Considering X20 and questions

[L3stat]

Hi all, I've been following the Emerald threads here (thanks for all that!) with interest, and am considering ordering an X20. Primarily to replace a Martin OM42 that is too ornate and makes me feel pressured just handling it. Also, I live in the tropics with high humidity, CF guitars would be perfect. My OM42 spends almost all the time in a guitar-size dry cab, not exactly grab and go. I mostly play fingerstyle and strum/picking accompaniments for vocal work, so an OM in terms of volume and balance would be great.

I currently have a pre-Peavey CA GX in my possession but need to return it soon. Over the short course of last 2-3 weeks I've had it, I've probably played it more than the OM42 over the last 2-3 years. Definitely more "focused" and less open sounding, different but not in a bad way and I think I'm adaptable, but I found the bass lacking. Was going to try light-medium strings but I'll need to return the guitar soon. With no easy way of trying an X20 in person, how would you say that compares to a GX?

Emeralds rarely come up used and not especially where I am in the world so I'm going to have to order one. Which is a bit of a struggle because I'd like to be able to return it if I really can't bond with it, but yet would like some customizations for a "keeper" (which can't be returned). Most of my needs could be met without customization (nut width, string spacing, scale length etc), but I would prefer less than 24 frets (probably something like Melt in the Sun's latest build), which is unknown territory for me, and I would wish to avoid anything that could be bad for playing ergonomics. Maybe locking tuners. A woody top would be a clear indulgence, I'm a sucker for cherry sunburst flame tops, or even a german/adi spruce veneer (I wonder why no one has chosen that), but that would depend on finances.

I have 2 areas where I could use some inputs. Emerald was able to answer my query partly but I still have doubts. Even though CF is a more durable material, I'd like to ensure my guitars stay in great condition. I asked if Emerald slots and ramps their bridges at the factory. This is something that probably can be easily done aftermarket on a wood guitar, but when it comes to CF, I'm not sure if there are additional concerns. I recall reading that working with CF has specific health risks (due to inhaling micro carbon fiber strands), so special precautions are required. Also, to find the right luthier to do the work, I'd rather not deal with all that. I was quite specific when I asked Emerald, and sent a link (http://www.bryankimsey.com/bridges/slotted.htm) to make sure they knew what I was talking about. I got the typical short "we've got this" answer so I probed further, and it was only after probing that Emerald said they only slot the bass strings pin holes, and but still use grooved bridge pins. Which means I can't use grooveless bridge pins. Can I check if that's the case for your guitars? I haven't gotten back to Emerald since but I suppose if I insisted they could accommodate (fully slotted bridge with grooveless bridge pins). A part of me thinks I should get exactly what I want, but I do wonder if I'm being paranoid/overkill about things (maybe CF is that durable after all, and ball ends destroying CF bridge plates is impossible, for instance).

2nd area is attention to detail and build quality. This is a grey area since people have varying standards, but I have OCD (just haven't gotten it certified officially by a doctor ). My benchmark of quality is that of Suhr guitars. I've owned a few custom Suhrs which I bought used, and a new build on my own specs. Every single one was perfect in terms of build quality and finish, minus the wear and tear put on by previous owner(s), everything was aligned and perfect. To contrast that with another custom builder I've used, who couldn't install pickup rings straight and delivered a guitar with multiple defects, his excuse was "it's a handmade instrument, a couple of mm off here and there are par for the course". People seem to have generally no issue with Emerald's build quality, though there are one or two cases where Emerald messed up, but of course rectified their mistakes most adequately. What should I expect with my OCD? Even if Emerald is a stand up act, I would want to avoid shipping a guitar back and forth. Can/should I expect perfection?

Lastly, is spruce a dumb idea for a woody? Just to get the "classic" acoustic guitar vibe.

[bcopeland8900]

I ordered my custom x20 early this year and finally got my hands on it in June. No regrets. There was one of my customizations that was not clearly understood, but after having the guitar I learned the customization was not necessary. If OCD set up a call with them to make sure you are fully understood. Once I clicked go and paid the deposit there wasn't much communication until the excellent guitar arrived.

This is the best guitar I have played. My last wood guitar was a Breedlove solid wood OM sized body. The x20 is comparable in size. I play fingerstyle and play standing up as well as play percussively at times. The CF "drums" well and has good tone.

Truth be told I haven't tried the pickup yet. I swapped the LR baggs out for k and k. It just sounds so good acoustically.

I can't answer your pin question because I have a pinless bridge.

-B

[Earl49]

I recently compared my X20 to a custom shop Martin OM-28, and it shined. A friend was trying to decide which one to buy, and he ended up passing on the Martin. X20 was louder and bolder in tone, while the OM-28 sounded rather thin by comparison. With no extended experience with the CA Gx model other than brief test plays in a store, there is not much I can say about the comparative tone. CA's do get nice comments about being the woodiest sounding of all the composite guitars.

I have a custom X20-12 with only 20 frets, which is fine for me. Emerald does 24 frets because they can -- just like electric guitars -- but I don't need them, especially on a twelve string. Shortening the number of frets was a minor upcharge. If I ever were to replace my current X20 it would have two custom mods (just like my X20-12): short 24.6" scale and only 20 frets.

I don't see what advantages a slotted bridge / unslotted pins would bring here. The break angle is just fine as-is on all my Emerald guitars. Buyer's choice of course, but I've never had any desire for that detail. I can say unequivocally that if my X20 were my only guitar, I would still be happy. It does it all for me - tone, volume, comfort (those bevels) and playability. I strum with a flat pick about 30% of the time and bare-nails fingerpick about 70%. Hope this helps...

[jdinco]

Get what you want and need to make you happy. Do it right the first time, you have a lot of good input from others here that have already been down that road. I'm not familiar with the CA either, but i can tell you that I sold my OM-28 after getting my X20. No regrets. Best of luck and keep us updated!

About those wood faces. I don't know where he's getting them, but Alistair's veneers are nothing short of stunning. I have been through a lot of wooden guitars but what makes Emerald veneers different is that they reflect an age and type that you are not likely to find in a solid wood top.

I've gone the extra expense feeling that I get the best of two worlds--the durability and resonance of CF and the beauty of wood. I'm with jd; get what you want and be happy. There are not a lot of options for the kind of customization possible with Emerald and it's pretty neat to be able to co-design your own guitar.

[Melt in the Sun]

Pretty sure this is the source they use:
https://www.certainlywood.com/woodmenu.php

Actually, I'm sure of it. My guitar was built from one of the sheets at the bottom of this page:
https://www.certainlywood.com/images...BONY%2018024-1

[GuitarLuva]

The X20 is a good all around guitar and yes I have one and like it. I haven't played a pre-peavey CA guitar but my local music store has a 2018 CA GX and I must say tonally it's the best sounding guitar they currently have in the store IMO. I prefer its tone to the X20 as well. Emerald is great for the custom options though which is a huge selling point for them.

[L3stat]

Thanks guys, for your valuable comments!

Regarding the slotted bridge (ramping less important from a durability standpoint), I'm no expert but basically the literature says the issue is compounded by sloppy guitar making where the manufacturer uses tapered bridge pins in straight drilled bridge holes, skipping the reaming step (Martin is guilty of this as well for most of their production guitars). When the pin is snug in the hole, there's a gap between the pin and the edge of the hole at the bridge plate side. The ball ends invariably wedge themselves there and eat away at the edge. Over time (usually a long time) this leads to the hole getting larger and larger, and encourages the ball ends to eat their way up the bridge pin hole. They also put a sideways force on the bridge pins. Which is why old guitars tend to have bridge pins that bend away from the grooves. Maybe it's an issue that won't materialize for a long time and so it shouldn't matter, but to me that's bad design and sloppy work. Martin guitars exhibit this, my OM42 has it and I think it's an expensive guitar, maybe only their Authentics gets properly reamed tapered holes. Collings, I believe, ship all their guitars with slotted bridges and grooveless bridge pins. Point well noted, I should insist on what I want since this is "fundamental" to me.

bcopeland8900, I went to read your build thread again, that's a very nice touch on the fretboard. The customization you wanted that was eventually not done was deleting 2 frets? Are you used to the 24 frets now, which is why you say that was not necessary? I don't spend much time above the 15 fret. But I also don't have much experience with acoustics with cutaways, which I suppose will facilitate playing on higher frets. Maybe the 24 fret fretboard will go well with a cutaway but I suppose deleting 2 won't hurt. I'll probably steal Melt in the Sun's design, AND knock off 2 frets: https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...9&postcount=39

Just add, pickups wise I rarely play amplified and don't want to deal with batteries. For optionality I suppose the K&K pure mini SBT will be a good choice for those rare times I want/need to plug it in.

Ok, I'm really leaning towards the woody now...

[bcopeland8900]

Correct. The fretboard customization ended as an addition on the fretboard vs a reduction of the frets on the low strings.

The result (which is great and I don't hit my thumb for fingerpicking) is attached as a pic.

...and I really like the embellishment I ended up with.

It makes me wonder if Emerald "corrected" my customization for me. I guess I will never know.

[Melt in the Sun]

Just had my pins out last night and they are as Emerald told you - holes are not slotted, pins are, and the ramping is minimal.

That being said, if you ask for it I don't see why they wouldn't do it for you - it is a minimal change compared to other things they do. I understand not wanting to deal with cutting carbon fiber later.

I've never owned a Suhr but even on my new X20 there are imperfections. They are not big, not visible from more than a foot away, and can't be felt with my hands, but they are there. That may be relevant to you.

[L3stat]

Just a quick update. I was busy for the past month or so but that gave me downtime to consider and decide that I actually need an X-30. Emerald will slot the bridge and use unslotted bridge pins on my build. I do have X-30 questions, but probably better to ride on other threads or to start a new one.

[kramster]

Originally Posted by L3stat

Just a quick update. I was busy for the past month or so but that gave me downtime to consider and decide that I actually need an X-30. Emerald will slot the bridge and use unslotted bridge pins on my build. I do have X-30 questions, but probably better to ride on other threads or to start a new one.

Nice..yes you NEED one and the slotted bridge ..very nice!