replace maple bridge on vintage 28?

[bryantjudoman]

My 54 d-28 had a bridge that was lifting up and subsequently warping the top of the guitar. I took it in to have it fixed at a authorized martin repair shop near our home. Now I am hearing from the luthier that he wants to replace the old maple bridge plate. He says it is also a bit warped. he also stated that he could possibly steam it and straighten it but has chosen not too for an unknown reason. I am worried that a replaced bridge plate will affect the sound and value...any thoughts? thank you.

[charles Tauber]

I'd have to see photos to see what "warped top" means.

I would not likely replace the bridge plate unless it was too small. (Some, of certain ages, had small bridge plates.) In my experience, proper gluing and clamping of the bridge will likely flatten the top appropriately. The bridge is the largest, heaviest brace on the top. But, I'd have to see it/photos of it prior to committing to an opinion.

That said, it largely boils down to how much faith you have in the authorized Martin repair shop and their recommendations.

[L20A]

I would trust the advice and have a new plate installed.
One that is the same size and material as the old one.

The plate in my 1981 D-35 is a large Rosewood plate.
Many people suggest that I have that plate replaced with a smaller Maple plate.

If the old plate ever needs to be replaced, I will go with the smaller Maple plate.
Right now it ain't broke so I won't fix it.

[jim1960]

Originally Posted by bryantjudoman

I am worried that a replaced bridge plate will affect the sound and value...any thoughts? thank you.

The repair itself is going to change the sound to some degree, so I don't see this as an issue. As for replacing the bridge plate, I understand the desire to keep the guitar all original, but if the bridge plate is beyond repair or would be a source of a potential future problem, replacing it is the right thing to do rather than risk additional damage. But that has to be your call since none of us can see the bridge plate.

[mkatz]

I wouldn't replace it unless it's absolutely necessary. They should be able to straighten it out.

Mitch

[jimmy bookout]

If he does replace it, make sure he uses a maple plate. Part of Martin "lore" is the small maple bridge plates that were used until the late 1960's, when Martin went to larger, rosewood plates. The introduction of the "HD28" in the 1970's (or 1980's, I can't remember) was Martin's attempt to bring back the "pre-war" construction. The larger rosewood plate guitars were Martin's reaction to folks using heavier strings during the "Folk" boom.

[Wade Hampton]

Jim wrote:

Originally Posted by jim1960

The repair itself is going to change the sound to some degree, so I don't see this as an issue. As for replacing the bridge plate, I understand the desire to keep the guitar all original, but if the bridge plate is beyond repair or would be a source of a potential future problem, replacing it is the right thing to do rather than risk additional damage. But that has to be your call since none of us can see the bridge plate.

I agree with Jim here. Fighting to keep everything original represents an unnecessary risk if one of those original parts fails and has to be replaced to maintain the overall structural integrity of the guitar.

Since no Martin-certified repair tech would tell you something like this on a whim, or as an underhanded attempt to drum up more business (those guys get legitimate repair requests stacked up in a waiting list, there's so much demand) I would suggest that you follow the recommendation and get the work done.

No good repair tech I've ever met particularly enjoys doing this sort of repair, as it's fairly demanding. So if he told you it needs to be done, I would let him do it.

Hope this helps.


Wade Hampton Miller

[Goodallboy]

Originally Posted by bryantjudoman

My 54 d-28 had a bridge that was lifting up and subsequently warping the top of the guitar. I took it in to have it fixed at a authorized martin repair shop near our home. Now I am hearing from the luthier that he wants to replace the old maple bridge plate. He says it is also a bit warped. he also stated that he could possibly steam it and straighten it but has chosen not too for an unknown reason. I am worried that a replaced bridge plate will affect the sound and value...any thoughts? thank you.

I believe it would lower the value of your guitar.

I'd promptly take Mr. Taubers advice and hold up, get a second opinion.

The devaluation would be more costly than paying for the proper repair, IMO.

[jimmy bookout]

Charles mentions "small bridge plates"....the Martin the OP has IS a small maple bridge plate guitar. If, indeed, the bridge plate is toast, then it MUST be replaced with the same size, maple bridge plate. Going to a bigger bridge plate would wreck the value of the guitar. Replacing a failed plate with the same size/material plate will NOT. The guitar is 65 years old, things happen.

PS. It sounds like the top has bellied and possibly to the point that it caused the bridge to start pulling up. If that is indeed what caused the bridge to pull up, then the bridge plate might need replacing. Get the bridge off of it and let the top relax and...see what happens

[bryantjudoman]

Thanks to all who replied. The fella who is doing the work is highly respected in the Vancouver area so I am going to trust in his recommendations and get the work done. I sure appreciate this site.

[mirwa]

I do not understand why a bridge plate would be replaced if its warped, the only time I ever replace a bridge plate is when Its actually cracked or destroyed from string ball ends.

A warped bridge plate and or top is typically flattened during a post bridge removal steaming / clamping process



Steve

[blindboyjimi]

PLEASE DO NOT REPLACE YOUR BRIDGE PLATE.



There must be some misunderstanding here. The bridge plate is on the inside of the guitar and is made of Maple. The bridge is on the outside and is made of Ebony (or Rosewood on other guitars). Both are hard materials. The top (Sitka) can warp but it’s unlikely to be a warped bridge or plate. Usually a brace will become loose and the top will warp thereby popping off the bridge. People do not understand that 99% of Martin Authorized shops know nothing about vintage restoration. You need a vintage expert. A nice 1954 D-28 should be worth $8,000-$9,500. You will loose at least $1,500 if you replace the bridge plate and about $500 if you replace the bridge and it is expected that the saddle will have been replaced, but nice if it hasn’t been. Almost every bridge plate can be saved. You can PM me for a list of Martin vintage restoration shops.

Here’s a photo of the repaired bridge plate on my 1956 D-28. The chewed up plate was filled with Maple sawdust and epoxy. Your are seeing a touch of blue from the painter’s tape that was covering the rest of the bridge. That will go away. Now the pins are tight and the ferrules locked onto the original plate for maximal tonal efficiency.
IMG_1493.jpg

[bryantjudoman]

I have gotten cold feet and have asked the shop NOT to replace the original bridge plate until I get a second opinion. Then we can discuss the work further. Once again thanx for all the help.

[John Arnold]

The top (Sitka) can warp but it’s unlikely to be a warped bridge or plate.

Actually, the bridgeplate can warp once the bridge lifts. But it can easily be flattened with a little moisture and heat, prior to gluing the bridge.
Bridges that lift partially can also warp, particularly the wings. But those can also be straightened with heat.
I don't replace bridgeplates due to string ball wear. That is repaired with CA glue and wood dust.
A 1954 D-28 has the low-X bracing pattern that is susceptible to loose X-braces in the bridge area. This usually causes creases in the top below the bridge.