|
|
#1
04-03-2011, 12:33 PM
|
|||
|
|||
Need KIT builders advice on neck angle
I have built many guitars using a flat surface-to-surface neck joint with inserts and bolts. I simply made the neck to fit up perfectly and I cut the correct neck angle into the heel of the neck. I have had great results and never felt a need to use a dove tail or tenon.
A friend asked me to help him build a KIT and it came with a dove tail joint. What are the tips from KIT builders on setting a dove tail neck block for the correct fall away? Can it be at a 45 degree angle to the top and then somehow file the dove tail joint on the neck to give it the proper fall away angle, or does the neck block need to be glued to the top and back with that angle incorporated before fitting the neck up? 
|
|
#2
04-03-2011, 03:11 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Its fun finding all these builders among us! HI!
I look forward to answers to your question. Neck angle is a horror to me still. My next neck joint is going to be a hybrid of sorts. I want to adopt a Collings approach.
|
|
#3
04-03-2011, 04:01 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
hi Christian,
We're talking about a Martin style kit, right? I prefer the dovetail. I'm not sure what you mean by 45 degrees. did you mean to say 90 degrees? It's not either the neck or the neck block, it's both. both of them have the angle built into them. the fallaway begins on your top. I like to use a dish with a 25' radius to sand my rim. then I make the portion of the rim above the soundhole flat so that the fingerboard extension will sit flat on the top. it makes a smoother transition, that way. it's not a 90 degree angle. ideally it should be 88.5 (the neck) or 91.5 (the body). this is part of it. you also have to make sure that your saddle and bridge are the right height and a straightedge layed on your neck or on your frets will give you good action. but it sounds like you will be good to go in that area.
__________________
Martin Lane / Grand Rapids, Michigan
|
|
#4
04-03-2011, 05:34 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
LOL - yes, I meant 90 degrees and it is a Martin kit he bought. I have used the 1.5 degree angle in my flat surface neck joint, so I am with you on that. Can you explain futher on this statement "It's not either the neck or the neck block, it's both. both of them have the angle built into them" ?? I am trying to picture this joint and the angle being built into it. Maybe it is just semantics. I appreciate your help. Thanks - Christian
|
|
#5
04-03-2011, 05:39 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
I guess anyone who is in love with acoustic guitars wants to build them. I just never had the experience of a KIT build before now. My first build was 20 years ago. Long before that, my Mama told me that if I didn't change my ways I would be destined to a life of petty crime and woodworking. Oh well... Regards, Christian
|
|
#6
04-03-2011, 05:48 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
oops sorry, I guess what I meant to say is that both the block and the neck should have angles cut into them, and that together the angles should add up to 180.
in some of the kits i've built, i've occasionally had some surprises when i assumed the parts were what I thought I had ordered. had an OM top shipped with a 000 guitar once. fret slots cut wrong, etc. it's good to proceed cautiously, measure EVERYTHING, and assume nothing. 
__________________
Martin Lane / Grand Rapids, Michigan
|
