Uneven saddle slot depth

[JohnnyDes]

My new Eastman E20p has an uneven depth in its saddle slot, about 1/32" deeper on the low E end (7/32" at one end, 6/32" at the other). In addition, action is a little low and I have some buzzing when I play hard.

I figure my options are the following:

1. New saddle, shave to fit and angle bottom slightly as needed to achieve desired low and high E string height.

2. Install a saddle shim, and proceed as in 1.

3. Have a luthier refill the slot and reroute it.

Any opinions on the best route? The little parlor sounds incredible as is, although I'd like to remove the buzzing. I'd go with option 1 or 2 (and still might), but I've got a nagging feeling that the uneveness itself isn't linear - which would mean the saddle isn't making full contact throughout the slot.

JD

[Jim.S]

Provided the bottom of the saddle slot is straight Johnny it will be fine, the depth may vary if the top of the bridge is a little thinner on the high E side. Better and simpler to just put a new saddle in if you need to raise the low E side. If the bottom of the slot is not flat then that will be a problem so you should get that flat first if it is not already.

Jim

[bnjp]

You sure the bridge isn't thicker on the bass side? If so that's pretty normal and you just need a taller saddle (or a shim)

(Edit: Meant to say, "what Jim.S said!")

[Tony Done]

what Jim S said. Or glue a shim to the bottom of the saddle, then file it down to the correct angled height

[JohnnyDes]

Originally Posted by bnjp

You sure the bridge isn't thicker on the bass side? If so that's pretty normal and you just need a taller saddle (or a shim)

(Edit: Meant to say, "what Jim.S said!")

Hmmm. I'll take a look.

[Jim.S]

That's clever Tony, I have always just shaped up a new saddle but if you have never shaped one before as long as you do a good glue job I reckon it would be just as good as a new one.

Jim

[JohnnyDes]

OK you guys were right, the bridge itself is taller on the base side. From what you're saying, that's not unheard of, and perhaps done that way on purpose (it's a pyramid style bridge, FWIW).

Thanks guys, I'll have to send Bob Colosi a saddle for a template, but I think that seems like the way to go (the shim business sounds a little messy to me).

JD

[Ned Milburn]

JD, all the other posters are correct. And it is very common (more common than not) that acoustic guitar bridges are thicker on the bass side. This is to allow for a consistent saddle protrusion so that the bass and treble strings have a similar break angle over the saddle, since the bass strings are set up with higher action than the treble.

[John Arnold]

This is to allow for a consistent saddle protrusion so that the bass and treble strings have a similar break angle over the saddle, since the bass strings are set up with higher action than the treble.

Saddle protrusion is the main reason bridges are made thicker on the bass side. Though it does help equalize the break angle, it still won't be the same if you have an angled saddle and straight-across bridge pins.

BTW, that is one nice-looking guitar

[Halcyon/Tinker]

I'd go with the shim approach as well. Easy peasy...