#1
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truss rod channel depth?
I'm working on a neck replacement project and I have a Martin truss rod to install in the new neck. The instructions that I have indicate that the truss rod should be lower at the neck block end than at the headstock but there's no real dimension specified.
How deep should I rout the channel? the instructions I have also indicate that the truss rod should be in contact with the top of the neck block but that it should have some side to side movement. Is this correct? recommended glue for installing the truss rod? I'm not crazy about using epoxy. It's too easy to get the proportions wrong and get a mess that never sets up. thanks for any help you can offer. |
#2
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First, what type of truss rod is it? An adjustable rod or non-adjustable? Square tube or single threaded rod or double rod? From your description, it sounds like you are installing something different than the guitar originally had. Knowing where you bought it, including model type, will help those here understand what you have and what you are trying to do. Also, knowing a bit about the existing arrangement that you are replacing as it related to the body, if at all.
The type of rod/model - and whether you want access to it from the head or the soundhole - determines how it is installed. Many two-part epoxies are forgiving in the exactness of the ratios. It may be that you simply need a better brand of epoxy - they are not all created equal. |
#3
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single adjustable rod made by (for) Martin and purchased through their guitar makers connection. I'm installing it in a Martin neck that doesn't have the channel routed.
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#4
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I've never installed a Martin single rod truss rod; I only use double rods. (If asked, I would not recommend a single rod.) Their webpage provides virtually no information and only a small picture. In the absence of further information, I'd rather not risk providing you with questionable information related to your application.
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#5
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Tom: In terms of depth at the guitar end I think the main concern is that you can get at the nut with your adjustment tool.If that leaves a space on top of rod ,you can use a filler strip when you glue in your rod. The freedom to move may refer to the nut rather than the rod. I like to have a very easy push fit rather than a loose fit for rod itself.I use epoxy that I get from Lee Valley and use a gram scale when mixing. Have not had a problem yet.............knock on spruce..!!!
Tom
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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything |
#6
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Is that a square channel with a rod inside it like Stewart Mac sell as a martin-style truss rod. If it is, the routed channel is normally is flat. A compression rod with an anchor at one end usually has a curve in the routed channel. Definitely think about nut access though.
Jeff |