Older Taylors vs. Newer Taylors - Page 2

JayGon · #16 04-20-2001, 03:30 PM

Happened to speak with the tech (Taylor recommended) who has done other stuff for me and he said he could do that (buffing). But I think I'm inclined to leave it alone and just get a gloss finish guitar when the right time arrives.

Appreciate all the advice. The 97 models I mentioned have been hanging there a while and may have signs of some slight drying, but probably nothing some humidity won't help. Anything else is just age, I guess. The 714 has chrome grovers on it. Did they come with silver vs gold back then?

Jay

gmccall · #17 04-24-2001, 03:33 PM

Howdy,

ummmmmmmm ...just a note FYI...

The Tech sheets are still on, or are back on the Taylor Web site.

Taylor Tech Sheets

-grm
-

Wanker · #18 04-28-2001, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JayGon:
Also, has anyone noticed the coloration in the ovangkol in the 2001 400s? It appears to be much lighter and varied (yellows and olive undertones). I think it is more interesting than the brown in my 2000 410, which lookd more like rosewood or walnut. Is this good or bad as far as the quality of the wood?

Jay

I saw several of these with the lighter colorful sides. The neck was lighter too. They really looked nice.

JayGon · #19 04-30-2001, 09:17 AM

I hadn't mentioned the necks before, but they are a lighter mahogany that looks good with the newer ovangkol. As I mentioned before, I think Taylor is missing the boat a bit in not glossing the ovangkol. These newer woods would look even better if the grains were clearer. Just my $.02, but I don't own a gazillion dollar company.

Jay

twinreverb · #20 05-13-2001, 01:11 PM

My 2 cents: I've always heard that you DON'T polish a satin finish... (1) lightly dampen a soft cotton cloth with only water,(2)wipe the satin surface; (3)then use a dry soft cotton cloth to finish the job. That's it!

[ 05-13-2001: Message edited by: twinreverb ]

jif6251 · #21 05-13-2001, 01:47 PM

I called Taylor a few weeks ago and they said to either use the damp cloth & dry method mentioned above or Ken Smith Pro Formula polish on a satin finish. The Taylor guy said to apply the polish fairly light and not to rub it in too much.

Jim

rambo · #22 05-14-2001, 05:56 PM

I believe one of the reasons you get an immediate response from a satin finish is because of its {thinness}.Their is not alot of protection,thus the lower duribility.Damp, not wet cloth is the most extreme I have used.Notice some of the great sounding brass instruments,{no,to little finish on the instrument,allows the instrument to project but offers little protection and not as much eye candy}.It makes me feel really old when the talk of the old Taylors is something of 90 or 80 vintage.I have a 78 855,other than a few nicks and wear scratches,is pristine. No waves in the finish{good Ohio humidity?}. I just had a conversation with my 20 year old about his favorite H.S. music being played on the local oldies station.Wood batches will also vary in many aspects {color ,tone quality,longevity}depending on availability of cut.The final test is the instrument itself.

JayGon · #23 05-16-2001, 04:27 PM

Just came from looking at the 1997 714 and 814c and both seem to have a slight dip in the neck at the 14th fret to the end. I believe they have the older neck design, unlike my 2000 410, which is as flat as an anvil.

Has anyone had any experience with the older neck designs? Resets? Should I shy away from these? There also appears to be slight protrusion of the fret ends. Is this correctable with humidification?

Jay

TheTaylor310 · #24 05-17-2001, 11:54 AM

Hello!

With most other Taylors i've seen (except the 300/400 Series), there doesn't seem to be much of a real difference... except when we talk about necks. That's a whole another thing in itself...

Anyway... i've noticed that with 300 and 400 Taylors, there seems to be a slight differentiation with its wood. Like my 310 for example: it was made in June 1999 and compared to newer 31xs, my Sapele has nice figuring and has a beautiful bright maroonish colouration to it. Whenever i put the guitar towards a light and move the body, it SHINES. Just like when you see beautiful Koa or Maple shine in the light, that's the same with mine. I know it's not the expensive "figured" Sapele, but hey... i'm happy

However, 2000 3xxs don't seem to do that. In fact, they are lighter in tone (colour-wise) and have much more visible streaks. Of course, nothing's wrong with that... just compared to mine, it's a stark difference in appearance. Whenever i've spotted other 1999 300 Taylors, they resemble the quality of my 310.

(So, you can imagine if i ever lose my 310... i'd be pretty darn upset!)

The big trade-off, however, is that the 2000/2001 300 Taylors seem to have better Sitka tops. The quality of its colour and grain pattern seems more like Englemann to me. My Sitka is goldish-amber... guess she's aging! I shouldn't complain about this but i rather like the whitish tone of Englemann...

I also notice a difference in 400 Taylors too. Guess you're not the only one, Jay!

Well... enough of my rant. Guess this is all is the good thing about Taylor. We have variety!

rambo · #25 05-20-2001, 01:52 PM

The older neck style is very good,and I believe it is possibly easier to rework than a dovetail joint.How often do you need to reset the neck? Dramatic change in the instrument,change in playing style,string gauge.I have a late 70s guitar that has not and still does not need a neck reset.