#61
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Thank you everybody for the help! I'm not even sure how I evolved to making such extreme changed at the ends since I wasn't even shooting for that! Hmmmmm. I think I was just going off the plan re: where the taper starts and just went for it!!!!
Arie, thanks for back strip info. I'm going to sand it down a bit then! So I'll trim things up a bit and post. Thanks a million. Sam |
#62
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Ok here's an improved version. I'm starting to tap tune back vs top so I'm going to remove wood now for that purpose. Excellent!
Like I said, the tap tone of the back is LOWER than that top, which is not his guitars are when put together. So it's seems I've got some wood to remove from the top. Sam BEFORE: AFTER |
#63
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__________________
(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#64
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#65
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Nice job on your build....you persevered thru some big challenges! Nice work. Sam |
#66
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OK here's an update.....got sidetracked and slightly discouraged when I sanded thru sides (Yeah ok I now agree sides should be at least 0.07" thick hehe).
Anyways, its not going to be perfect but Im chugging. Now its pretty much time to get neck finished up and the scary part: cut the neck-body dovetails. This part scares me soooo much. OK hope all is well. Sam Last edited by Sam VanLaningham; 01-27-2015 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Missing pic |
#67
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Ok long hiatus! I had hand cut the dovetail neck and body join and I'm just not skilled enough!!! So, I lost some wind in sails. But I got new energy and built a neck-body routing jig and glad I did! Works pretty good(pics later!).
Question: with a dovetail joint and a thru soundhole truss rod adjustment screw, is the adjustment screw positioned flush with end of dovetail on neck? Like the pic posted below? Then I guess I'll drill access hole through neck block? It seems some people have the truss rod extending further into body but I can't envision how I'd attach neck with fretboard and truss into a hole but also sliding into a dovetail???? Thanks for any thoughts! Sam |
#68
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Ok, wow-this build process reminds me of getting a PhD.....challenging and rewarding and never ending! Love it.
Here are pics before finish. I used water soluble aniline dye and rubbed in a sunburst. I figure it might look pretty good when I add finish since the dyed approach can look pretty nasty before finish then come alive after. I'm excited. I also used a stewmac tutorial on bindjng scraping (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNbsZsSabPs&sns=em) that worked really well for my first time. Note I actually went through process twice because the first time around I put light marks on englemann top whilst going around....just from thumb pressure. So I took it real easy after sanding, and rebursting. I'll still be amazed if this thing stays together under tension. The sides have basically been reliced with all the patches etc. But glad I'm persevering. Sam L00 before finish by samvanlan, on Flickr L00 before finish by samvanlan, on Flickr L00 before finish by samvanlan, on Flickr |
#69
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Well the back did not turn out so well. The top has promise. The sides have been effed since the beginning.
I used 4-5 coats of epifanes with the accelerator. i DID NOT do this right at all, and sort of went backwards relative to most finishing approaches Ive seen: Coat1: Epifanes and accelerator......really thick and led to some large runs. Coat2: Epifanes, accelerator and a smidge thinned.......better but still thick and droopy. Coat3: Epifanes, accelerator and maybe 20% thinner......better yet! Coats4&5: equal proportions of all three....best brush on yet, with some burn-in as well (I think). I wet sanded with 400 between coats. However, I just dry sanded the neck with 600 and like that result much better. Now Im gonna add another coat or 2 to the neck and meanwhile wait for 3-4 weeks for the varnish to cure on the body. Suhweeet. (fyi for bookkeeping: I posted a bit about troubles with the finish in a different thread here:http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...d.php?t=375963) Untitled by samvanlan, on Flickr by samvanlan, on Flickr by samvanlan, on Flickr |
#70
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Wow I can't believe my first guitar, this RIGHTY L00 for my bro, makes sounds. And they are pretty darn good sounds. Potato chip light. Laser clear and bright tone I think cuz of the maple and radiused body. Concerningly, I've got stripped truss rod issues and a backbowed neck. But the medium john pearses are making it playable. Better than I expected and worse than I hoped! Endless cosmetic flaws but I'm happy.
I am encouraged about build two! But gotta stay patient....one day at a time. I will post better pics later! Iphone shots for now..... L00 by samvanlan, on Flickr L00 by samvanlan, on Flickr L00 by samvanlan, on Flickr L00 by samvanlan, on Flickr |
#71
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Well done!!! Glad you were able to see it through to successful completion!!
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#72
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Here, here!
They get easier each time BTW...I see an old friend leaning against the bookcase in the background.
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VintageParlorGuitars.com Fresh inventory just added, click link at left to view |
#73
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Were you able to hear it "open up" in the first few minutes of playing? Some of mine have changed pretty dramatically in the first hour or so, others not so much.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#74
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I love the look of it, going to have to do a burst one of these days.
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#75
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All in all. What a process! I don't think anything has sparked such a great spectrum of emotion. And it's not over. I have to figure out how to get this stripped truss rod moving. I'm gonna try to relieve tension in neck and then try a tapered allen head (diy stewmac wrench). |