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#16
02-01-2013, 01:24 PM
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The no-name guitar, tested three times in the span of time since last post by fretting each string ( after tuning the 5th,open, to the 6th at 5th fret and so on) at each fret and 12th harmonics results in only one adjustment to the 6 th string and not by enough to remove the brass fret saddle and bridge to replace it with a new top load bridge and bone saddle. I don't think I'm far along enough to be able to make it any better than it already is. Later this month when I've had a few more practice runs on two others i am working with.
I have disassembled the bodies from the fretboards, removed the laminate tops and bottoms, and have only the sides to work from. After I get these in working order with new Ad spruce top on one and mahogany bottom and red cedar top and padauk bottom on the other, I may tackle the no name. 
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#17
02-01-2013, 01:42 PM
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A lot of those old parlor guitars have straight saddles too. That is to say the saddle is perpendicular to the strings (not accounting for the minor angles the line of the string makes). Today's steel string guitars have a slanted saddle to add even more compensation to the bass strings. I have a parlor guitar with the saddle located exactly at the scale length... No compensation. It's a great sounding guitar but I have to tune it in the particular key of the song I will play on it otherwise it's impossible to tune. I need to fix that one day by adding compensation.
No matter what you do you will never get a guitar to tune accurately. You have to settle for a best fir over all keys. But to my ear and to most of the players I've built for a standard compensation on a steel string guitar set .1 inches longer than the scale length is a reasonably acceptable.
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