck reset. I put it on the Harmony and holy moly the tone just jumped up about a thousand percent. It sounds every bit as good as my Taylor. The action is so high now above the 6th fret you would get a nose bleed if you try to play up there, but on the lower frets it plays just fine. I actually think the Bridge is fine and workable. Just needs the reset and a proper set up.

I've been a member of this forum about a month now and I have learned more in that time than I have in my last 48 years of playing!

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Last edited by johna2u; 02-21-2016 at 02:04 PM.
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  #24  
Old 02-21-2016, 01:24 PM
johna2u johna2u is offline
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Here is a great video on this model by a guy that collects them.

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  #25  
Old 02-21-2016, 05:10 PM
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Bill Kraus Bill Kraus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johna2u View Post
H6303 - Sovereign
Acoustic flatop - Natural
Production year(s) : 1972 (other years possible, not verified)
Late version of the H1203

price Original price

1972 : $109.95
http://harmony.demont.net/model.php?id=176#

Here are some more pictures of it.

One piece solid mahogany back. No seams.



Definitely a rosewood fingerboard. Can anybody tell if it is Brazilian?


Very pretty ribbon mahogany sides. All solid.



It really is in great shape.


The bridge is rosewood but needs serious help.
The pores and grain on the fingerboard say Indian rosewood to me, the bridge looks more like Brazilian.
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  #26  
Old 02-21-2016, 10:44 PM
Truckjohn Truckjohn is offline
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Those instruments were well built and worthwhile instruments - not bottom of the barrel trash. Just because they don't command huge collector prices does not mean they don't have musical instrument mojo or merit.

I believe that in today's market - a properly done neck reset will increase the value vs one with a wonky neck set (which is most of them).

Just look at what prices of quality non-Martin/Gibson parlor guitars have been doing in the last 5 years - especially those which have been competently restored to proper playing condition. Old solid wood guitars that were treated as trash previously are bringing $600 to well over $1k and the prices only seem to be going up.

I vote for taking it to a good luthier and having the work done properly.

Thanks
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  #27  
Old 02-22-2016, 12:36 AM
Hot Vibrato Hot Vibrato is offline
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I love those old harmony flat tops. Great sounding, cool looking guitars, and yes - ALL of them either need a neck reset, or have already had a neck reset.

I did a reset the neck on one recently and it was very similar to doing a Martin reset, except the Harmony has a maple neck instead of mahogany. The dovetail and heel are shaped very similarly to a Martin's.

I think I read somewhere that you're a furniture restorer. Since you have that background, you would be an excellent candidate for actually doing a proper reset, and you could not ask for a better guitar for your first neck reset.

The main problem with doing it right, is that specialized tools are required, which aren't cheap. That said, a clever woodworker can make a neck removal fixture. I made my own - copied it directly from Stew Mac's design, except mine has maple knobs which I tuned myself, rather than the plastic knobs included on the stock unit. The steaming machine can be made from a home espresso machine, with a hose attached, and a needle at the end of the hose for injecting steam.

I know those Harmonys aren't very valuable, but they're definitely cool enough to deserve a proper reset. If you think you might be up to the job, it sure would be a worthwhile project. As cheesy as those alternative methods are, I suppose it's preferable to do it that way than not at all, but I hate to see a cool guitar (even a cheap one) get butchered.

If you weigh the value of the guitar against the amount of time involved to do the job right, it doesn't make much sense from a financial standpoint to do a proper reset. But those old Harmony flat tops are the perfect guinea pig for someone who's learning how to do a neck reset, so if you ever wanted to do one, now's your chance.
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  #28  
Old 02-22-2016, 12:59 AM
johna2u johna2u is offline
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Yes I am a furniture restorer so wood is no stranger to me. It does look like it takes a bit more finesse than knocking a chair apart though. I've watched plenty of videos on neck resets and I probably could do one. Maybe I will just take it a step at a time. I'm sure I could pull the neck. Once that is done I can decide if I want to reset it myself or take the bits and pieces to someone and have it done. I would prefer to do it myself actually.

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  #29  
Old 02-22-2016, 06:21 PM
johna2u johna2u is offline
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Well got a bid from the guy that worked on my Taylor. 375.00 to 400.00 We will see. Thankfully I don't have the time or money to do anything right now so this could be a while.
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  #30  
Old 02-23-2016, 12:13 PM
johna2u johna2u is offline
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This looks pretty straightforward. I think I can do it.



Might build this to help pop the neck off.


Have to start collecting the stuff I need for the job.

24" metal straight edge -
6" metal ruler - (hard to find these with markings all the way to the end)

exacto knife-

Pressure cooker - Check
Heat resistant hose -
Hose clamps -
Ball inflator adaptor - check
portable hot plate - check
heat resistant Gloves -

soldering iron - (I have a burn in knife. That should work)
small nippers ground down to pull the fret -

Small drill bit - check
drill-check

aluminum wrapped boards -
iron - check
Paint scrapers with rounded corners and tapered edges -

cheap C clamp, cut to make neck puller -
straps - check

sharp chisels - check

220 sand paper cut into strips

small clamps to clamp neck back on - check
custom fit blocks to glue fretboard -
appropriate glue - Hide? Fish? Regular Elmers white wood glue? (White wood glue is what we use for sheet caning chairs. We use it so the cane can be removed again in future with vinegar and water.)

A day off to do all this.
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Nashville N500D (Martin D45 knock off)
Harmony Sovereign H6303
Taylor 414ce
Silver Creek T-160
Fender cd-140s
Guild GAD-50atb

Last edited by johna2u; 02-23-2016 at 03:12 PM.
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