|
|
#1
09-01-2017, 08:41 AM
|
|||
|
|||
Query about lowering action.
Hi, please advise me (I need to know how to ask my tech man - plus I'm just inquisitive.
I'm really fussy about action and had a tech who knew exactly how to set up my guitars for years but he's moved to Wales. Due to my illness I haven't been playing much for most of the year, but decided to change strings on two of my guitars and measure the action (which I suspected). For many years, my preference on all my guitars, standard or short scale, light or medium strings was to have an action of about .110" bass and .080" treble at 12th. I'll admit that relief varies a little but usually about .006-.008" Two guitars - my oldest Collings dread measures .115" bass, and .090" treble (.008" relief) and my newest - a Waterloo WL-12 measures .115" bass and .085" treble with .005" relief. My first thought was to ask him to simply take .010" off the bottom of both saddles, but then wondered if that is right thing to ask. I'd be grateful if someone could explain what they would do if asked to lower the action (at 12th) by just .010" ?? Thanks in advance.
__________________
Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! 
|
|
#2
09-01-2017, 09:45 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
So if somebody asked me to lower the action by .010", and wanted it done by removing material from the bottom of the saddle, then that is what I would do. I would point out that in certain circumstances I would prefer to set the action on each string individually, by removing material from the top of the saddle, but if they didn't want to pay the extra for doing that, then I would do as they asked. If you are asking by what method the material would be removed from the bottom of the saddle, I do it with the saddle held in a sliding fixture on the table of my disk sander, which ensures perfect flatness and squareness, as well as the removal of the correct amount of material.
|
|
#3
09-01-2017, 10:12 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Lowering the saddle, either from the top or bottom, is the only way to lower the action, other than having the neck reset.
Lowering the saddle also lowers the height of the strings above the soundboard, which may affect the tone. At some point lowering the strings above the top has enough adverse impact to justify resetting the neck angle to restore the original height of the strings above the soundboard.
__________________
Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al
|
|
#4
09-01-2017, 11:31 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I would take a good look at your guitars and watch you play before telling you what I think should be done.
I don't do many setups anymore except on what I build, but my approach is that the customer tells me what results he or she wants. She doesn't get to tell me the right way to achieve that, although I'm happy to discuss it and explain what I would do.
__________________
"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon Last edited by Howard Klepper; 09-01-2017 at 11:39 AM.
|
|
#5
09-01-2017, 01:30 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
For hacks like me , operating far below the rarefied atmosphere of high end custom builders, it can and does become, believe it or not , a question of what the customer can afford. Most of the set-ups I do are corrections of the atrocious set-ups to be found on many Pac-rim imports, and purchasers of these guitars (many of them young students) are by definition not in a financial position to afford all the bells and whistles which can go into transforming a guitar into a "dream to play" instrument. So if I can help her to master a barre chord in first position by spending three (sic) minutes getting the fret slots correct, and another three (sic) minutes sanding the base of the saddle to get the E-e heights correct ... my journey has not been in vain. In later years, when she is famous, and can afford a hand-built guitar, then we will talk real money , and proper set-ups (which IMO most of the hand-built guitars I have played still need).
|
|
#6
09-01-2017, 02:19 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I meant nothing elaborate, Murray. I don't even see much need for setting individual string heights at the saddle. I mean that I would not say whether I would take .010" or .020" off the bottom of the saddle before I see the SM's guitar. The relief on the Collings sounds high, but perhaps not for how he plays. No information on neck angle and bridge height; none about any high or low frets; none about the nut slots; none about the radius of the saddle top, or the intonation.
So I answered SM's question: what would I do if someone said he just needs .010" off the bottom of the saddle?
__________________
"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon
|
|
#7
09-01-2017, 03:48 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
#8
09-01-2017, 06:15 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Ideally I like to see the person play, how they strum, finger pick, generally play, allows me to estimate the relief they require in the neck. I then check nut height, set the relief, sight the neck, check for high frets, check saddle profile, from here I measure action height at the 12th and subject to how much saddle protrusion I have from the bridge I remove material from the base of the saddle. Steve
__________________
Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE
|
