|
|
#1
09-05-2019, 01:58 PM
|
|||
|
|||
Help me understand a proper setup
The string height from the 1st to the 9th fret is perfect, from there it starts to raise and get to high. I don’t understand how you lower half the neck without the other half being to low.
__________________
Semper Fi Taylor GS Mini Martin 000-15M 
|
|
#2
09-05-2019, 02:23 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Could need a neck reset; if it's one of your Taylors and you're the original owner it's covered under warranty - had the same issue with my LE 320e baritone, plays like a dream now...
If it's the Martin, it's common knowledge that Martins don't need neck resets... 
__________________
"Mistaking silence for weakness and contempt for fear is the final, fatal error of a fool" - Sicilian proverb (paraphrased)
|
|
#4
09-05-2019, 02:40 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
How much saddle do you have showing?
When you put a straight edge on the fretboard; is there a hump at the 9th fret and does it come even to the top of the bridge? If there is a hump and you use the truss-rod to straighten the neck, where does that leave the straight edge in relation to the bridge? What guitar is this?
|
|
#7
09-05-2019, 03:31 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
The problem could be that it needs a simple neck relief adjustment.
Since you inquired about "setup", there is a sequence to follow to make sure you get it right. 1) Nut slot depth. Hold down each string on the 3rd fret, then press each string up and down at the 1st fret. There should be *just* enough space for clearance, an almost imperceptible amount. Then step 2. 2) Neck relief: To check, put a capo on the first fret, then hold down the low E string where the neck meets the body, usually the 12th fret. Then with the other hand press the string up and down at the 7th fret. There should be JUST enough clearance for the string to move up and down. Typically the clearance would measure .007"- .010", give or take. Do the same for the high E. Once you have that down go to the next step... 3) String height: Measured from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the string, most manufacturers recommend between 5/64th" at the low E and 4/64ths" at the high E... sometimes 1 or 2 64ths higher but rarely higher or lower than stated above. The issue that you are wondering about should be limited to neck relief. The adjustment is simple. Find the appropriate truss rod wrench for your guitar, place it in the nut slot and turn clockwise 1/16 of a turn. As the Brylcream commercial once said "a little dab 'l do ya". It doesn't take much. What you're doing with that clockwise turn is straightening out the neck. If the relief is too low where you measure at the 7th fret, then turn the same amount counter-clockwise to add a little more bend (relief) in the neck. After each 1/16th turn, check. It it needs a bit more, then another 1/16 turn. If you go a bit too far, then back it off. That's it. Once you've done it successfully you'll see how easy it is. The only cautionary things I'd tell you is make sure you have the exactly correct wrench. You don't want to use a wrench that doesn't fit snugly or you risk stripping the inside of the nut. And then again, just tighten or loosen small increments. If it gives you any issues and won't turn without heroic efforts, take it to a technican to see it has issues so you don't break the truss rod. But if you have the right wrench the chances of you damaging anything are quite small. Now you know how to measure for a correct setup and adjusting the neck relief. After that, report back regarding string height and playability. Good luck. Let us know what you've found.
__________________
Assuming is not knowing. Knowing is NOT the same as understanding. There is a difference between compassion and wisdom, however compassion cannot supplant wisdom, and wisdom can not occur without understanding. facts don't care about your feelings and FEELINGS ALONE MAKE FOR TERRIBLE, often irreversible DECISIONS 
|
|
#9
09-05-2019, 04:29 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Quote:
__________________
"Mistaking silence for weakness and contempt for fear is the final, fatal error of a fool" - Sicilian proverb (paraphrased)
|
|
#10
09-05-2019, 08:30 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Except my D-15, and I was not the original owner.[emoji19]$ And my Taylor that I bought new 20 years ago...neck is still perfect. Sort of like insurance you never need to use. [emoji848]
|
|
#11
09-06-2019, 08:12 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
One or two more things... A few comments mentioned a "neck reset". Since you have a Taylor 110, I assume it has their "NT neck". If you didn't know the NT neck is a bolt-on neck like all latter day Taylors have. That is a huge advantage because a neck reset is a 20 minute procedure with Taylor's precision shim system. And if the string height is too high (or too low) it is best to have a technician who has access to Taylor's shims (and experience with the system) to use the system to do the setup. Based on your question it doesn't sound like you're experienced to try to adjust the string height (if needed) yourself with shimming or saddle sanding. But try the neck relief adjustment first. You will need a Taylor truss rod wrench. They are available on Amazon for under $10 (a shame Taylor doesn't include these with their guitars, as expensive as they are).
__________________
Assuming is not knowing. Knowing is NOT the same as understanding. There is a difference between compassion and wisdom, however compassion cannot supplant wisdom, and wisdom can not occur without understanding. facts don't care about your feelings and FEELINGS ALONE MAKE FOR TERRIBLE, often irreversible DECISIONS
|
|
#12
09-06-2019, 05:54 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks again, I do plan on taking it to a professional. And I am very inexperienced. I’ve been playing for 15 months, but long enough to know this is a life long journey I’m starting. So I’m trying to learn all I can so one day I won’t need someone else working on my guitars.
__________________
Semper Fi Taylor GS Mini Martin 000-15M
|
|
#13
09-06-2019, 06:18 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
to emphasize
A TAYLOR professional. If the tech can't keep away from the sandpaper when dealing with the saddle, keep the guitar away from him. Ditto if he doesn't show experience with the shimming process. Taylors are unique and adjustments are unique to Taylor. Things that are done to other guitars are not done to Taylors.
|
|
#15
09-06-2019, 10:44 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
General neck adjustments on a taylor are done with shims to correct the neck angle, Bob Taylors process is IMO one of the best systems on the market to achieve this. 90 plus percent of customers I feel will be happy with a neck adjustment and original saddle configuration, 5 percent wont be and 5 percent have small neck issues which cannot be accounted for in the neck adjustment Example, customer wants 85 and 60 thou clearance in their E strings, the neck reset process may get them to 80/64 or 84/68 or 88/72 for arguments sake (every guitar is a fractionally different measurement), here we would shim for the 88/72 and then sand and shape the saddle to achieve final dimensions. Some neck to string clearances are not great as they are, just do not have the desired split, wood is wood and it moves, be that the neck or the top or even the bridge, example, the neck may have a 90/60 string action, which is too large of a split, adding or subtracting shims still maintains this, in this situation a saddle shave is required as well. The goal of any tech is to get a guitar as close as possible to your wishes, Taylors neck system allows the hardest part of achieving this to become one of the easiest parts Steve
__________________
Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE Last edited by mirwa; 09-07-2019 at 06:41 PM.
|
