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#1
09-11-2021, 02:49 PM
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Spare parts
Case in point why it pays to keep spare guitar parts on hand: I found my FGX5 to be in need of a truss rod tweak. As it turns out, when I cut the nut slots after firstgetting the guitar, I made the amateur mistake of doing it before the saddle was the right height and the truss rod was at the right tension setting. One I got my saddle the right height and the truss rod just perfect, the nut slots were too low. Thankfully I had a spare nut on hand. I sanded it down a but to get close to the right height and was able to file the slots down and now she plays light a well oiled machine.
There have been lots of threads lately about doing saddle swaps, truss rod tweaks and nut filing. I strongly urge you, if you haven't already, to order some spares to have on hand if you're the DIYer like me.
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As my username suggests, huge fan of Yamaha products. Own many acoustic-electric models from 2009-present and a couple electric. Lots of PA too. 
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#2
09-11-2021, 05:23 PM
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I have raised several nuts with a piece of veneer. Usually ebony .020" thick that often matches the fretboard.
OTOH, if I am buying nut and bridge blanks, I usually buy a couple extras. It is easy enough to make a mess of one and nice not to have to wait weeks for more to come from China or the US.
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#3
09-12-2021, 10:05 AM
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I can't see how anything influences the height of a nut slot except the first two frets used to confirm slot height. Saddle, truss rod,anything else, aren't used in the determination.
Nice idea to have spare nut blanks and saddles available. Inexpensive and don't take up much space and are all but impervious to getting tossed around.
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#4
09-12-2021, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
__________________
As my username suggests, huge fan of Yamaha products. Own many acoustic-electric models from 2009-present and a couple electric. Lots of PA too.
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#5
09-12-2021, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
If you had set the nut height at the fret plane (which is determined by placing a straightedge on the first two frets), you would have avoided the hassle of making a second nut. I never, ever measure action at the first fret.
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#6
09-13-2021, 09:22 AM
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It doesn't matter if you adjust the truss rod before or after you cut the nut slots. As mentioned the height of the slots of the nut is equal to the height of your frets (or arguably a slight bit lower since the string actually ramps off the face of the nut as the metal bends towards the saddle direction).
So what you had was a nut cut too low and a neck with so much relief in it that you didn't notice the nut was cut too low till you set the relief proper. A great way to shim a nut is with a regular piece of white paper like printer or copy paper and thin CA glue. It makes the paper rock hard and since it's white you cannot tell it's shimmed. Obviously this is for very slight adjustments but most are. EDIT: And yeah having spare parts around is great. I have jars and boxes of 25 years of dong this spare parts.
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