Gretsch 2657T models

[Gdjjr]

Yes, I know it's a GC hand crafted in Indonesia model = cheap.


In another thread, I posted a video of a similar bigsby model being strung without putting the strings under the roller? bar- I'm thinking about doing it that way the next time I change strings. I just wonder at the sound it will or won't make. The strings I just put on are Rotosound Purples (12-52's) and I do like the sound with the pick up switch in the up position- neck I believe? The other 2 positions are not impressive at ambient noise level in an apt. (which is coming a bit later in this post)- this is the 3rd time I've changed strings on it- I have acoustics I change strings on often as well. On this Gretsch they seem to me to be really short, comparatively speaking. Well, if I don't go under the roller? bar they will get to the tuners with a little more length- correct? But, will that adversely affect the sound? The video said no- but, videos can be skewed.
So, any feed back to my quandary?

Now, the rest of the story- the controls- bet y'all know where this is going, correct?

They are, uh, lacking- to say the least. Suggestions? and advice since I've never messed with electrics in an intimate way- as in, up close and personal, in tight quarters. And, the pick ups? I wonder why changing switch position seems to mute vs changing - any clues to that?

This said; A Rat Rod is in my future- should I just live with the 2657 as is, or soup it up? Will I render it (the 2657) junk if I screw up? I fear just pulling the knobs off - can I do it without scarring it up? It's a pretty sucker- I just pulled the protective tape off the pick guard and pick ups yesterday and I've had it since a week before Memorial Day

I'm anal about cosmetic finish

[Lillis]

You might try a vibramate string spoiler. Might allow for a little more length at tuners. If nothin else it will allow for easier string changes. I just got one but haven’t installed yet. Mine was on sale on Amazon FYI.

[MC5C]

Not using the lower string bar has puts and takes. It somewhat radically changes the string break angle over the bridge, and really reduces the downforce on the bridge from the strings. You need a certain amount of bridge height so that the strings even touch the bridge saddles, so set up for the action height you want, measure the string height at the bridge and the string height at the tailpiece bar that the strings actually mount on. You'll get a good idea of what's what. My G6124 was retrofitted with a B6 Bigsby, which doesn't have the second string bar, and the bridge downforce was low enough that the floating bridge moved around really easily.

The big benefit of the single bar style Bigsby is that the tremelo action is really light, you can get roller or rocker bridges that let the strings move a bit, and it really can stay in tune very well indeed. But string height is critical. My 1962 G6124, being around 60 years old and starting to think it might need a neck reset, didn't have enough bridge height to make the B6 work properly so I put the stock tailpiece back on. When Gretsch chooses a tailpiece as a stock fitment on their guitars they think about things like bridge height and neck set, and choose the right one for that particular job.

[Gdjjr]

Originally Posted by MC5C

Not using the lower string bar has puts and takes. It somewhat radically changes the string break angle over the bridge, and really reduces the downforce on the bridge from the strings. You need a certain amount of bridge height so that the strings even touch the bridge saddles, so set up for the action height you want, measure the string height at the bridge and the string height at the tailpiece bar that the strings actually mount on. You'll get a good idea of what's what. My G6124 was retrofitted with a B6 Bigsby, which doesn't have the second string bar, and the bridge downforce was low enough that the floating bridge moved around really easily.

The big benefit of the single bar style Bigsby is that the tremelo action is really light, you can get roller or rocker bridges that let the strings move a bit, and it really can stay in tune very well indeed. But string height is critical. My 1962 G6124, being around 60 years old and starting to think it might need a neck reset, didn't have enough bridge height to make the B6 work properly so I put the stock tailpiece back on. When Gretsch chooses a tailpiece as a stock fitment on their guitars they think about things like bridge height and neck set, and choose the right one for that particular job.

Yes, I am aware of the break angle deal, but in another thread I posted a video of a guy who didn't think it mattered all that much and strung his without going under the second bar, moved the bridge around to different locations and it didn't seem to matter- on the video- I know videos can be deceiving though- oh well, strings aren't that expensive and I have time-

[Highroller]

It's gonna depend a bit on your playing style too. Some people wind up having issues with the low E popping off the saddles due to the low break angle. I think this happens most often to players that are more on the "aggressive strummer" side of things, but hey - it can happen to anybody I guess.

Nothing wrong with trying it out, you can always swap it back.

[Steve DeRosa]

Originally Posted by Gdjjr

Yes, I know it's a GC hand crafted in Indonesia model = cheap...

This said; A Rat Rod is in my future - should I just live with the 2657 as is, or soup it up? Will I render it (the 2657) junk if I screw up?..

There's a big difference between cheap and inexpensive, and I think you've discovered the reason[s] I recommend that would-be Gretsch Streamliner owners save their money and step up to the MIK Electromatics; while only you know whether it'd be worth your time/effort, if it were me I'd cut my losses: keep it in brand-new condition, restring it to original spec (under the bar), sell it privately for what I could get, and put the proceeds toward a suitable amp for my new Rat Rod...

[Gdjjr]

Originally Posted by Steve DeRosa

There's a big difference between cheap and inexpensive, and I think you've discovered the reason[s] I recommend that would-be Gretsch Streamliner owners save their money and step up to the MIK Electromatics; while only you know whether it'd be worth your time/effort, if it were me I'd cut my losses: keep it in brand-new condition, restring it to original spec (under the bar), sell it privately for what I could get, and put the proceeds toward a suitable amp for my new Rat Rod...

I already have, per your recommendation, a Bugers v5