Martin Binding Separating (cost to fix?)

[Skip Ellis]

This is the about the best repair procedure that I've seen:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inJd820kHv8

[leew3]

The tech that's repairing my guitars and Rokdog's said that Martin pays him $70 for each of these repairs. I assume this is for what I'd call each instance of binding separation on a guitar. However, I have no idea whether that would be the 'going rate' for these repairs. As Rokdog noted, ours are fortunately covered under warranty so though it shouldn't happen at all, no additional out of pocket for us.

[cliff_the_stiff]

Originally Posted by Skip Ellis

This is the about the best repair procedure that I've seen:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inJd820kHv8

When asking the experts at Schoenberg guitars about the repair of my Tweedy 00db binding (The third binding repair of this cursed guitar) she indicated that doing it right would require heating and elongation of the binding so it’s the right length before the re-glue. Otherwise folks just press it down, for it to pop back up later, or they fill the gap with glue.

[Skip Ellis]

Originally Posted by cliff_the_stiff

When asking the experts at Schoenberg guitars about the repair of my Tweedy 00db binding (The third binding repair of this cursed guitar) she indicated that doing it right would require heating and elongation of the binding so it’s the right length before the re-glue. Otherwise folks just press it down, for it to pop back up later, or they fill the gap with glue.

Yes, I agree that's called for if the gap is large enough. Mine, fortunately, have a very small gap and go back with little to no pressure as was the case with the one in the referenced video.

[blue-moon]

Originally Posted by madhat

I thought this issue had been resolved at Martin? this is a 2018 guitar- maybe built during the period when they were having this problem?
*feel bad for the OP - this would frustrate the heck outta me for sure

madhat.

Sorry. My mistake. It is a 2014.

[000Guy]

A great lover and supporter of Martin guitars, I am disappointed that the company has never formally admitted that this widespread defect exists. To my knowledge, this problem has affected the largest number of guitars since the misaligned bridges in the 1970s.
Does anyone know the production years affected by the binding issues? I've owned a 2014 and 2015 models that had loose binding.

[zoopeda]

Originally Posted by 000Guy

Does anyone know the production years affected by the binding issues?

Based on all the examples logged here and UMGF, late 2012 or early 2013 through at least 2020. Hopefully it got fixed after 2020.

[Br1ck]

Just started another thread on this subject. Me bad. Known issue. Warranty fix. I bought the guitar, also a 2014, at Gryphon. Had my guitar back in four working days. No fuss. First question was did I buy the guitar there? They are so swamped with work, they only do warranty work if you bought your Martin from them. But my new thread was directed to those with issues outside the problem years.

I get the feeling Martin pays much less than their going rate, so going by the fact someone is authorized to do Martin warranty work, I'd only equate that to willing to work cheaper, not necessarily the best luthier. If your shop is swamped with $100/ hr. work, why take $70 from Martin?

[cliff_the_stiff]

Originally Posted by Br1ck

Just started another thread on this subject. Me bad. Known issue. Warranty fix. I bought the guitar, also a 2014, at Gryphon. Had my guitar back in four working days. No fuss. First question was did I buy the guitar there? They are so swamped with work, they only do warranty work if you bought your Martin from them. But my new thread was directed to those with issues outside those years

My tweedy is a 2012 I believe and the only shrinking binding issue I’ve had.
I’ve had a 2005 000, two 2010 Grand Jumbos, and my current 07 Om28v and 2018 J40 will no notable binding issues.

[blue-moon]

Quick update. The binding is lifting in four spots on the waist. Basically all four spots (each about an inch long) are along the most extreme curvature of the waist (the lowest point/dip on the waist). It is the bass side front and back and treble side front and back.

Took it to an authorized Martin repair shop which is less than a mile from my house. He said it would be about $200 to fix it. So I left it there and he is currently working on it. He is said it is good that I brought it in when I did as the longer you wait, the more the binding will lift away and the greater the damage to the finish.

He said around the year that my guitar was made (2014), Martin was required by the state of Pennsylvania to change the formula of the glues they used. My guess it was either an state EPA issue or health issue (maybe the glue contained chemicals that cause cancer). He didn't say and I am just theorizing on that at this point on why they had to change. But if it is anything like California and its regulations, that make sense to me.

Anyway, Martin started using a new glue and have since changed the formulas. So it sounds like Martin had to keep tweaking the formula to get it right and those early years when they switched the formula was not quite right.

Oh well, in the scheme of things it is a first-world problem. Much bigger issues going on in the world to get upset about. Just glad I have a local place to take it and it is a reputable place. Guy knows his stuff.

[YamaYairi]

Originally Posted by L20A

I tried to reglue the binding on one of my guitars and it was a disaster.
I used superglue like was suggested but too much squirted out and got on the top of my guitar.
When I tried to wipe off the excess, the finish on the guitar came off.

Moral of the story,
If you don't know what you are doing, don't do it yourself.

Yeah, I asked my luthier friend what he uses and he told me fish glue. He told me Superglue eats the finish so I knew not to try that. I masked the front and side with corrugated cardboard and left the binding exposed, heated it with a hair dryer and then pushed it back in place when it got soft, holding it in place until it cooled. Then I injected the fish glue under the binding with a syringe, using an Exacto knife to work it into the gap and spread it around, then clamped it for 12 hours, wiping off excess glue with a wet rag. Came out perfect, you can't even tell anything was done. I read one luthier's instructions to stretch the binding outwards while heating but I deemed this risky and un-necessary.

[dnf777]

I would use fish or hide glue, if for only that its easier to clean up and blend, quite possibly saving much effort/time at the finishing bench.

Also, gently heating the loose binding will make it more pliable, giving you better apposition in the groove, and better clamping set up. If used properly, tape will probably give adequate clamping, but be careful when removing.

Since mine were under warranty, I let my local Martin-auth’d guy fix them. I had 1-2” at the waists pull loose, and he said it would have cost about $150 each, if I were paying for it.

[phcorrigan]

The Twelfth Fret in Portland, OR charged me $80 to repair it at two places. there is no visual damage to the finish, but if you try hard enough you can just barely feel the seam where the repair was made. I don't think they could have done a better job without refinishing. I'm very happy with the result.

[RichardN]

Surprising that Martin would only warrant the original owner. If it's a Martin guitar then Martin knows they are responsible for inadequate craftsmanship. Why would it matter who the current owner is.

[blue-moon]

Originally Posted by RichardN

Surprising that Martin would only warrant the original owner. If it's a Martin guitar then Martin knows they are responsible for inadequate craftsmanship. Why would it matter who the current owner is.

Save money. Don't have to take care of used instruments.