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  #31  
Old 11-06-2016, 10:43 AM
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Are you monitoring your RH in that big open space?
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  #32  
Old 11-06-2016, 11:09 AM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Halcyon/Tinker View Post
Are you monitoring your RH in that big open space?


Yes sir I am. I sit at ~40 ish average.
It is an issue I'm working on a solution for. The space is actually 50' long;/ so it is sizable.
I'm fortunate because the air has been really dry naturally here lately.
That being said if it were humid season the dehumidifier I have running wouldn't be able to keep up


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  #33  
Old 11-06-2016, 11:32 AM
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~40ish is just right...
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  #34  
Old 11-06-2016, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
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~40ish is just right...


So ... How long does it take a box to react to a higher or lower humidity before noticeable changes happen in the wood.?


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  #35  
Old 11-07-2016, 06:11 PM
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Well at this point I'm trying to fit a dove tail. Just a learning process. Taking notes as I go... Not becoming frustrated. Trying again after a nights sleep



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  #36  
Old 11-10-2016, 04:20 PM
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Here are a few update pics.
I DO have an issue to contend with.
At the top, on the back, there is a gap between the purlfing and side binding. The binding is actually against the binding channel, but for some reason the purlfing channel got just a tad wider there and thus created a gap.
So, the purlfing is perfect against the top and side, but there's a gap between the binding and purlfing.
I plan on making some binding dust, it is plastic, and filling w ca. Then scrapping it clean again.
Anyway.... I love doing binding . I particularly enjoyed the wood purlfing. Yes the binding is plastic and purlfing wood. Because of this I had to glue in the purlfing, let it dry and then do the binding because of different glue types.
Here are a few pics
I haven't smoothed the sides yet.








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  #37  
Old 11-11-2016, 08:34 AM
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It looks good though and your really flying along!
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  #38  
Old 11-11-2016, 11:01 AM
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It looks good though and your really flying along!


Thanks for the compliment.
In the process of learning how to do some of this I'm seeing there are jumps to get over. Once a basic skill / process is learned (and yes yes yes I realize it takes MUCH practice to perfect) it tends to carry over to something else, thus in finding less issue in learning the "next step".
That said; there are still a few mysteries I have to figure out
Here is the binding and purlfing scraped smooth on the back sides and soundboard!



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  #39  
Old 11-12-2016, 03:54 PM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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The pic was before I really got things right... Remember.. ACE. Angle / center / elevation!




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  #40  
Old 11-14-2016, 09:25 AM
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today I'll be gluing on the fretboard to the neck.
I also got pilot holes drilled for the martin tuner machines. I'm trying to find a place where the correct bit sizes are laid out.. the martin guitar book that comes with the kit is ABSOLUTELY HORRIBLE for finding specifics in.

following that I'll need to come up with a way to hold the neck so that the fretboard and neck can be shaved down flush (right now there is extra width.

Then... on to fretting

masking off the bridge and neck areas and doing a pore fill on the body
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  #41  
Old 11-16-2016, 07:19 AM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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Interesting development.
So I attached my feet board to my neck (which I already fitted to the dovetail joint) now my neck won't seat. Not even really close.
I THINK the fretboard is holding it off at the very top.
So that sucks ... Live and learn.
That being said how do I fix this?
Do I slowly sand down that section of the top or do I try and thickness the fretboard down where it is hitting and leave the top alone?





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  #42  
Old 11-16-2016, 07:23 AM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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I chalked the top. This is where the hold off is



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  #43  
Old 11-18-2016, 04:11 PM
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Neck issue resolved .
Actually pore filling today !!




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  #44  
Old 11-19-2016, 11:54 AM
emmsone emmsone is offline
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Nice.
What are you using for pore filler? and what finish are you putting on over the top of that?
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  #45  
Old 11-19-2016, 01:17 PM
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I just looked through the last page of this thread and have these thoughts.

I bind with plastic using wood purflings occasionally, but I use celluloid rather bolteron. Celluloid disolves in acetone nicely, by comparison, and if you run a brush loaded with acetone over it seconds before you put PVA glue on it the connection is much stronger that I would have guessed. Strong enough that the binding will be completely destroyed before it will peel off.

When I glue on my neck I use a caul on the fingerboard as well as one under the top and minor discrepancies such as yours appears to be are as nothing. Since you have chosen to fret after assembly, as I do, any irregularities in the playing surface are easily remedied.
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