#1
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Milling the edge of my telecaster for binding
To give my Telecaster a binding, I do not only have to mill all around and against the cutter direction,
but also at the thin expiring two tips of the body to the neck. (= body-neck transition) What should I note there so that nothing breaks out at both thin tips?
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#2
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Have you researched a service that can do it for you. I wouldn't attempt if myself, and I have extensive experience with routers and wood working. If I were building anew guitar no problem. Modifying a factory Fender, a entire different story.
Ed
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"Quote The Raven, NEVERMORE !" |
#3
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Ed, I don´t modify a guitar, I´m building one and have just finished the epoxy filling of the surface.
It is my first electric guitar but I have done two acoustic builds before, one 12-string with a cutaway and one 8-string baritone sunburst. I´m just a bit curious concerning the thin expiring two tips of the neckpocket...
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#4
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Quote:
The binding will also hide small chip-outs. |
#5
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Thanks for your kind help!
I will have a look into my scrap wood to find a protective filler block...or make one.
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#6
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Quote:
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Fred |
#7
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Quote:
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#8
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Router until you get within 1/8" of the edges. Then complete the cuts with a razor saw (by hand). I've done it a few times; not too complicated.
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#9
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Quote:
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#10
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...routing...
I´ve made the plunge and routed the body.
I enlarged the baseplate of the Makita with a larger acrylic glass plate to have more security. (see pic) Then I made a protective wood block for the neck pocket.(other pic) I tested the celluloid stripe and acetone on a scrap piece. It works as it should. (pic) I will do that this afternoon and hope it sticks all over. What I dont know by now is how long the curing will take. A test pic of the body with loose binding strip - just to see if it´s ok.
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#11
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I would let binding glued with acetone sit for several days before scraping. I usually use CA glue so I don't have to wait, but I've used acetone in the past.
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Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia. |
#12
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When I noticed that my testpiece of the celluloid stripe and acetone had cured very soon,
I did the binding and gave the curing about an hour and took off all the adhesive tapes. Everything was ok as I had thought. Then I squeezed a filler into a few spots, waited another half an hour to dry and scraped and sanded all flush. Now the body has just been painted with a layer of epoxy to cover any sanding traces. I hope overnight it will have hardened to sand it smoothly. Maybe CA glue would be somewhat easier but today I couldn´t get some (=sunday!) Next time I´ll try that.
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |