Wipe on poly finish

[jtww01]

Originally Posted by jrodriguezcros

Has anyone used this product or similar?

https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_an...ly_Finish.html

I'm looking for an alternative to spraying nitro and I wonder if this would work. It's for an acoustic guitar, mahogany neck, spruce top, granadillo back and sides.

Also I wonder if any grain filler would work with it, like pumice (as in classical guitars) and if it could be stained.

Thanks!

I've used it before, and it tends to have very little solids in it, so it takes an extremely long time to build up any semblance of a coat, it is good for the final layer on a neck though, as it comes out very smooth due to the very thin amount of solids.

the Stewmac wipe on poly is probably 1/4 of the thickness of the Crystalac poly I bought from Lmii later.

[jrodriguezcros]

Thanks will check that!

[redir]

Originally Posted by jrodriguezcros

Thanks redir. I have tried shellac before with good results... most of the times. I have had problems with this finish due to heat and humidity where I live (Spain), and also I would like something more scratch-resistant. I have read about tru-oil as well but it's not very hard either, is it? I might give it a try though.

No I don't think Tru-Oil is much more if any scratch resistant then shellac. Nitro is more scratch resistant but if you really want scratch resistance then the new UV cured finishes are the way to go. Everything is a trade off though. The thinner finish of shellac or a thin wipe on finish imho is better for tone.

I have used Royal Lac and liked it. I'll probably use it again some day. I think it's a bit tougher then standard shellac.

As for Nitro, it's always been one of my favorite finishes, and I have always sprayed it outside which limits me to certain times of year. But it's great stuff and relatively safe if you handle it correctly.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by redir

As for Nitro, it's always been one of my favorite finishes, and I have always sprayed it outside which limits me to certain times of year. But it's great stuff and relatively safe if you handle it correctly.

I haven't sprayed nitro in years. Just as a different data point, I hated everything about it, but for the fact that it would burn into previous coats. I particularly hated it turning milky when sprayed in higher humidities with traditional spray equipment.

I've tried lots of stuff since. The last I tried was Target's EM6000 waterborne "lacquer". I was pleased with it. Apparently it can also be brushed or padded with good results, but I've only sprayed it.

Many, many different finish options with choices for spraying, brushing or padding/wiping. Depends upon what appearance and protection you want and your environment (e.g. health concerns, weather conditions, available equipment...)

[jrodriguezcros]

I realize what I need is to make my mind up over what is more important... tone, looks, durability, ease of application...? A good compromise is hard to find, I guess

[Howard Klepper]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

I particularly hated it turning milky when sprayed in higher humidities with traditional spray equipment.

That is usually caused by using hardware store thinner. It can be fixed by adding a little retardant (butyl cellosolve). All finishes have their quirks and things to be learned about how to make them work. I find nitro lacquer to be very forgiving.

[redir]

Blush remover works well for the humidity caused white clouds in Nitro. It's happened to me a couple times but then I learned to never spray unless the humidity in the air was low. Which is problematic in Virginia becasue it's usually a sauna in the summer here even in the mountains.

I never tried EB6000 but I have tried at least 3 other water based finishes that I can remember. I really wanted it to work well but for me it just never did. The problem I had was consistency. Sometimes it came out great, other times it was a total do over. It's also harder to fix errors with. And I have seen one guitar come back after about 15 years and was horrified how it looked though in all fairness the owner probably didn't care for it as well as he said he did.

I guess what it comes down to is there simply is no perfect finish.

One of the things I love about Nitro though for example was a guitar that I had in last month that was built int the 40's and needed crack repair. A few touch up shots with Nitro and it melted right into the 70 year old finish.

[Rodger Knox]

Originally Posted by jrodriguezcros

That looks good, Rodger. Do you apply it directly onto the wood? Is it as delicate as shellac?

Yes, scroll down to the last post, it has my complete finish schedule.
https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...=514782&page=2

Shellac is actually pretty durable, the catch is that it takes a while (years) to fully harden. TruOil hardens up faster, so it's more durable for the first few years.

[jrodriguezcros]

Thanks Rodger, it is helpful to know your schedule. That guitar looks beautiful, it would be nice to hear it.

[Jphb77]

Originally Posted by Rodger Knox

TruOil has been used with some success.

I'm curious if you milled the mesquite yourself to make your back and sides, or can u give me any info on where I can find mesquite that is cut and sold for back and side sets..? Thankyou

[Rodger Knox]

I milled this myself from a board I got online from
https://www.mesquitefloors.com/stair-components/
I believe I got a couple of the MT12x44. I also made a jumbo from those boards, see it here:
https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...d.php?t=389262

[Plionberger]

I've been using a clear acrylic lacquer from www.targetcoatings.com. emtech 6000

Wipe on or brush on.