#16
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redir, thx for your reply.
i wanted to get the plans from djangobooks, but, they charged me 80 dollars for posting, and the plans were just 50 bucks. i would not be happy with a cd set, but i will chase the other plans you recomanded. i love playing my selmer replica, i love the sound and the action is fantasic. i seem to remember, you said you had the sides laminated by somebody else, maybe thats what i should do as well, problem is, i would have to cut the venner, myselfe, because i want to use australian sented rosewood dysoxylum fraseranum, for the outside. i have researched (selmer) guitar building for quite a while, and picked quite a few gems here and there, so i know a selmer replica with solid sides and back is not a selmer... i would try to use, sented rosewood, poplar (upright grain) and inside mahogony. i suspect tho soft poplar venner aids to produce a special sound. this might be to a similar effect as some builders believe the binding (i mean the bended strip inside the guitar, which helps to connect the sides to the top and bottom, should be made out of a soft spongy wood (like poplar). like this, it will aid as well the sound. |
#17
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Those are called linings (the inside strips that help glue top and back). There's all kinds of theories on linings. Solid versus kerfed verses reverse kerfed. Triangle shape, tentalones etc... etc...
Solid (laminated) is traditional on a Selmer as was with classical guitars and since Maccaferri was a classical guitarist that is probably why he stuck with that tradition. I bought my laminated sides from Michael Collins and he provided the linings as well. It was a very convenient service and the price was very reasonable. I don't think however that he does that any more and of course it would cost you a fortune in postal fee. Bogdanovich wrote a book on classical guitar building and shows how to laminate sides. It's not terribly hard to do but takes special jigs and time. Bending solid sides is probably easier. But basically you make a solid mold of the sides and a clamping caul that is flexible and you clamp up the ply's to the mold to make the sides. The side wood I used was mahogany and rosewood. The inside of the guitar is mahogany and the outside rosewood. And that was for back and sides. But you can use anything you want. Popular is well suited for the job imo. |
#18
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It's really interesting that to make one of these is clearly very demanding and requires expertise. And yet, Mr. Maccaferri designed the guitar so that it could be made by ordinary men at the factory, men who had never made guitars. Mr. M is quoted as saying he made the whole thing very simple. But that's clearly not the case. Or his idea of simple was.....!!
Nick |
#19
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#20
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Ok , I've always "lurked" when the discussion came up to bend the top for a "pilage" and this seems to be a sound and reasonable way to go about it. So that said, I might just try it but one thing, didn't the original Macaferris (spelling?) have a "sound box" ? What goes with that? Is there a plan for one of these showing dimensions and how it is attached to the top (or bottom)? Whether it's a good thing or not, I would like to try and build one like that, soon as I finish the archtop and the Weissenborn.
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#21
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My understanding is the "baffle" was only used on the earlier D Hole guitars and some think it does not improve the sound.
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#22
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Check out this article on the resonators. Most of those guitars built with them have had them taken out.
http://www.lutherie.net/resonate.html Since Maccaferri was a classical guitar guy he probably got this idea from the classical guitar tornavoz which Torres used on many of his guitars. |
#23
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I've always been led to understand that the internal box worked very well with his classical guitars but not so much with the steel. I believe they used to quickly become a rattle source and so were mostly removed. The d soundhole was absolutely related to the soundbox arrangement.
Nick |
#24
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What do you think? Maccaferri certainly went for a flatter top when he was involved in those early Japanese ones in the seventies...one of which I owned and it was nothing like an original despite the advertised claims at the time. Great thick wadges of varnish for a start... Nick |
#25
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Selmer side length
Does any with a plan or guitar or good replica know the length of wood required for the sides? I am thinking on a project here.
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#26
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#27
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I'll try to remember to measure later but they are not that much bigger than a dred so I'd say if you have 34 inches you are good to go.
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#28
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Such a sensible idea, I don't know why more aren't buit that way. Nick |
#29
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Well I was hoping for 30" or less but it's not a deal breaker.
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#30
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I measured the long side, top side, with a string wrapped from tip to tip and it came out to 31 inches. Since the heel is wide then you might be able to just glue it to as far as you can on the head block and shim up the rest under the heel which is not visible anyway. But 30in is pushing it and you would have absolutely no room for mistakes in bending length.
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