#46
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I bought an Eastman MD315 almost two years ago. I messed with it some, but it has mostly sat in its bag....until about 4 weeks ago. I pulled it out of its bag, tuned it up (it was actually pretty much in tune still) and started working on it. I told myself, much like I told myself 32 years ago with the guitar, "I am going to learn to play this thing." Boy, am I having fun with it! The MD315 is a fine little instrument.
As a side-effect, I find it has reinvigorated my guitar playing. |
#47
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Yep, my experience has been that all of the fretted string instruments tend to cross-pollinate each other. That’s why I play a number of different instruments: working on one will give me insights that I can turn around and use on another.
Wade Hampton Miller |
#48
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Those 315 Eastmans are the best of the bunch IMHO. I started with an MD 505 which I credit with hooking me good, but was soon looking for better. Such is the addiction. There are a lot of fiddle tunes on Mandolessions.com. It's free and has all levels of tunes you can learn.
Because you will develop a more precise and compact picking motion, your accuracy with a flatpack on guitar will improve. Beware though, picking cleanly on either instrument will be an obsession.
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2007 Martin D 35 Custom 1970 Guild D 35 1965 Epiphone Texan 2011 Santa Cruz D P/W Pono OP 30 D parlor Pono OP12-30 Pono MT uke Goldtone Paul Beard squareneck resophonic Fluke tenor ukulele Boatload of home rolled telecasters "Shut up and play ur guitar" Frank Zappa |
#49
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#50
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Although not a mandolin, Emerald's Amicus https://emeraldguitars.com/models/amicus/ is a great substitute for guitar players who want to produce a mandoliny sound without learning a whole new set of chords. And as a bonus you'll never have to worry about temperature changes and humidity with an Amicus...
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Emerald X20 Emerald X20-12 Fender Robert Cray Stratocaster Martin D18 Ambertone Martin 000-15sm Last edited by RP; 10-12-2023 at 03:07 PM. |
#51
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Rob |
#52
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My mandolins stay reasonably "in tune" between playings, but I keep them in the case. I will say that they're not usually at A-440, where I'd left them, but they seem to change just gradually, and somewhat uniformly, across [all] the courses, so I can pick them up and play without immediately spending a lot of time tuning. Might have to turn a key or two to get a pair sounding the same, but until I'm trying to play along to a recording, it's "close enough for bluegrass," as they say.
If I really want to be in tune (A-440), I have to get out the tuner and I'm adjusting all the strings, usually. I think a new instrument is going to still be moving around and drying out, etc. for a few years before it's more stable. And keeping them in a case is going to keep it from being subjected to a lot of changes, so I'd suggest doing that.
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"I know in the morning that it's gonna be good, when I stick out my elbows and they don't bump wood." - Bill Kirchen |
#53
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I decided spending $3k on a Northfield F5S would be what I'd have to do. After that it's well over $5k and more, way more. I finally found a Weber I liked used, after three years looking for a sub $4k mandolin with some nice inlay and full binding. This happened a few months after I gave up looking. Likely with a 315, you are already scroll addicted. The new Gibson at a mere $6k is about as nice as you will get for your money.
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2007 Martin D 35 Custom 1970 Guild D 35 1965 Epiphone Texan 2011 Santa Cruz D P/W Pono OP 30 D parlor Pono OP12-30 Pono MT uke Goldtone Paul Beard squareneck resophonic Fluke tenor ukulele Boatload of home rolled telecasters "Shut up and play ur guitar" Frank Zappa |
#54
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#55
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The 315 will serve you well. It is the one F style I'd recommend, IMHO the class of affordable mandolins. More money and worth it, I check out a Kentucky 1000 or 1050. After that a Northfield, but the F 5S is around $3500 now, a used one for $2500 would be something to buy IMHO.
The 315 though is dandy until you decide to get serious.
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2007 Martin D 35 Custom 1970 Guild D 35 1965 Epiphone Texan 2011 Santa Cruz D P/W Pono OP 30 D parlor Pono OP12-30 Pono MT uke Goldtone Paul Beard squareneck resophonic Fluke tenor ukulele Boatload of home rolled telecasters "Shut up and play ur guitar" Frank Zappa |
#56
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For simplicty, let's look at the key of C. A basic first position C chord (from the low G string to the high E) is fretted 5-2-3-0 (yes with 15+ years on mandolin and 50+ on fiddle I'm aware there are other ways to play a C, or any chord). Move this shape one set of strings lower (2-3-0-1) and you have an F (IV chord). Go back to C and move the fingers one set of strings higher (0-5-2-3) and you have a G chord (V). This symmetry is constant in all keys and all positions. I've seen several of these "cheater" style mandolins, banjos, etc. My advice and encouragement is to embrace the native tuning(s) of non-guitar instruments. It opens lots of doors for learning and playing. |
#57
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I agree. In my experience, tuning a mandolin or a banjo in a guitar-like tuning just makes them crappy little guitars. The original tuning makes a huge difference in the sound that you get.
whm |
#58
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I picked up a Gold Tone mandoguitar in a store - and put it right back down. The GAS giants were not moved by it.
D.H. |
#59
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I'm putting off restringing the F9. The picker I loaned ot to for a gig removed all the strings and didn't seat the bridge properly.
I looked up the correct positioning but am a combination of lazy, procrastinating, and otherwise uninspired. I've been spending my time on electric guitar. |
#60
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