#1
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Moving Guitar Strap Button
I prefer location 5. I think that is typical. But I see some used guitars with buttons on location 2 or 4. Not sure if that should stop me from considering the guitar. Probably not, but it does bother me. How big of a deal is it if the button was removed, the hole filled, and the button was moved to location 5? Would that hurt the resale? Hurt the structure? |
#2
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Location 5 is the most generally accepted among Martin owners, so if resale value (of a Martin) is a foremost consideration, then location 5 is the preferred option.
On some other guitars, with parallel heels, then location 4 is perfectly acceptable, and indeed preferable. Locations 1 & 2 are slightly dubious ... possible balance problems, and almost certainly a value destroyer. From a purely functional point of view, IMO an expertly installed position 3 is the optimum ... this was the preferred location for Doc Watson, and also, in more recent times, for the amazing John Doyle. |
#3
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Quote:
The used guitar I am thinking about happens to be a Gibson. Is Gibson the kind where location 4 is acceptable and perhaps preferred? |
#4
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With dark necks and heels, I do not think it hurts the value at all, on bright clean necks, I think it may be an eyesore if repaired in traditional way, but unlikely to affect resale value IMO.
For a price anything can be made invisible. Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#5
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I prefer to do away with the strap button altogether and run the strap to the headstock. That way you can do a whole bunch of great guitar moves like these:
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#6
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On my home made jobby, I have it in position 2 and can confirm, it sucks. Forces the strap to turn 90 degrees coming over your collarbone. I'd change it but I almost never play standing up anyway.
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disclaimer I don't know anything, everything I say is a guess, estimate, hearsay, or opinion. For your safety, don't assume anything I say is a fact. Research |
#7
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Me too, only I don't have any moves
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#8
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If the end-pin jack's strap attachment is less than confidence-inspiring for you, there's a dirt-simple fix. Here 'tis:
https://ibb.co/nztn88 The button for the other end of the strap is a standard (non-locking) type mounted on the treble side of the neck heel. |
#9
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What if you don't rotate it? Just straight down, so the pin goes through the other side.
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#10
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Position 5 is definitely the most common location. For me, personally, I don't like my left hand hitting it when I go up to play frets 12-15 (not too often). I have a new Eastman dred and I'm actually going with position 3 for that reason. But then, I'm a luthier and have no problem gluing in the little mahogany block to the insid of the rim to anchor it. That, and I don't foresee ever selling this guitar.
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#11
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My choice is position 2.
This enables the guitar to hang perfectly. When the time comes for these guitars to find other owners, the Straplock pins may be easily unscrewed and replaced with a pearl fretmarker, or if preferred, the end cap may be replaced.
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#12
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You've already got 5 strap buttons on there already, you don't need another one!
(Well, somebody had to say it...) I prefer position 5 because it helps with the balance of the guitar. I use flush mount Dunlop Strap-locs at both ends of the body and the strap hugs tight to the heel, so it doesn't have much effect on my access to the upper frets. That's important to me as I play 14 fret guitars and sometimes capo as high as the ninth fret. "Position 2" always results in a guitar that tips forward, at least for me. I've only owned one dread that had the strap button there, but it didn't take long for me to figure out that it wasn't working for me. Last edited by Rudy4; 08-12-2020 at 02:54 PM. |
#13
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For me it's 5...
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#14
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When I bought my new Martin dreadnought in 1983, I installed a strap button in position #3.
No regrets - it works well there for me, and it's where the button was on my first Martin in the 1960s. On most guitars, I recommend #5 - #2 for flat heels. It's a matter of conventionality and balance As a professional guitar mechanic, I routinely install buttons where the owner wants them, including all those pictured. If your only concern is resale value, then don't add one. . .
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Cheers, Frank Ford |
#15
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Quote:
My preference is position 5; to hell with all the worrying about value. But I'll try position 3 sometime.
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Taylor 815C '59 Gibson LG2 Washburn J4 jazz box, ebony tailpiece Gold Tone open back banjo Anon. mountain dulcimer Creaky old Framus 5/1 50 About 1/2 of Guitar One completed; currently intimidating me on account of the neck geometry. Stacks of mahogany, spruce, maritime rosewood, western red cedar Expensive sawdust |