#16
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I'm accustomed to using the lock-loop method in the video because I use round-core strings, and it's the easiest way I know of to make sure they don't unravel when cut. I don't think it's superior in any other way. I've never been shown any evidence that one way produces less or more string breakage than the other; I think that's hearsay. I also think the claims of greater tuning stability for one or the other are hearsay. If one way was clearly superior to the other in that regard, it'd have become the industry standard by now. A luthier friend of mine recommends one wrap over and two wraps under the post hole. I imagine your technique could be easily adapted to that. I'll try it next time I restring using something other than round cores, and report back. |
#17
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Marc 1973 Guild D55 2014 Collings Baby flamed maple, German top 2019 Collings Baby 2he Prior: Too many to list |
#18
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I’ve used a number of different stringing techniques and rarely have tuning issues with any of them. Locking wraps. A few wraps. A bunch of wraps. It all works just as well for me. These days I just use a very simple formula - straight in the post with no locking wrap, a few times around the post, and then tug the strings a few times to seat them.
The D’Addario locking wrap is superfluous, in my opinion, and does make it harder to remove the string. If I were to lock any strings, it’d be the highest.
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Circa OM-30/34 (Adi/Mad) | 000-12 (Ger/Maple) | OM-28 (Adi/Brz) | OM-18/21 (Adi/Hog) | OM-42 (Adi/Braz) Fairbanks SJ (Adi/Hog) | Schoenberg/Klepper 000-12c (Adi/Hog) | LeGeyt CLM (Swiss/Amzn) | LeGeyt CLM (Carp/Koa) Brondel A-2 (Carp/Mad) |
#19
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Regarding the idea that the locking method is hard to remove: 1) I don’t usually find it hard to bend string ends & pull strings through the eye. 2) However, as an alternative, I have wire clippers right on my bench during string changes, a simple clip of the string in front of the tuning machine eye makes quick work (less than a second) of removing problematic strings.
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#20
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But I'm now with justonwo.(and rokdog49) The simplest and easiest way possible. No pre-cutting - no over then under - no winding on post first. Just in the hole, pull back a little, wind them all downwards, cut off the excess. And they come off easily too. Works brilliantly with round-core strings too. Sometimes I over-estimate a touch and get 3 winds on the post, usually 2 - it doesn't really matter.
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Brucebubs 1972 - Takamine D-70 2014 - Alvarez ABT60 Baritone 2015 - Kittis RBJ-195 Jumbo 2012 - Dan Dubowski#61 2018 - Rickenbacker 4003 Fireglo 2020 - Gibson Custom Shop Historic 1957 SJ-200 2021 - Epiphone 'IBG' Hummingbird Last edited by Brucebubs; 09-30-2019 at 06:44 PM. |
#21
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Circa OM-30/34 (Adi/Mad) | 000-12 (Ger/Maple) | OM-28 (Adi/Brz) | OM-18/21 (Adi/Hog) | OM-42 (Adi/Braz) Fairbanks SJ (Adi/Hog) | Schoenberg/Klepper 000-12c (Adi/Hog) | LeGeyt CLM (Swiss/Amzn) | LeGeyt CLM (Carp/Koa) Brondel A-2 (Carp/Mad) |
#22
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You're right!
Here's my neatest job.
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Brucebubs 1972 - Takamine D-70 2014 - Alvarez ABT60 Baritone 2015 - Kittis RBJ-195 Jumbo 2012 - Dan Dubowski#61 2018 - Rickenbacker 4003 Fireglo 2020 - Gibson Custom Shop Historic 1957 SJ-200 2021 - Epiphone 'IBG' Hummingbird |
#23
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I'm using the method shown in the OP as well, and I suspect it improved the tuning stability of my guitar. It was slightly complicated and time-consuming to me at first, but now it's a second nature - actually, I'm so accustomed to it and forgot the "easier" way, that it would be more time-consuming now if I reverted to the non-lock method. Never had problems removing the strings, don't know what the hassle is about.
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