#16
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The difference in spacing from top E to bottom E on my 2 main guitars is 1/8 inch (Martin JM and Ibanez 754) . For picking soft folk and celtic folk I can feel a real difference. The neck profiles, string height, relief and strings are identical, but I need to concentrate for a few minutes to achieve more precision on the (marginally) narrower neck. I didn't even know ahout the difference in width until I actually measured the two guitars.......
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#17
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I think just as important and often overlooked is bridge spacing. I find 2 1/4” about as narrow as is comfortable, and 2 5/16” is perfect.
The strange thing is I like 1 3/4” to 1 7/8” nuts, but when I pickup my fender telecaster I find it’s just as easy to play so I don’t really know. If anything though it’s the bridge spacing on the Tele that gives me trouble (when fingerpicking). Another thing is if I’m just holding chords (especially cowboy chords) the wider nut spacings are noticeably better. If I’m playing finger style that involves only partial chords as I move around the fretboard nut spacing is less of an issue, probably because I’m not tying to squeeze so many fingers in together. Still though bridge spacing is more important, probably because of the thumbing. Last edited by Jimmy Recard; 04-17-2021 at 04:15 PM. |
#18
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Quote:
I hope you still have it |
#19
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Quote:
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-2017 Gibson J-45 Standard -2019 Gibson J-15 -2019 Gibson Les Paul Junior -2020 Gibson Les Paul Special -2019 Gibson Les Paul Studio -2021 Fender Aerodyne Special Telecaster -2022 Fender Telecaster 50s (Vintera) -1994 Fender Telecaster Deluxe 70 (Vintera) -Sire V5 5-string |
#20
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I have both 1 11/16 & 1 3/4. I notice the difference. I play both and it doesn't matter much to me, if at all. A good setup is more important. I've played wider than 1 3/4 and didn't like them. To each his own.
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Martin D-16GT Martin GPC Special Yamaha FG800 |
#21
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My standard contribution to nut width threads is that I like all my guitars to feel similar and 1/16th” is a noticeable difference.
Since I play electric mostly I won’t buy a 1 3/4” acoustic. Take that all you 1 3/4” people 😉 |
#22
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I was going to write something quite similar but you beat me to it. Cheers!
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#23
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Every guitar I've ever owned has a 1 11/16" nut, and every one of those guitars is perfect. If my fingers ever get too fat for those nuts, I'll know it's time to go on a diet.
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1 dreadnought, 1 auditorium, 1 concert, and 2 travel guitars. |
#24
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I’m not sure if it’s psychological or physiological but I have a tough time playing the 1 11/16 nut. Maybe it’s for a lack of trying. I bought a Martin LX “Little Martin“ for a travel/couch guitar and I seem to deaden strings constantly. It’s to the point where I just don’t play that guitar much and am thinking of selling it. Somewhat likely if I played it more I’d become accustom to it.
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Martin GP 35E 2017 Gibson J-45 Standard 2019 Martin OM15 Custom 2019 |
#25
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You're ignoring the more important measurement: the size of the fingers. I have very thick fingers that are flatter on top than most others. A 1-11/16 nut has me muting a lot of strings inadvertently. It's a little better on a 1-3/4 but I can't really eliminate the problem until I get to 1-13/16 or higher.
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Jim 2023 Iris ND-200 maple/adi 2017 Circle Strings 00 bastogne walnut/sinker redwood 2015 Circle Strings Parlor shedua/western red cedar 2009 Bamburg JSB Signature Baritone macassar ebony/carpathian spruce 2004 Taylor XXX-RS indian rosewood/sitka spruce 1988 Martin D-16 mahogany/sitka spruce along with some electrics, zouks, dulcimers, and banjos. YouTube |
#26
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Wanna know what made me realize my two 1-11/16" guitars were just fine?
I started playing the Mandolin. Now when I pick up the PRS Hollowbody the fretboard seems like a freakin' parking lot. |
#27
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I didn’t really pay closer attention to nut width until I had a fretting hand injury flare up. Then things like scale length, neck shape, string spacing and neck taper all took on a new significance to me. I can now pretty much switch between 1 and 11/16ths to 1 and 3/4ths. Anything outside that range tweaks my injury.
Best, Jayne |
#28
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FWIW, published specs aren't all they're cracked up to be. I'd decided that 1 3/4" nuts were the way to go (my 1.75" Eastman E1OM is easier to play than my 1.72" Seagull S6), but then I tried a 1.69" Breedlove Organic Concerto and found it to be very comfortable and easy to play - so much so that I asked a salesperson to verify the specs for me.
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2022 Yamaha Red Label FGX3 2022 Guild Westerly Collection OM-120 2016 Taylor 416ce-R 2010 Squier Vintage Modified Jazzmaster 1974 Rickenbacker 4001 Bass |
#29
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I've never been able to tell the difference between a 1-11/16 and 1.75. To me they play identically. But I'm primarily a fingerpicker (American Primitive) and don't play Travis or "fingerstyle", so maybe my attack is of the type it wouldn't make a difference.
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https://markstonemusic.com - American Primitive Guitar in West Texas Instruments by Kazuo Yairi, Alvarez, Gibson & Taylor Former AGF Moderator |
#30
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The nut width is only important because it is the maximum spacing that can be between the E to the e strings. Realistically, within those boundaries, the strings can be spaced in many different ways and widths. I have played some 1 11/16th guitars that had wider string spacing than a 1 3/4 width nut. With very wide spacing, you just tend to lose the real estate on the edge of the fretboard, which can make fretting accuracy essential.
Every guitar can feel different based on a lot of factors. Nut width just being one. String spacing is the more important measurement. Stop worrying about your nuts! Just measure the spacing of the strings. Martin
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