binding tape

[Monts]

Can anyone recommend some tape for installing the binding that can be purchased at a hardware store? I know Stewmac sells their own but I'd like to grab some today.

[JonWint]

Look at fabric stores or Amazon. I use 5/8" but can't find it right now.

https://www.amazon.com/Topenca-Suppl...ef_=ast_sto_dp


Sorry for the reading incomprehension. I was describing the side reinforcing tape which is called binding in the fabric store.

Later posts have answered your question. I used to use cotton twill "tape" as wrapping after adhesive taping like Martin does. Later switched to elastic bands for more pressure especially for wood bindings.

Some of each. Tape, cotton, elastic.

[IMG][/IMG]

[redir]

The stuff JonWint points out is for 'roping' the binding is that what you are after? If so just go and get some sash cord. It's a cotton rope used in old fashion weighted windows and should be in any old time hardware store.

If you are talking about regular sticky tape then just get some masking tape, any kind will do. The Stewmac stuff is stronger but you can accomplish the same thing by doubling up on the tape pieces.

[Monts]

not sure how to do the ribbon method, I assume you are wrapping it around. I was going to use the tape/glue method.

[Monts]

Originally Posted by redir

The stuff JonWint points out is for 'roping' the binding is that what you are after? If so just go and get some sash cord. It's a cotton rope used in old fashion weighted windows and should be in any old time hardware store.

If you are talking about regular sticky tape then just get some masking tape, any kind will do. The Stewmac stuff is stronger but you can accomplish the same thing by doubling up on the tape pieces.

Thank you, yes I was talking about sticky tape, preferably something durable but not too strong causing difficult removal.

[redir]

Originally Posted by Monts

Thank you, yes I was talking about sticky tape, preferably something durable but not too strong causing difficult removal.

Make sure to shellac the area first else you will rip top wood fibers off with the tape. You don't want to use low tack tape. Filament tape is good too but IDK if that is a standard hardware store type thing. Might be at an office supply place though.

Here is a pic of roping and sash cord is what I use.

[BradHall]

If you use tape warm it up a bit with a hair dryer and peal it slowly at an angle to avoid tear out.

[John Arnold]

I use 3M yellow automotive masking tape. Shellacing the top is a good idea.

[Monts]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I use 3M yellow automotive masking tape. Shellacing the top is a good idea.

I have some gloss clear rust-oleum sealant on hand. Safe to use? Or does it have to be Shellac?

[redir]

Originally Posted by Monts

I have some gloss clear rust-oleum sealant on hand. Safe to use? Or does it have to be Shellac?

No!!!!

If you are in the U.S. you shoudl easily be able to find a product called Zinsser shellac. Use that. It is a Rust-oleum product but it is real dewaxed shellac and you could finish an entire instrument with it if you really wanted to. But a lot of luthiers use it as a seal coat under another finish.

[Monts]

Originally Posted by redir

No!!!!



If you are in the U.S. you shoudl easily be able to find a product called Zinsser shellac. Use that. It is a Rust-oleum product but it is real dewaxed shellac and you could finish an entire instrument with it if you really wanted to. But a lot of luthiers use it as a seal coat under another finish.

Got it...thanks!

[John Arnold]

The dewaxed clear Zinsser shellac is called SealCoat. I would not use amber (orange) shellac for this.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I use 3M yellow automotive masking tape. Shellacing the top is a good idea.

When you make suggestions I typically investigate them in an attempt to learn something new based on your extensive knowledge and experience.

I looked up the 3M yellow automotive masking tape, 388N, and found, according to their spec sheet, that it has a breaking strength of 26 lb/in and elongation at failure of 9%. https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...-tape-388n.pdf

By contrast, the Scotch brand - manufactured by 3M - masking tape 233, according to their spec sheet, has a breaking strength of 30 lb/in and elongation at failure of 12%. https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...sking-tape.pdf

Lee Valley sells the Scotch 233 specifically for guitar binding work. I have used it and found it works well, better than standard masking tapes that tend to break if you pull on them too hard.

One value I found for the strength of generic masking tape was 20 lb/in. I didn't find values for elongation at failure, important for stretching tape across bindings. Regular masking tape often tears if you pull on it/stretch it too much.

I thought I'd post what I'd learned as "general interest".

[redir]

Yes the Zinsser amber has way too much orange color in it.

[John Arnold]

Charles, thanks for posting that detailed info.
I used to use 3M Scotch #233 (tan in color) all the time, but my local supplier stopped carrying it, replacing it with the green (#233+). While the green works just fine (great for curved masking like rosettes), it is $1 more expensive per roll than the yellow, and I get plenty of stretch with only occasional breakage when using the yellow for binding. I use 2" to 3" of tape on either side of the binding to get the stretch I want.
Generic masking tape is seldom of much use to me. In addition to the lower stretch and strength, it often has an aggressive glue that is more apt to pull spruce fibers. And the glue often is not lacquer resistant, and degrades rather quickly from age. Having leftover melted glue residue after a lacquer spraying job is not an experience I care to repeat, and is the reason I started buying automotive tape rather than the cheap stuff.

Lee Valley sells the Scotch 233 specifically for guitar binding work.

That is a shock....about twice as much as my local auto paint store ($4.75 versus $9.80).