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  #106  
Old 03-21-2015, 12:28 PM
repete repete is offline
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It does need slots to keep the strings in place. I'm surprised they didnt provide one already slotted.

Since you already bought a bunch of expensive tools, I'll let you know there is a semi-cheap kit you can find on fleabay with nut files and a few other bits in a handy carrying case. It should be fine for you to get the job done. I remember them being around $20.

-r
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  #107  
Old 03-21-2015, 03:45 PM
Twilo123 Twilo123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repete View Post
It does need slots to keep the strings in place. I'm surprised they didnt provide one already slotted.

Since you already bought a bunch of expensive tools, I'll let you know there is a semi-cheap kit you can find on fleabay with nut files and a few other bits in a handy carrying case. It should be fine for you to get the job done. I remember them being around $20.

-r
you're the man! please pm me a link if you get a chance so i don't get the wrong one. i was looking last night at a kit and it was $200. was not looking forward to that!
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  #108  
Old 03-21-2015, 03:52 PM
Twilo123 Twilo123 is offline
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couple things today.

the dulcimer kit came so i received the extra binding i need to finish the bottom of the bouzouki so i took care of that (pic 1).

took the clamps off today on the fretboard (pic 2 & 3). for the most part it looked and felt fine. i did notice a small space where the neck/body meet (pic 4). as i stated in previous post this is where it was not level all the way through. now i know for next time.

ducimer kit came today and i started that one so i'll start another thread for that one (pic 5)

pic 1


pic 2


pic 3


pic 4


pic 5
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  #109  
Old 03-22-2015, 04:27 AM
repete repete is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twilo123 View Post
you're the man! please pm me a link if you get a chance so i don't get the wrong one. i was looking last night at a kit and it was $200. was not looking forward to that!
PM'd you a link. I hate to be seen as endorsing some other site and their product so I didnt post one here.

-r
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  #110  
Old 03-27-2015, 07:26 PM
Twilo123 Twilo123 is offline
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was away for a bit but back on it a little today.

was able to take off the tape from the back side binding (pic 1 & 2).

the next step according to instructions are to glue the nut however the nut did not come slotted. thanks to good peopz on here i was able to purchase hopefully a decent nut file set. may not be here for a bit as it's coming a long ways. once i have it though i will set out to shave down and cut the slots. in the meantime i will watch some videos on slotting nuts. i also received some guitar making books last couple of days and am starting to go through those.

question: my nut is plastic. i am reading that plastic is not good for nut. if i use the plastic now for practice and am not happy with it later on it is an easy switch out? do i just take the strings off, loosen glue with hot, wet rag, and scrape off to put on new one?



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  #111  
Old 03-27-2015, 07:39 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twilo123 View Post
i am reading that plastic is not good for nut.
There are different varieties of "plastic". Lots of theories and opinions on the use of various materials and their audible results. For a first instrument, a kit, plastic is fine. If you decide you want to experiment with the sound, you can install a bone one later.

Quote:
if i use the plastic now for practice and am not happy with it later on it is an easy switch out? do i just take the strings off, loosen glue with hot, wet rag, and scrape off to put on new one?
Glue the nut, if necessary, with the smallest dab of white glue or aliphatic resign glue (e.g. Titebond). Many will put the glue only on the face of the nut that abuts the end grain of the fingerboard. That way is will adhere sufficiently, but still be easy to remove. No need to glue the entire length of the nut.

To remove the nut, take a piece of scrap wood, place the wood against the fingerboard-face of the nut and give it one sharp blow with a hammer, with the strings off, of course. The nut will come right off.
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  #112  
Old 03-27-2015, 07:57 PM
Twilo123 Twilo123 is offline
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Originally Posted by Ned Milburn View Post
Titebond with a gluing caul and wax paper is fine as I mentioned earlier. CA glue is "crazy" for this operation, IMHO. Oversize veneers make it easier to glue, since the veneers skate when wet with clamping pressure. The overhang can be trimmed and bevelled or rounded for a really sophisticated look from both front and side.

If you want a rosewood veneer of any thickness let me know.
Ned, the rosewood veneer arrived. i will do as you state here for gluing veneer however you never replied about how to get the pegs hole on the veneer. do i trace out the holes ahead of time and drill them out? do i glue the veneer on first and then drill the holes out?

a buddy of mine suggested putting the veneer between 2 blocks with 1 block having the holes pre drilled out. that way the veneer will not split or anything when drilling out. he does not build guitars or anything but said that's what he would try if he were doing it. is this a good method maybe?
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  #113  
Old 03-29-2015, 11:11 PM
Twilo123 Twilo123 is offline
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After reading a little I see that my neck joint is classical Spanish style slotted headblock. Do mature luthiers use that style for irish bouzouki or do the use dovetail or even pinned mortise and tenon neck/body joint?
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  #114  
Old 03-30-2015, 06:40 AM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twilo123 View Post
Ned, the rosewood veneer arrived. i will do as you state here for gluing veneer however you never replied about how to get the pegs hole on the veneer. do i trace out the holes ahead of time and drill them out? do i glue the veneer on first and then drill the holes out?

a buddy of mine suggested putting the veneer between 2 blocks with 1 block having the holes pre drilled out. that way the veneer will not split or anything when drilling out. he does not build guitars or anything but said that's what he would try if he were doing it. is this a good method maybe?
Glue first. Don't use excessive glue. Just enough to get a fair amount of squeeze out to confirm 100% adhesion.

After it is dry, drill out the veneer with a bit from the back of the headstock using the present holes as a guide. Hold the headstock firmly against a piece of scrap wood (I use pine or MDF for these operations) to avoid tearing the exit point. Or clamp the scrap wood to the headstock.

If the ferrules for the tuners are press-in, you'll have to be very careful about drilling precisely. Many modern tuners come with screw in ferrules, in which case you wouldn't need to be so precise with your drilling since a slight oversize is no trouble. Of course, you don't want to exaggerate the oversizing if indeed you do drill oversize.

You will also have to think about the fit of the nut. Usually, headstocks are angled backwards. Nut is USUALLY (but not always) installed with a flat bottom (ie: parallel to neck/fingerboard angle) and mounted as deep as the neck-wood. The headstock veneer is usually (but not always) used as a back edge for the channel in which the nut sits - veneer on headstock side, fingerboard on the other side, and neck wood on bottom.

So the headstock veneer needs to be cut vertically (90 degrees to fingerboard plane) and is often between 4 to 5.5mm in width.

I glue the veneer before cutting it, and I cut it in one pass by hand with a very simple jig that clamps onto the neck and has a 90 degree surface against which I place my saw to cut. I use a flat piece of scrap wood against the other side of the saw to ensure it stays steadily on the jig plane.

Just shout if you want me to post a photo.
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Ned Milburn
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