#1
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CA glue for crack on mahogany back?
I built an acoustic guitar 2 years ago, and there has been a crack in the back lower bout about 4-6" long. I intend to scrape the finish down to bare wood, and was thinking of using CA glue along the length of the crack to repair it.
Is CA going to inhibit the finish in any way? If it's an acceptable repair with CA, which viscosity would be best? Thin, medium? I used Xpoxy as a filler, then used clear Emtech 6000 water based for my finish. There are some other places on the guitar that I need to touch up as well. Thanks much for any advice, Bob ps. I did look back several pages on this forum but haven't seen anything yet. Will continue to look, but if anyone has some good suggestions, please let me know. |
#2
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Without seeing what you have, my general preference is to use Titebond or similar glue applied before removing the finish. Cleanup is easier prior to removing the finish. Probably, you'll want to reinforce the crack from the inside.
Unless it is essential to remove the finish, I wouldn't. However, water-based finishes don't dissolve previous coats, leaving witness lines. So unless you are going to strip the entire back... |
#3
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Mahogany is not good with superglue, yellow glues are the way to go.
Rosewood on the other hand loves superglue Always cleat a crack Steve
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#4
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It's generally not a good idea to use CA. It's great stuff for many applications but imho visible cracks are not one of them unless you know what you are doing and even then the alternatives are better. You can make BIG mistakes with CA even when experienced. Not just in the way it looks but in it's function. Something like Titebond or Fish Glue will give you plenty of open time to get your set up right and the have time to clamp everything tight and will be real easy to clean up as well.
CA is awesome, I love it but sometimes it's better safe then sorry without it. |
#5
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The only time I'd use CA is if the crack is already perfectly aligned and closed. The short open time means that if you don't get it set exactly right in time, you've created a problem.
Otoh, it can be good for the right crack, depending on the finish as well, as sometimes you can sand it back to the finish and buff and it will gloss up. It depends. With titebond, you have plenty of time to work it in and get things set. As Charles said, don't remove the finish. If there's titebond on the finish after the crack is closed and dry, it will wash off with warm water Maybe some pics would help... |