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#1
01-04-2021, 10:04 PM
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Setting new rosewood bridge
I am replacing my stock bridge with a rosewood one for my aibanez AF75. I bought one from Amazon for around $10. I probably should have bought the stew Mac one. Machining on it is rough but I can make it work. I sanded it so it would fit the top perfectly.
I am not sure whether I need to notch where the strings contact the bridge or do I just leave it? 
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#2
01-05-2021, 09:23 AM
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Notch the top the bridge saddle?
I do. When I make a new saddle, or replace an archtop bridge, I will first check the profile of the bottom of the bridge foot and correct any defects. Once the contact surface is perfect, I will then position the new bridge for proper centerline alignment and intonation. Then I mark the position of the high and low E strings with a pencil, (traditionally the same distance in from the edge of the fret board as at the nut). Then, using my Stewmac string spacing rule, I'll mark out the remaining strings as per the instructions on the ruler.
Once the string spacing is checked for accuracy, I cut small, temporary notches with my nut files, string up to concert pitch, check string action and neck relief. If everything seems to be in good order, I deepen the notches to drop the strings to the depth of the height of each string, then, raise the saddle to bring the string action back up to the proper height. I do it this way for two reasons, first, I do not like the feel of the strings poking up above the saddle when I mute with my palm, and second, with the string buried in the saddle, there is very little chance that any string will "jump ship" when strumming hard  .
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Leonard 1918 Gibson L-1 1928 Gibson L-4 (Blond w/Ebony Fret-board) 1930's Kalamazoo KG-32 1930's Gretsch F-50 1934 Gibson L-7 1934 Gibson L-50 (KG-11/14 Body Shape) 1935 Gibson L-50 (Flat-back) 1935 Gibson L-30 (Flat-back) 1942 Gibson L-50 (WWII Banner Head) 1948 Gibson L-50 1949 Epiphone Blackstone "a sharp mind cuts cleaner than a sharp tool"
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#3
01-05-2021, 10:01 AM
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The only thing I do differently than Archtoplover is I check the radius of the top of the new saddle and adjust if needed. I want a gradually rising action height, 1/16" 12th fret high E and 3/32" low E, so that ends up being a radius slightly larger than the fretboard radius. If I do a 14" radius on my fretboard (typical for me) then I start with a 16" radius on the saddle and adjust from there. You can equally do this with slot depth and once you get each string's action height exactly where you want it, you can trim the very top of the saddle so the slot depths are also where you want them.
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Brian Evans 1935 Dobro model 25 resonator 1943 Paramount (made by Kay) mandolin 1946 Epiphone Zephyr electric archtop 1957 Hofner Senator archtop 1962 Gibson Melody Maker electric 1963 National Dynamic lap steel 1996 Landola jumbo 1998 Godin Artisan TC electric 1998 Epiphone SG electric 2010 GoldTone PBR-CA resonator 2015 Evans electric archtop 2016 Evans archtop
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#4
01-05-2021, 11:14 AM
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Thank you for the info, I will go ahead and slot those today.
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