#61
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Realize too that this is an "open" forum, and unless you PM your discussion to someone, then it's basically open season. Otherwise this wouldn't be a forum. I agree that there is a lot of misinformation on the Web... but that is the reason folks come here, to hear from the guys and gals that actually do the work. But it's just like any trade or craft; there'll always be good and bad. |
#62
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Not John, but I don't think so. Martin switched to T-frets in 1934 and didn't introduce adjustable truss rods until 1985. IMO that was a result of two things - the then new Low Profile neck, and the 3/8" square tube which never held relief as well as the 1/2" steel T-bar.
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#63
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#64
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They went to 2-way rods around 2006. IME the 2-way rods are a bit more touchy. I don't like them and much prefer 1-way rods, and with a traditional Martin neck, I've never needed to force forward bow which is what a 2-way can do.
Martin had issues with the early Micarta fretboards back bowing under string tension with the 1-way truss rod loose. They introduced the 2-way rod to fix that, and when that worked out well, they made it standard to simplify parts inventory. I believe their problem was tight fret slots on the Micarta boards. They don't compress as much as ebony or rosewood and resulting tighter fret tangs induced a back bow. |
#65
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I should refrain.
In this mornings deliveries, (Store stock New Martin) authorised warranty repair for lowering the action and setting up. Three pictures grouped Picture 1 - Strings tuned, truss rod fully dis-engaged, measured relief 5" Picture 2 - Strings removed, truss rod fully dis-engaged, measured at 14th, 8" required to stabilise rocking of straight edge. Picture 3 - Close up of 14th fret and 8" gauge Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE Last edited by mirwa; 06-22-2016 at 10:37 PM. |
#66
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Steve, there may be issues with that guitar, but it has nothing to do with compression fretting as a method of controlling relief since Martin doesn't use compression fretting on adjustable truss rod guitars.
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#67
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Tom
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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything |
#68
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I have to say, I'm still confused. Can we back pedal to the beginning again?
The OP is about fixing a guitar with a non adjustable truss rod that has a bowed neck. That is a neck with too much relief. His solution was to level the neck. Whether you call that leveling or planing it's just semantics, the same thing. On a neck with too much relief leveling will remove a small amount of material from the area of the nut and possibly the body joint. Once strung back up to where string tension pulls in a bit of relief it ought to be good to go. The second solution is compression fretting. The theory there being that when you release string tension the fretboard will bow back to straight and then you put in wider frets so that when you put string tension back on the 'kerfs' of the fretboard don't close as much and hence the neck doesn't bow as much. That makes sense, however; even the experts who do compression fretting say that the first step in doing so is to level the fretboard. Hence my confusion. The only think I can think of is that compression fretting is good on instruments that have weak necks that bend a lot under tension. But regardless in either method apparently you start off by leveling. |
#69
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Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#70
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#71
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The one thing that everyone seems to agree on, is that we are talking about miniscule differences, mostly less than 0.01". That's pretty small.
I'm in the school that builds a little relief into the board, even though I use a two way rod. There's a couple of reasons, but the may not be relevant. Most people like a little more relief on the bass side, and the easiest way to get it is to sand/scrape/plane it into the board. By putting the relief into the board, you can put it where you want it, the truss rod doesn't always get it in exactly the right spot. That's kinda splitting hairs, but that's the nature of this topic. If the relief is in the board, all the truss rod has to do is hold the neck straight, and you still have the adjustability to change the relief if you need more or less than is built into the board. The important point is that differential relief across the board usually requires that to be built into the board.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#72
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Although the difference is miniscule, for lowest action even a couple thousandths could mean excessive buzz. Many people prefer the lowest action that doesn't buzz; I personally prefer the highest action that I can still play easily. |
#73
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Related to set up I get very bummed out if I tune down merely to a low D and it starts to buzz, let alone C.
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http://www.jessupegoldastini.com/ |
#74
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Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#75
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"interesting" bracing layout, to say the least ...
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