#1
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Keeping chisels safe
Hello everyone!
I was making a work bench for myself to keep my workspace de-cluttered (at least that's the thought). I was making a little chubby to keep my chisels in, the thought being having them rest in a little box on cedar so that the edge won't get worn at all. But, I've also heard it's good to keep tools in sand mixed with a little oil to keep the rust off and keep things sharp. But, I know sand is abrasive, and can scratch. So, would putting chisels edge first in a bit of sand be a good idea? Or would it do more harm than good? |
#2
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I’ve not heard that putting tips in sand/oil would prevent damage, but it probably would. It’d be messy, though.
I like tip protectors. When I’m done using an edge tool and not ready to resharpen it, the tip cover goes back on. Tip covers are cheap at woodworking shops, and when I can’t find one, I make one out of Sugru, the moldable plastic. The key thing is to remember that while steel is hard, the dimensions of a sharpened edge are surprisingly tiny and as such are prone to damage from relatively innocuous contact. So protect your sharpened edges - tool roll, tip protectors, sand/oil, whatever - and your tools will stay sharper. |
#3
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Personally, I'd never store my chisels in or near sand. The backs of my chisels are polished to a mirror shine at 8000 grit. Typical sand would scratch them.
I store my most used chisels in a wall-mounted rack that I made by drilling some holes in a 2 x 4. One of those sets I've had for more than three decades. I found that a light dusting of lacquer has kept the rust off of them in the areas that don't see sharpening. I've also found that a leather roll eliminates rust on steel planes and chisels. I don't know why it does, but it does. It also protects them when not in use. My favourite is this one: https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products...ases&node=4108 I haven't found treated "plane socks" to work particularly well, but better than nothing. You can also lightly dust surfaces with a rust retardant, such as GlideCote, or similar: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop...urface-sealant. I've found GlideCote works pretty well. I also don't want oil on my hand tools. The oil transfers to my hands and to my woodwork. I don't want that. |
#4
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I have some, but have never thought of using it for that. Good idea.
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#5
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Yeah, I would never store them in sand.
As far as keeping them from rusting, look at light oil or keep them coated in paraffin. That will seal them from oxygen. Also remember you want to keep your chisels very sharp so that means frequent sharpening. Keep a leather stroupe close and use it often. Jack
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#6
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To keep rust off my turning tools, I rub the ends with paraffin (wax) or if I dont have any handy, I'll use a crayon. It's harmless, removes itself upon first use and keeps moisture from touching the metal. I imagine this would work on my chisels as well.
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#7
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Quote:
And yeah, Sugru is awesome stuff. It works to make better handles on finger planes, too. |
#8
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I hang my everyday chisels in a rack, and keep my specialty chisels lined up in a drawer. I have never given any consideration to oxidization, nor have I seen any.
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#9
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Rust? Never seen that on any of my chisels or planes. I work in a very tightly controlled shop though. I use water stones too but make sure to towel dry them off when done.
My chisels are either on a bench with nothing else around them or on a magnetic bar rack where the tip hangs free. |
#10
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Traditionally, the japanese used camelia oil wiped on their edge tools and swords to keep them from rusting. A bamboo knuckle, with a roll of cloth jammed in, filled with camelia oil, was wiped across freshly sharpened edges. Its non-toxic, food safe ( if not modified ) and works as well or better than most other materials. Worth considering -
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More than a few Santa Cruz’s, a few Sexauers, a Patterson, a Larrivee, a Cumpiano, and a Klepper!! |
#11
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In the Mid-Atlantic I have spent years in a shop in a damp basement and years in a shop in a not-so damp basement and have not yet seen any rust. I might let them go for 6 months to see if there is a problem. I hang mine like Charles does on a 1 X 2 with holes and slots to get them in and out easily.
One very old craftsman I knew in the 70's kept a softball sized ball of sheep's wool in his shop and when he was done with a tool he would wipe it with the wool. The lanolin in the wool lightly coated the tool. All of his tools were shiny shiny shiny with no fingerprints or rust rash anywhere - most looked brand new. You can make custom, form-fitting covers for all your chisels and gouges easily. Wrap blue tape around the tip backwards - sticky side out - a couple of wraps. Go up the blade about 1-1/2". Dip the tip in liquid tool handle rubber a few times, let dry, slide the cover off the tool and snip a clean line with a pair of scissors. Voila - tight fitting protection. I think sand is not a good idea Ed |
#12
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For my smaller chisels, I use the plastic foam wine corks (not the true cork corks). Just jam 'em in. No worries yet.
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Yamaha FG-411-12 String Oscar Teller 7119 classical (built in 1967) and a bunch of guitars and mandolins I've made ... OM, OO, acoustic bass, cittern, octave mandolin, mandola, etc. ... some of which I've kept. |
#13
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I too keep my chisels in the often-used 2x2 with holes drilled with Forstner bits. If you have a shop where humidity is a problem then store them in a drawer with a diaper pail deodorizer block (or other camphor source such as "moth balls". That creates an environment in which to store your chisels that displaces oxygen so rust can't form.
The MUCH greater potential source to chisel edges in the everyday work environment is placing them on a work bench and having them roll off and hit the floor. If my chisels don't come with a flat surface on the handle then I give them a few seconds on the belt sander. It's saved a LOT of work for me. The only place I think sand is appropriate is in the closed bag that I use as a fret buck for necks. |