#1
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Soldering Iron
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#2
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That was very interesting. Thanks for posting.
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#3
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How does he fill the large hole in the fret board. Seems wider than the fret wire. Does the burn from the iron in the dovetail do any real damage ?
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2010 Guild F47R 2009 G & L Tribute "Legacy" 1975 Ovation Legend 1986 Ovation 1758 12 String 2007 Walden G2070 2008 Guild D55 Prototype 1998 Guild Starfire IV 2016 Guild Newark St. X-175 Sunburst 1996 Ovation 1768-7LTD " custom " |
#4
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144 thou wide hole for access is wider than any fret I have ever fitted or know off, so at a guess, after burning / charring the dovetail or tenon you then have to patch the oversized hole before refitting the fret.
Some times I wonder why we try to re-invent the wheel, steam works perfectly fine, clearly the user is also steaming the joint as he puts water into cavity during the process, so I do not understand what advantages have been gained, I see heaps of dis-advantages so far. Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#5
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soldering iron
An opportunity for someone to sell a .144 plug cutter. You could cut a plug from the bottom of the fretboard right next to the exit hole for a good color match.
Ed |
#6
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Quote:
Hole can be filled the with black CA or clear CA or other glue with ebony dust. Charred surface wouldn't be a problem. You can always add wood shims if needed for repair or geometry change. |
#7
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I bought one of these and gave it a shot. It sucks. It's just another way to do it that is intended to sell tools.
Quote:
The hole size is the main reason I got rid of it. It does not matter what you do to fill it it will always extend past the edge of the fret that goes over the top. The charring that occurs is a problem. Charred wood is hard and creates a nasty spot on the wood that you can't hide easily without grinding a good bit past it. Another thing I don't recommend. Stew mac got this idea from a guy some years ago that did it with two rods going into the neck and adding heat from a battery. It's not a new thing. |
#8
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You wouldn't have to use a copper rod. You could use stainless with a relief machined so that it doesn't touch the fretboard.
And with stainless being a lot stronger, you could use a thinner rod, as well.
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Something something, beer is good, and people are crazy. |
#9
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Per one of the reviews: "A couple of observations: the tool diameter is .122". The supplied access hole drill bit is .144". Next time I'll drill a smaller. hole."
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#10
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Quote:
.125" is still wider than the widest available fretwire (6100). So there will still be evidence of a hole even if it were that diameter. Alot of guitars have lighter colored rosewood fretboards that CA and/or ebony dust mix simply will not blend well. Keep in mind that SM makes things to sell tools. Just because they make it does not mean that it is a good tool or idea. |
#11
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Found it, this is where Stew Mac stole this idea from. This guy did it better and with a much smaller hole.
http://www.luthing.com/steamless-nec...et-ian-davlin/ |
#12
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Those look better sized, still it worry’s me that it gets it to a temp where the fingerboard also starts to release. To me I can envisage kerfing coming loose, braces coming loose, neck blocks separating from the sides a well.
Steve
__________________
Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |