UV finish on rosewoods

[SoundslikeaDuck]

I make musical instruments for entertaining waterfowl and I am searching for someone who is proficient in UV finishes to finish a checkered rosewood piece. Unique to the situation is there can be no sanding! Seal the grain and spray the UV. Has to be thin because of the intricate detail. Anybody want to give it a shot? I expect nothing free and looking for a finish commensurate with the instruments quality.

[Arthur Blake]

I'm far from expert, but guessing sprayed polyurethane?

https://www.google.com/#q=sprayed+po...inish+for+wood

[SoundslikeaDuck]

Thanks for the information. I am specifically looking for someone who can apply a UV cured finish. I was given advice to visit here and ask the community.

[LouieAtienza]

Taylor Guitars uses UV curing on a large scale. As to small builders, Michael Greenfield comes to mind, though I'd hazard a guess this is a project he probably wouldn't take on. Not too many smaller builders use it because of the expense of the equipment.

Then again, is there a specific reason for UV finishing other than speed of curing, that would necessitate the process?

[B. Howard]

I do UV cured finishes. Email with details

[mirwa]

I would not recommend uv for the purpose you are after.

The surface needs to be uv gel'd first, the gel needs to be sanded with 220 grit and sanded again after being cured.

Then a clear coat can be done, uv paints adhere by mechanical means.

On rose woods especially you need a sealer coat as well as the oils in the wood create adhesion problems, the oils can also bubble out of the wood and cause craters in the surface during the curing process from the intense heat given from the curing lamps.

A rubbed uv gel finish may meet your requirements, in this scenario, we rub the sealer into the wood allow it to be absorbed and then rub the gel into the wood, this will protect the wood, be incredibly thin and have a satin finish.

Steve

[SoundslikeaDuck]

Originally Posted by B. Howard

I do UV cured finishes. Email with details

I will call you around 1est today. Look forward to speaking with you.

[SoundslikeaDuck]

Originally Posted by mirwa

I would not recommend uv for the purpose you are after.

The surface needs to be uv gel'd first, the gel needs to be sanded with 220 grit and sanded again after being cured.

Then a clear coat can be done, uv paints adhere by mechanical means.

On rose woods especially you need a sealer coat as well as the oils in the wood create adhesion problems, the oils can also bubble out of the wood and cause craters in the surface during the curing process from the intense heat given from the curing lamps.

A rubbed uv gel finish may meet your requirements, in this scenario, we rub the sealer into the wood allow it to be absorbed and then rub the gel into the wood, this will protect the wood, be incredibly thin and have a satin finish.

Steve

I'm past recommendations for an alternative as I have used UV with excellent results, results achieved by an experienced hand who is no longer around to lay it down for me. He got the grain filled and sealed so the UV wouldn't puddle and not harden under the surface. I almost want to say he used UV sealer only to get fantastic results. Looking for protection from the elements and a thin uniform shiny or satin coat, no buffing afterwards.

Have you applied your gel coat to anything checkered? I can imagine it would be hard to get a thin uniform coat on the checkered area by hand. But who knows until you try?

[mirwa]

All good, if you have had it done before successfully then that is good.

Going by the description you gave, it sounded like no sanding was allowed (super critical) for this reason I was recommending not to use UV, it requires the gel coat to be sanded before any clear coats.

I do warranty resprays for Taylor here in Australia and have been using UV for around 6 yrs now, it really is a good product but expensive for the average person to have and to justify the outlay for, ideally Brian will sort it out for you.

Steve

[SoundslikeaDuck]

Originally Posted by mirwa

All good, if you have had it done before successfully then that is good.

Going by the description you gave, it sounded like no sanding was allowed (super critical) for this reason I was recommending not to use UV, it requires the gel coat to be sanded before any clear coats.

I do warranty resprays for Taylor here in Australia and have been using UV for around 6 yrs now, it really is a good product but expensive for the average person to have and to justify the outlay for, ideally Brian will sort it out for you.

Steve

The no sanding is critical to the fine lines, highly unusual to not sand.

[Rodger Knox]

I'll recommend Brian for the job, he's the expert when it comes to putting finish on wood. Not just nitro lacquer on guitars, but any finish on any wood. He comes from a long line of woodworkers, and learned all the "old school" methods from them, and kept abreast of the technology as new types of finish have been developed.

[SoundslikeaDuck]

Originally Posted by Rodger Knox

I'll recommend Brian for the job, he's the expert when it comes to putting finish on wood. Not just nitro lacquer on guitars, but any finish on any wood. He comes from a long line of woodworkers, and learned all the "old school" methods from them, and kept abreast of the technology as new types of finish have been developed.

A ringing endorsement! Always love these when they affirm my choice! Thanks.

[SoundslikeaDuck]

The suspense is killing me!!!

[Neil K Walk]

Are we to assume that you sent it to B Howard and are awaiting the results? If so, please post pics when you receive it.

[SoundslikeaDuck]

Love the forum name and will post pics. Can someone explain how to manage attachments for this forum please?