Does anyone use “Smoothie” (silicone) in their lacquer

[mirwa]

Cool cool

So it appears your cleaning it correctly as well, i always use alcohol to clean shellac out and then follow up with just some clean thinners.

Really silly question, your not oiling/lubricating your spraygun?

So that leaves your mixing cups and or utensil for mixing / stirring, what are you using here, are you using a ladle of some type to fill a mixing cup or something similiar, are you pouring straight from the can into a mixing cup, are you using a mixing cup.

I mention this as i had an issue with some two pack polys i was once painting, i typically use medical syringes to draw small amounts of paint up for catalysing when doing air brush work, on one brand of two pack the active ingredients were eating and breaking down the plastic walls of the syringes and in turn giving me fisheyes in my paintwork.

Even with additives, spray guns can be cleaned correctly, the things that cannot be cleaned out are air hoses / water traps / pressure regulators, so if you want to use the additive you can wihout fear of not being able to clean your gun out properly, however you make it difficult for people to touch up or respray your work at a later date.

Steve

[fazool]

Sheesh.......this sounds like CMOS compatible semi-conductor level controls.

I'm chasing a boron contamination problem in a silicon-on-insulater wafer and the contaminants are so miniscule in the air and such its almost impossible and we're going through tool by tool in the clean room......


Steve's conversation about finding your contaminants is an exact parallel to what we're doing right now.

It was striking to me to see the exact same type of issue in a parallel universe like this.

[Quickstep192]

I just conducted an experiment.

I (re) cleaned the gun extra thoroughly, sanded my test plywood, wiped it clean with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water and then sprayed a coat of Hydrocote WB finish.

I have more craters than ever. When viewed up close, the craters actuAlly have a dry spot in the center.

!!UNCLE!!

I’ve replaced the compressor, I’ve replaced the hoses and I have more filters than you can shake a stick at.

I give up! I think I shall never solve this problem.

[mirwa]

You wiped it clean with alcohol and water, no wax and grease remover?

Can you take a photo of the finish, want to make sure we are talking / discussing the same issue.

Steve

[Quickstep192]

I didn’t use wax and grease remover, just the water/alcohol mix to remove the dust from sanding. Here’s a picture of the scene of the crime.

[mirwa]

To me, i can see a few issues, i see some solvent pop, some trapped dust and some fisheye, so you go the trifecta going.

Wax and grease remover needed on prep, dont lean over the paint when spraying (dust)m really its a non cleaned surface not contaminated paint.

you would get most of this same situation if using a spray can which your not getting, so a little lost here

Steve

[Quickstep192]

I deliberately sprayed heavy to accentuate the craters, so that accounts for the solvent pop.

When spraying from a rattle can, it’s solvent lacquer; this is waterborne so that could account for the difference there.

[mirwa]

WB can be very problematic to spray, even over stirring the paint before putting it in the gun can give surface holes, your choice of deoderant believe or not can cause issues with WB. What tip size is your spray gun

Glad you clarified re solvent cans, that makes a lot of sense now.

I do not think your system is contaminated.

If you want, just give smoothie a go and see if it resolves the issues your having with the WB.

Steve

[Howard Klepper]

You are spraying water borne? Why didn't you say so in the first place? I thought you were using nitro lacquer, and the only difference was between rattle can and your gun system.

All kinds of bad stuff happens with water borne. Get the real thing.

[Quickstep192]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

You are spraying water borne? Why didn't you say so in the first place? I thought you were using nitro lacquer, and the only difference was between rattle can and your gun system.

All kinds of bad stuff happens with water borne. Get the real thing.

I get craters in “the real thing” as well; I mentioned that in my second post. While I’m aware that all kinds of bad stuff can happen with waterborne, many advances have been made in waterborne finishes. I am trying to make waterborne work for health and safety reasons and because I think it will eventually become the only choice.

I’ve been experimenting with Crystalac Brite Tone which doesn’t have that dreaded bluish cast and levels nicely (if you don’t get craters

[charles Tauber]

Ive had good success with Target EM6000 waterborne. EM7000, no longer made, was a disaster. I’ve used Britetone filler. It worked okay but takes at least three applications to fill pores.

[Skarsaune]

Originally Posted by Quickstep192

I’ve been experimenting with Crystalac Brite Tone which doesn’t have that dreaded bluish cast and levels nicely (if you don’t get craters

I’ve picked up some crystalac to try on my next project.
They’re local and did a pretty good demo at our art center.

[Quickstep192]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Ive had good success with Target EM6000 waterborne. EM7000, no longer made, was a disaster. I’ve used Britetone filler. It worked okay but takes at least three applications to fill pores.

Any tips for spraying waterbornes?

What to you do to clean dust between coats?

[mirwa]

You have a couple of options with dust,

first ideally create a dust free enviroment, wear dust free clothes or a paintsuit, clean everything spotlessly, when I paint guitars, I am painting in a spray booth with controlled air in and out, I wear a full body suit including a hoodie that goes over my hair, plus face mask and gloves, I still occassionally get small bits of dust in my jobs

or

spray a single coat and let it dry then flat sand the surface and clean, repeat until you get the desired layers.

Steve

[Quickstep192]

Originally Posted by mirwa

You have a couple of options with dust,

first ideally create a dust free enviroment, wear dust free clothes or a paintsuit, clean everything spotlessly, when I paint guitars, I am painting in a spray booth with controlled air in and out, I wear a full body suit including a hoodie that goes over my hair, plus face mask and gloves, I still occassionally get small bits of dust in my jobs

or

spray a single coat and let it dry then flat sand the surface and clean, repeat until you get the desired layers.

Steve

I was really asking about removing the dust from the between costs sanding. Thanks to your input, I’m now somewhat convinced that I’m introducing some kind of contaminant when I’m cleaning sanding dust from the surface and that’s what’s causing my craters.