Thomastik Plectrum 0.11's (ac111) review

[ztbishop]

I just wanted to come back and comment after playing on the Plectrum AC111 for a while. I can't believe how easy these strings are to play. I'd have to go with a smaller gauge silk & steel to even come close. I don't know what kind of voodoo magic was used to make these. At this point the only strings that I can barre a chord easier would be my nylon guitar.

[121]

Originally Posted by ztbishop

Those V25 strings look VERY interesting.
I just put a set of Thomastik Plectrum on my fingerstyle guitar and GHS Silk & Bronze on my Dread for flat-picking.

How would you compare the V25 to Plectrum?
I assume V25 would be better for Jazz / swing / gypsy?
However would the Plectrum be better overall if not limited to a Jazz guitar? (Fingerstyle in general)?
I'd expect the plectrum strings to last a very long time for me, so I guess I might try the V25 next year.

I never purchased or tried Plectrum strings because of the round wound string/strings in the Plectrum string sets.
I prefer all the wound strings in a string set to be flat wound strings.
Because of the silk inlay in the wound strings,
I think the Plectrum might have a softer sound than the Nightclub V25.
I believe (please correct me if I'm wrong) the Plectrum wound strings are on a hex core, and I suspect the overall tension might be a little higher than the Nightclub V25 because Plectrum's larger diameter wound strings.

Plectrum AC111 .011 .014 .019w .027 .036 .050

Nightclub V25 .011 .014 .016w .022 .030 .042

The Dogal Nightclub are 80/20 Bronze flat wound on round core.
The Nightclub V25 are very easy to play and they seem to last a long time.
I also use Galli 80/20 Bronze flat wound strings but they don't have the smoother feel that I like with the Dogal V25.
The Galli aren't as pricey as the Nightclub strings, so I use the Galli on some of my acoustic guitars.

[RJVB]

Oldish but not ancient thread.
I understand that these are round cores.

I just put these on my Seagull mini-jumbo because the Earthwood Silk & Brass even in "Soft" (11-52) was beginning to be a bit much. I was fearing more fret buzz and a loss of power, but neither are true (not as long as I don't strum too hard).

In fact, the guitar very quickly sounded louder to my ears, as if it had been muted by too high a string tension. The thin trebles do sound a bit jangly so I may go back to a 12" E1 and 15" B (GHS brass-plated), and I'm relieved to read that the chimyness in the wound strings will disappear.

The Earthwood SIlk & Brass also exist in a similar, extra-soft tension; has anyone compare them. THey're expensive too here in Europe, but less than the Thomastiks...

[sonic romp]

I just loved these on my all-mahogany 0-17. That guitar did great with everything I tried, but loved TI Plectrums best.

[bloozeman]

Originally Posted by raysachs

I just bought a set of 11s for my Emerald X7 and they sound really nice on it. But they do play really light and I was thinking about ordering a set of 12s to see if I prefer them. But I'm a little freaked out that the low E jumps all the way from a pretty light 50 with the ac111 strings all the way up to a very heavy 59 on the ac112 set. Do the 12s play a lot heavier than the 11s as a result in the much heavier bass strings?

I'd like to kow this answer as well. Can anybody comment?

[Tempotantrum]

I have a set of the 12's on a Brazilian/Adi OM. They are warmer then the phosphor bronze I normally use, also more fundamental and less harmonics. I think they do allow the guitar and it's unique tone to shine through a little more. The downside (in addition to the cost) is that they lack some punch when flatpicking. They do record very well though which I think is part of the marketing for these strings. I intend to have a set around to use when I want to record this particular guitar, but will keep the PB on in between. Also the quality of these strings is top notch - love the silk wrap.

[RJVB]

Originally Posted by RJVB

I just put these on my Seagull mini-jumbo

And ... I just had to throw out the G string. I wasn't paying attention, didn't notice it developed fretwear (the others haven't!) and when I shifted it today (*) I had to notice that the wafer thin winding had already worn through.

I'd already ordered an Earthwood Silk & Steel in Extra Soft which has a 20 gauge G, close enough to the AC111 G. It's round wound though, and has a hex core, so we'll see how it fits in once broken in. Initial impression is that it sings less well (sounds deader) up the fretboard, curiously.

I'm a bit disappointed though, with the amount of playing this guitar gets and returns I read on here, I'd have expected a longer lifetime. The plating on the trebles seems to be gone too where I play them, mostly.

*) unmount, make a simple knot just above the ball (still possible with this gauge G string, but I used plyers to help it tighten) and reinstall. This shifts the worn place towards the saddle, away from the frets.

Originally Posted by Tempotantrum

I have a set of the 12's on a Brazilian/Adi OM.

Can you comment on the gauge of the lower strings? Even if you never tried the AC111 set with it's 50 gauge low E you could compare it to your usual sets of 12's which probably don't have a 59 gauge low E either?

[OPJ77]

The descriptions of these strings remind me of the descriptions I read about monel strings. Is my thinking taking a wrong turn here?

[Taylor Ham]

Originally Posted by RJVB

*) unmount, make a simple knot just above the ball (still possible with this gauge G string, but I used plyers to help it tighten) and reinstall. This shifts the worn place towards the saddle, away from the frets.

Ouch!

You could try cutting a ball end off another old string, and then slipping it over the worn string. this will give you the same spacer effect but will also probably be better for your bridgeplate.

[Brucebubs]

Originally Posted by OPJ77

The descriptions of these strings remind me of the descriptions I read about monel strings. Is my thinking taking a wrong turn here?

Monels are a tone shift that can take a while to settle. I've always found TI Plectrums superb straight out of the packet, even better on day 2 then a gradual loss of volume and sustain .. but hey, that's just me.

[RJVB]

Originally Posted by Taylor Ham

Ouch!

You could try cutting a ball end off another old string, and then slipping it over the worn string. this will give you the same spacer effect but will also probably be better for your bridgeplate.

I wondered about the bridgeplate too, and then realised that the entire ball end can't exactly be kind to it (and the "ball" itself a lot harder than a knot in a 20-gauge string). Your idea is sound though, but I'd probably need a few balls to create enough of a shift.

Originally Posted by OPJ77

The descriptions of these strings remind me of the descriptions I read about monel strings. Is my thinking taking a wrong turn here?

The only parallel I see is that Monel strings also take quite a while to lose their initial brightness. Other than that ... the silk-and-steel and partially flat-wound design of the Plectrums alone is enough to make for a different sound signature.
Both winding alloys probably give a more vintage sound than phosphor-bronze (simply because PB wasn't used until somewhere in the 70s IIRC).

[OPJ77]

Originally Posted by RJVB

I wondered about the bridgeplate too, and then realised that the entire ball end can't exactly be kind to it (and the "ball" itself a lot harder than a knot in a 20-gauge string). Your idea is sound though, but I'd probably need a few balls to create enough of a shift.




The only parallel I see is that Monel strings also take quite a while to lose their initial brightness. Other than that ... the silk-and-steel and partially flat-wound design of the Plectrums alone is enough to make for a different sound signature.
Both winding alloys probably give a more vintage sound than phosphor-bronze (simply because PB wasn't used until somewhere in the 70s IIRC).

Plectrums are silk wound or just that specific set is silk wound?

[RJVB]

Plectrum are silk-and-steel, meaning the wound strings have a thin layer of silk (real or artificial) between the winding and the core. This makes them both a bit more comfortable to play and sound warmer, more like nylon strings.

They're also silked, i.e. the peg-end is wrapped with a classy red thread.

[Deliberate1]

I used their 10-41 on a Huss & Dalton 000 and was shocked at their sweet voice and resonance. No break-in time. And the easiest playing string ever. Sounded almost like a classical guitar. Tried the 11-50 (?) on a Bourgeois Slope D and, no way. I think the top was just too stiff for them, which is the reason I also sold the guitar. I just got a Webber 00 and cannot wait to mount a set.

David

[soma5]

Originally Posted by raysachs

I just bought a set of 11s for my Emerald X7 and they sound really nice on it. But they do play really light and I was thinking about ordering a set of 12s to see if I prefer them. But I'm a little freaked out that the low E jumps all the way from a pretty light 50 with the ac111 strings all the way up to a very heavy 59 on the ac112 set. Do the 12s play a lot heavier than the 11s as a result in the much heavier bass strings?

I use the 12s on one of my guitars and it sounds magnificent. They play like regular lights, regardless of the huge low E. There might be an issue with the low E nut slot being too tight, though.

I have a set of 11s that I have not yet tried. It has been a couple of years...