#16
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Looks nice.
If your router bit isn't exactly the width of the strip, you can save a lot of time in repositioning the straight edge that your router follows. Instead of fiddling with the position of the straight edge to get the width of the cut exactly right, you can create an eccentric router base by applying layers of masking tape to the circular portion of the edge of your router base. That way, you leave the straight edge where it is, and just rotate the router until you have the necessary offset to give you the cut width needed to just match the inlay strip. |
#17
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Thanks! I wish I'd thought of that! I've got to remember that for the next next build!
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(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#18
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if i might humbly suggest, here's my plate joining fixture i built. i find that by leaving the center open (with wax paper on the bottom) drying time is significantly reduced because the water in the glue (titebond) has a place to evaporate from instead of being trapped under wax paper. drying time for this walnut back was about an hour. like your posts. keep up the good work! |
#19
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I took my rosewood sides down to 2.2mm. The back to around 2.4mm. After final sanding they wound up at 2 and 2.2.
I've found for the first few builds the bracing tends to be a bit too much and over braced, timidness creeps in of possibly shaving too much on them. 3mm is a good safe start, but also ok to go down to 2.9 or even 2.8. The stiff bracing will compensate for the thinner top and should come out with a nice marriage between the two.
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2013 Jared Booth OM - eurospruce/mahogany 2014 Jared Booth 00 - europspruce/rosewood 2015 Jared Booth 00 - sitka/mahogany |
#20
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Now that my #1 is built I'm hoping to pick back up on this build. I like the feel of the OLF medium jumbo body so much though that I'm considering on doing it again with this set of wood - but still go with the forward-shifted X bracing. I've been looking over the specs of the Martin J-40 and it seems to be generally similar in body size. I still haven't decided what to do for binding and now am reconsidering on using the short scale neck that I have because making the laminated/bolt on neck on my first was so much fun as well.
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(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#21
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hey. you braced the Carpathian top yet? my first build I used Carpathian and its a rather stiff light wood. i wanted to intitially stop thickness sanding at 3mm since that is the ideal ballpark area, however the top was still super stiff with no wobble. i continued on and eventually stopped at 2.5mm where the wobble was good and still strong. i chose to use tapered bracing on this build and even after it was finished, i still went inside the soundhole and used my miniature finger planer to take down on the bracing. Carpathian is extremely stiff so check your thickness before bracing and gluing it up.
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2013 Jared Booth OM - eurospruce/mahogany 2014 Jared Booth 00 - europspruce/rosewood 2015 Jared Booth 00 - sitka/mahogany |
#22
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I, too, am a fan of very straight grain with no drama - nice wood. The good news about the symmetry of your back is that it is indecisive what way it should go - this means that it is even and straight enough that it almost doesn't matter.
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#23
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Very pretty wood. Look forward to seeing this one progress. Your last turned out very nice.
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-- Nick |
#24
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Thanks! I still need to tweak the neck angle and clean up the finish on the first one but I definitely have the urge to start this build back up. I keep flip-flopping on the body style though. Do I do a dread or another medium jumbo? I have this urge to build a strummer and do another cedar top later on.
__________________
(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#25
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I despise dreadnaughts. Do the jumbo.
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-- Nick |
#26
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Sorry, I've opted to make use of the CNC'd Martin neck (with V shaped profile) I was gifted with and do a short scale dreadnought. It will be an HD-28V SS. I've already ordered a 24.9" serviced ebony fretboard from LMI along with some curly maple binding strips (for the fingerboard) and fretwire. I also ordered pearl diamond inlays from Stewmac to fancy it up a little. Apart from the inlays, dovetail joint and forward shifting the braces I'm hoping things go a little more smoothly. I don't have to build jigs or forms this time. I'm also using serviced parts (like the neck and fretboard obviously) but will also be going with a serviced Martin belly bridge with 2-1/4" spacing at the saddle and prebent herringbone purfling for a dreadnought from Stewmac.
I need to find a good source for Dremel bits though. I'm having a hard time finding an alternative to Stewmac for downcut carbide bits with a 1/8" shank. Does anybody have any suggestions?
__________________
(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#27
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#28
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#29
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__________________
(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#30
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I have, another question: the neck I have has some visual blemishes and some cracks that have been sealed with CA glue, leaving some areas darkened. I would like to stain the mahogany to cover this up and match the general hue of the rosewood back and sides. Would a water-based stain from a hardware store work or do I need something a bit more potent?
__________________
(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |