Need to protect guitar from case "teeth."

[Twitch]

Guitar cases with teeth is a real pet peeve of mine. The same tired design has been in use for decades. It would be a simple thing to build the case with a lip around the rim so that alignment teeth would not be necessary. And the latches should be spring-loaded to swing out of the way when they are unhooked. But no one does this, I truly wonder why?

I finally cut the cloth hinge stop on my Yamaha case. It was too short and the case lid would just barely stay open. Twice I got bit when it unexpectedly tilted closed. Yeah twice, shame on me.

[RickRS]

Originally Posted by Russ C

Another good trick is to put your guitar in its case, close the lid but not latch it.
I've done that one with a guitar and also a new Selmer sax on a concrete floor.

Oh, that trick. Done it myself. And when I picked up the case and the guitar fell out, those lid teeth put nasty gouges in the guitar top in two places.

At least the floor was carpeted so the floor didn't add to the damage...

[JayBee1404]

Originally Posted by Twitch

Guitar cases with teeth is a real pet peeve of mine. The same tired design has been in use for decades. It would be a simple thing to build the case with a lip around the rim so that alignment teeth would not be necessary. And the latches should be spring-loaded to swing out of the way when they are unhooked. But no one does this, I truly wonder why?

Ya think? Really?

Google ‘Hiscox cases’. In fact, don’t bother - here’s a link to their website, their cases have precisely the rim/lip and latch arrangement you described... https://www.hiscoxcases.com/

[turbotom1052]

Now that youve learned that lesson lemme clue you in on another pitfall to avoid. I learned the hard way that a plastic string winder has the ability to put dents into the side of your headstock if measures are not taken to avoid it!!!

[AcousticDreams]

Originally Posted by JayBee1404

Ya think? Really?

Google ‘Hiscox cases’. In fact, don’t bother - here’s a link to their website, their cases have precisely the rim/lip and latch arrangement you described... https://www.hiscoxcases.com/

I love, love my Hiscox Artist Case. Great protection and lots of room.

However...even with this magnificent case, your guitar is subject to small dents from the lid accidentally dropping down. Luckily for myself, the dents occurred on the back binding..so barely noticeable.

A stronger, better built case is always means more weight. Heavier case means heavier lid. Thus the only solution is to take more time taking the guitar out of the case..and or hold the lid with one hand.
I am most happy to have the better protection, yet there are still precautions one need take regardless.

[JayBee1404]

Originally Posted by Knives&Guitars

I love, love my Hiscox Artist Case. Great protection and lots of room.

However...even with this magnificent case, your guitar is subject to small dents from the lid accidentally dropping down. Luckily for myself, the dents occurred on the back binding..so barely noticeable.

A stronger, better built case is always means more weight. Heavier case means heavier lid. Thus the only solution is to take more time taking the guitar out of the case..and or hold the lid with one hand.
I am most happy to have the better protection, yet there are still precautions one need take regardless.

I agree 100%. Whatever the style of case, care always needs to be taken when putting the guitar in or taking it out.

[Deliberate1]

Originally Posted by turbotom1052

Now that youve learned that lesson lemme clue you in on another pitfall to avoid. I learned the hard way that a plastic string winder has the ability to put dents into the side of your headstock if measures are not taken to avoid it!!!

OP here. Ya, I passed, for that very reason, on a really lovely luthier-built guitar sold by one of the most renowned purveyors of top tier guitars. Someone was not paying attention and put circular gouges in the headstock as a result of incautious use of a mechanical winder of some kind. That is just the kind of thing that would happen to me if given half the chance. I'll stick with old school - finger and thumb. It made me wonder how much of a hit the price of a perfectly functional, high end guitar would take as a result of this kind of self-inflicted wound.

[Wade Hampton]

Well, those could probably get buffed out. If left unattended like that, sure, it could knock the price down a little bit. But I've never seen marks left by string cranks that went so deep that they couldn't be buffed out - it's not as though they gouge all the way through the finish into the wood.

None that I have ever seen have, anyway. The guy selling that custom guitar was just remiss for not getting that taken care of before trying to sell the instrument.

I should qualify that by saying that if the finish on the guitar is nitrocellulose, those marks can get buffed out. With other finishes like UV-cured polyester, I'm not as certain that it's as easy to correct.


whm

[gitarro]

I find that the most important thing to remember is when you open the case to make sure that the lid is able to fall completely back when the case is open. The chances of the lid falling back closed again and the teeth catching the guitar top will be much less

[leew3]

Originally Posted by sakar12

I always hold the case open with one hand while removing my guitar with the other. You can never be too careful.

Tough lesson that seemingly all of us need to learn, unfortunately.

We have a best answer here ^^^

[Twitch]

Google ‘Hiscox cases’. In fact, don’t bother - here’s a link to their website, their cases have precisely the rim/lip and latch arrangement you described... https://www.hiscoxcases.com/

Yes sorry I should have been more specific. I meant the standard hard shell cases supplied by instrument manufacturers at the original time of the guitar purchase. Of course you can pay big $ for a second Hiscox or other super premium case but my point is you shouldn't have to. The original ones could easily be made much better.

[Deliberate1]

Originally Posted by leew3

We have a best answer here ^^^

OP here. Sorry y'all have had similar experiences. Now, when I remove the guitar from the case, I first tilt the case back to put the top well beyond 90 degrees, so it will not flop down on its own. Then my left hand grabs the neck at around first fret and my right grabs the neck where it connects with the body. And I keep my right arm bent to block the top from striking, if it tries anything bad. And I do it with intent - living in the moment.
David

[MikeBmusic]

Originally Posted by Deliberate1

OP here. I like this, though I might reverse the steps.
On a more serious note, how do you manage the humidity issue. I use Humidipaks which keep the moisture level at about 40-44% in a closed case. I live in Maine, and it gets very dry in the winter. Even with the room humidifier I have where I keep my two guitars, it struggles to get to 38%, especially in the dead of winter when a trip to the garage can suck the water out of your pores.

Yes, that is what we deal with in New England. When I was living in an older house, I knew that to try to keep the house's humidity over 40% was not a good idea during the coldest stretches of winter weather - condensation on the inside of windows, moisture running down can rot out windows' framing and sills.
I kept the whole-house humidifier at 35%, then used in-case sponges to keep the humidity in the cases around 45%. It meant re-wetting sponges frequently, but in the end isn't it better to work a little harder to preserve our 'babies'?

[valleyguy]

Originally Posted by dan!

My personal philosophy is that the humidity concerns are way overblown. If my guitars are anywhere in the 30-60% range, then I’m happy.

I’ve actually got a REALLY wild theory that temperature and humidity swings cause a guitar to expand and contract in a manner that helps it open up and resonate better. Those hundred year old Martins that make everybody weak in the knees? How do we think they were treated for the first decades of their life before AGF was invented and stoked paranoia?

ABSOLUTELY, couldn't agree more. I've bought 20 and 30 year old guitars I know have not been humidified and they are just fine and sound GREAT.

I actually use a 20% to 60% range, though if humidity is under 20% for a week, I MIGHT case my better guitars with a baggie and a damp sponge.

Back to the OP's dilemma, that first ding, gouge, etc I know is devastating, but I consider it mojo, every guitar should have some. The guitar is something to be used not treated with kid gloves like a museum piece. That said, I do assiduously avoid those teeth on a case, hate 'em.

Just my 2 cents....

[maxtheaxe]

Originally Posted by L20A

You could cut the teeth off. The case will still work.

I've actually seen cases with sort of shortened latch teeth...I thought, "well, good idea". My Taylor 412k has a few 'case bites' in the top from when I was living on my boat, where the slightest shifting of my weight would cause the boat to rock a little bit and the top would fall shut right when I was taking the guitar out.

I was tempted to cut the little strap, but I also wondered why they seem to think it has to be open at a right angle...I would think it would be better if the lid were held open at somewhat past the 90* vertical.

Maybe one could just add a couple inches to that little strap...?