A McKnight Skinny Slope Dreadnaught for cigarfan

[lizzard]

Really sweet. With rosette, the snowflakes, and the woods, it feels visually very “Santa Fe” that’s just my take but if there’s such a thing as “art-rustic” this is it!

That Sitka, man....

[Tim McKnight]

Originally Posted by j. Kinnaird

Very very nice Tim.
What exactly are you using as pore filler?

Thanks John. I am using TAP brand marine grade epoxy resin system.
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/...poxy_system/27

I used to use their “Super Hard” epoxy resin system with excellent results. However, it has a slightly darker amber hue. It imparted a beautiful color but if one accidentally sanded through it and then finished over it the end result would show a significant color variation. Don’t ask how I know that tid bit.

The Marine Grade has the same hardness as the Super Hard resin but it doesn’t impart the dark amber hue. It’s nearly water white which works much better. I have used all three hardeners and the slow set is the most water white but you have to keep the epoxy in a room that is a minimum of 77*F during the cure. I have since switched to the fast set hardener which cures at a much lower temperature.

The trick to using epoxy as a pore filler is in the application and more importantly in the efficient removal of the excess. As you may have seen in the photos I slather it on the surface of the wood but that is the method of application to get the epoxy forced into the open pores of the wood with a good deal of manual force. After the surface is covered thoroughly then immediately I squeegee ALL of the excess material from the surface of the wood. The goal is to fill the pores and not leave ANY material proud of the surface. I use a 4” wide 3M auto body bondo application spreader to apply the epoxy and also to remove the excess. Then I follow up with a small credit card to remove the final bit of epoxy. After the epoxy cures for 48 hours, which is twice as long as the time to fully cure, then I block sand with 220 to scuff the surface and knock any small nibs down and proceed on with sealing and finishing. Hope that makes sense?

[cigarfan]

Spraying the sealer is next. Here we have the preparation materials and activities.









Then to the spray booth.











Tim says tomorrow is scuffing, sanding and spraying the burst. Should be fun (for us, not him).

[cigarfan]

I know it's a bit off topic but hey, it's my thread right?

I have to get me one of these!

[j. Kinnaird]

Originally Posted by Tim McKnight

Thanks John. I am using TAP brand marine grade epoxy resin system.
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/...poxy_system/27

I used to use their “Super Hard” epoxy resin system with excellent results. However, it has a slightly darker amber hue. It imparted a beautiful color but if one accidentally sanded through it and then finished over it the end result would show a significant color variation. Don’t ask how I know that tid bit.

The Marine Grade has the same hardness as the Super Hard resin but it doesn’t impart the dark amber hue. It’s nearly water white which works much better. I have used all three hardeners and the slow set is the most water white but you have to keep the epoxy in a room that is a minimum of 77*F during the cure. I have since switched to the fast set hardener which cures at a much lower temperature.

The trick to using epoxy as a pore filler is in the application and more importantly in the efficient removal of the excess. As you may have seen in the photos I slather it on the surface of the wood but that is the method of application to get the epoxy forced into the open pores of the wood with a good deal of manual force. After the surface is covered thoroughly then immediately I squeegee ALL of the excess material from the surface of the wood. The goal is to fill the pores and not leave ANY material proud of the surface. I use a 4” wide 3M auto body bondo application spreader to apply the epoxy and also to remove the excess. Then I follow up with a small credit card to remove the final bit of epoxy. After the epoxy cures for 48 hours, which is twice as long as the time to fully cure, then I block sand with 220 to scuff the surface and knock any small nibs down and proceed on with sealing and finishing. Hope that makes sense?

Thanks Tim
It does indeed make sense

If you sand through this epoxy coat while scuffing do you worry about those spots or do you just go ahead with the sealer coat?

[Tim McKnight]

Originally Posted by j. Kinnaird

Thanks Tim
It does indeed make sense

If you sand through this epoxy coat while scuffing do you worry about those spots or do you just go ahead with the sealer coat?

(IF) I sand through the epoxy pore filler I do apply another VERY thin spot coat just so there are no surprises under the finish. Luckily everything went as planned today and I did not sand through, phew!

[cigarfan]

Before the top burst is sprayed there is careful masking of rosette, purfling, back and sides.







Spraying of the burst is a stepped process, a little at a time. As Tim tells me, you can always add but it's extremely difficult (read that impossible) to take away.

First pass.







Second pass.





Final mixture and burst.





Tomorrow I will post the pictures of the first clear coat.

[Ukulele_Eddie]

Coming together very, very nicely!

[cigarfan]

Thanks for saying so Eddie. I think so too!

Before the clear coats begin the masking of rosette et al, is removed. Incredible the sharp edge this tape maintains. Special stuff.









Reflections, once the clear is sprayed, are inevitable but you get the idea. The true nature of our woods are showing themselves.











Next will be another round of scuffing and light sanding before the next coats of clear.

[TomB'sox]

Fantastic Dennis. The application of the burst is really artistry and Tim did a great job. Everything is just coming together great!

[Steve Kinnaird]

Originally Posted by cigarfan

Wow! That raises the pulse a few beats for sure!
Fellas, this is lovely. Congrats!

Steve

[Carmel Cedar]

Great looking burst! Tim's doing a wonderful job for you, Dennis. And that back... it looks almost alive, rippling with motion in the photo.

Can't wait to see the finished guitar!

[Mary]

Break time/Vacation day .... partially, at least.
Will you Still need me?
Will you still feed me?
When I’m 64?

[cigarfan]

Originally Posted by Mary

Break time/Vacation day .... partially, at least.
Will you Still need me?
Will you still feed me?
When I’m 64?

Just call. Although I can't visit right now I'll send a care package!

No wait … you aren't 64 yet!

[cigarfan]

Originally Posted by TomB'sox

Fantastic Dennis. The application of the burst is really artistry and Tim did a great job. Everything is just coming together great!

Thanks Tom. This burst was a bit more of a challenge than you all know but you are right ... Tim hit a home run!

Originally Posted by Steve Kinnaird

Wow! That raises the pulse a few beats for sure! Fellas, this is lovely. Congrats!
Steve

Why thank you Steve for the kind words. Every time I look at that Sapele my heart rate spikes!

Originally Posted by Carmel Cedar

Great looking burst! Tim's doing a wonderful job for you, Dennis. And that back... it looks almost alive, rippling with motion in the photo.
Can't wait to see the finished guitar!

Thanks Andy. The burst is really going to punch up the ab purfling and rosette. I really appreciate Tim and Mary and how much love is pouring into this guitar.